I'm not 100% sure, but it looks like it. If it doesn't work, I'll swap it for LCD or LED.
There is only one way to find out š. I'll post updates here once I know!
You welcome! Take your time, let the project becomes part of you day by day, don't force things and above all read the build guide over and over until you're capable of building this amp simply in your mind. Ask for help on the forum everytime you'll need: many people will help you! You'll know when time will come to start things. Just remember: carpe diem! You won't regret!
Gaetano.
Please show a pic of the heatsinks. Do you have a D-150A schematics, or do you know the supply rail voltages at least?
Best regards!
Best regards!
Power rails are +-45 vdc
http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10007/Crown D150A Service Manual_Complete.pdf
http://akdatabase.org/AKview/albums/userpics/10007/Crown D150A Service Manual_Complete.pdf
@THEIZ
I would not build the Badger or the Wolverine as first time SS amp build. They are not simple amps. I would consider the Pass Labs A40 or the AB100. If you want to go with AB100 I have some boards you can have.
I would not build the Badger or the Wolverine as first time SS amp build. They are not simple amps. I would consider the Pass Labs A40 or the AB100. If you want to go with AB100 I have some boards you can have.
I would second the AB100, it puts out well over 100watts into 8ohms cleanly. I'm using mine as a garage amp and it gets abused.
Pass AB100 has all components for the amp on one board per/Ch including power supply caps. All I did was add Bridge rectifier on each heatsink and feed AC from remote transformer. Very clean and simple amp to build. Boards are screaming your name.
Badger is easy , maybe 1.5 times the parts of that AB100. Way more power and just a better design.
Wolverine IS kind of sophisticated. But that is because it is a EF3 PPM amp with 4 pair (500W) output.
BUT ... the wolverine is split in two. You can run the output stage independently (modular).
The documentation makes either much more easy than when I had to research assorted internet designs and
hack layouts 13 years ago when I started out !!
Wolverine IS kind of sophisticated. But that is because it is a EF3 PPM amp with 4 pair (500W) output.
BUT ... the wolverine is split in two. You can run the output stage independently (modular).
The documentation makes either much more easy than when I had to research assorted internet designs and
hack layouts 13 years ago when I started out !!
...but where to find now? It appears to be scattered around here or eveb disappeared since the forum software update some years ago. Unfortunaltey I missed to download the most recentbuild guide version.
Best regards!
Pay attention to some discrepancy between the BOM I posted and the schematic, because on its 2.5.4 version there are some minor changes which improve the amp stability.
Gaetano.
PS: I would strongly recommend you to rather build the Wolverine!
Gaetano.
PS: I would strongly recommend you to rather build the Wolverine!
I have built all three and agree with @ostripper, in order of complexity, AB100, Badger, then Wolverine. I am currently using all three. Stereo Badger for bass crossed at 200Hz and mono block Wolverines for treble from 200Hz up. I'm using the AB100 in my garage and it gets abused. All three sound good.
I have decided to start with a Salas UFSP phono preamp first. As my first solid state amp build.
After that i will see further. I'm now thinking of doing an AB100 after that with a good PSU and chassis, so i can later swap boards out with wolverine boards if wanted.
After that i will see further. I'm now thinking of doing an AB100 after that with a good PSU and chassis, so i can later swap boards out with wolverine boards if wanted.
Woo Hoo finished my build of my badger boards last night i used MPSA18 from Mouser central semi tin leads for LTP. I cannot say enough good about these transistors they measured almost 700 hfe across all 20 pieces i bought was able to get 7 matched pairs FROM 20 PIECES my dc offset was nothing on both boards barely had to move trim to get to 0 and rock solid no jumping around i used my hp DC supply with current limiting set to 2 amps at 50vdc both boards dialed in fast using the 5U aluminum heatsinks i turned bias up to 40mA and they did not get warm definitely enough heatsink for 4281 and 4302 i used the updated BOM and its a winner i will finish dc protect power supply and soft start module and post some pics this build is very straight forward i had no mis haps the yageo resistors on BOM worked great they are a tight fit but that is the way to get best connect least resistance just clean boards up with 91 percent IPA put a new tip in your iron and enjoy the Build
Would this amp be suitable for a bass guitar amplifier? Some have recommended the Wolverine, but this appears to be a much simpler build and I'm a newbie. I'm not sure whether soft clipping can be added into the design but I guess this could be done before the input section with a simple diode pair to ground or some other arrangement (as long as it is transparent up to, say, -6dB below maximum).
A musical instrument amplifier needs to be safe under any condition, including a shorted speaker output. The Honeybadger doesn't feature safety protections, hence isn't the first choice.
Best regards!
Best regards!
Lots of MI amps do not have protections. Historically, MI amps were known to kill their users š still, shorted speaker outputs are a very rare occurrence.
