I wouldn't trust a nylon bolt to hold the weight of a transformer. It'll shear off with any sort of impact. As long as you don't have a complete electrical connection around the whole transformer you are good.
You don't.
You buy the PCBs from the diyAudio store. I hope they have them in stock.
I have a question about C2. the BOM and build guide says 270pF polystyrene cap.
But i can only find 220pF and 330pF of polyester, polystyrene and of polypropylene. the only ones i can find in 270pF is mica. so how crucial is this value? or is it a typo?
PS: my shopping cart is at RSonline, so i will not order just that one part from mouser or digi key.
But i can only find 220pF and 330pF of polyester, polystyrene and of polypropylene. the only ones i can find in 270pF is mica. so how crucial is this value? or is it a typo?
PS: my shopping cart is at RSonline, so i will not order just that one part from mouser or digi key.
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Hi AudioSan,
Buy some loose tolerance 330pF and test them to see if you get a value closer to 270 pF There is no point in buying almost exactly the wrong value in a close tolerance part. Polystyrene or polypropylene would be fine, avoid the others you have listed.
Another option, do they have a 270 pF in a ceramic capacitor? As long as it is C0G or NP0, it will sound good.
-Chris
Buy some loose tolerance 330pF and test them to see if you get a value closer to 270 pF There is no point in buying almost exactly the wrong value in a close tolerance part. Polystyrene or polypropylene would be fine, avoid the others you have listed.
Another option, do they have a 270 pF in a ceramic capacitor? As long as it is C0G or NP0, it will sound good.
-Chris
I got a hold of some Wima polypropylene caps. I'm looking forward to the day all of this expenses are done. total build cost for this amp is about $2200.
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Why? I'd also regard a mica cap as appropriate, at least as far as it fits into the PCB.
Best regards!
What supply voltage would i have to run to hit 200-210W into 8 ohms? ive been looking at these boards for a couple years now and now im getting back into it
A little late to the game, but finally bought a couple boards. I have sourced the MT-200 Sankens and am curious which drivers are recommended for those outputs? I'm putting together my Mouser order!
Audio driver transistors 2SC4793 / 2SA1837 are liked but hard to find (digikey US has them). There are also Sanken 2SC4382 / 2SA1668 but I've not used them. MJE15032 / MJE15033 are also good and available. Personally, I find it unlikely that a difference could be detected with human ears. The Honey badger is a very flexible design and will work with many different combinations.
I've started installing resistors and found a difference between the v2.2 schematic and the v2.4 schematic. R26 is shown as 100r on v2.2 and it is shown as 10r on version 2.4. I wouldn't be asking but R27 is shown as 68r on v2.2 and 82r on v2.4. Also R23 is shown as 33r on v2.2 and 47r on v2.4. Which is correct, or are they both right, if so what is the change doing so I can make a decision on which way to go.