A similar blameless (the next generation) is next on the ...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/248105-slewmaster-cfa-vs-vfa-rumble.html
All will be worked out in the next week or so. 🙂
OS
You don't need no 4-5 pairs.
Buy 3 pair MG9410/6330 ... use 80V rails , and the stock badger
is a 400W BEAST !
PS -I would also run the VAS with 56R (10ma CCS).
OS
Attachments
Hi gut,I have some question.
T finish other PCB .
DC offset about 30~50mV,and R14 is 8.25V.
After I try to bias of R30.
I turn on about 270 ohm(measure) .
Bias is 0 mV.Is it normal???
T finish other PCB .
DC offset about 30~50mV,and R14 is 8.25V.
After I try to bias of R30.
I turn on about 270 ohm(measure) .
Bias is 0 mV.Is it normal???
Value of R27
Just to make sure I have understood this correctly - the value of R27 is 56R if you increase the output power of the amp. In "normal mode" the value is 68 -100R. Is this correct?
Regards
Just to make sure I have understood this correctly - the value of R27 is 56R if you increase the output power of the amp. In "normal mode" the value is 68 -100R. Is this correct?
Regards
ostripper,
Could you paste here HB circuit diagram showing DC voltages in all important points for rail voltages of your HB? What is voltage drop across Q7, Q10 or Q12?
Thanks,
Could you paste here HB circuit diagram showing DC voltages in all important points for rail voltages of your HB? What is voltage drop across Q7, Q10 or Q12?
Thanks,
56R set the VAS CCS for 11ma ... this may make the EF2 OP stage less susceptible to "droop" with low Z loads or facilitate using lower Hfe outputs
(MJL21193/4 ). The bias trimmer should "range" all the below currents.
This will , however.. increase heat and change the bias setting of the Vbe.
It will not "increase power" by itself , just change the electrical characteristics of the VAS/CCS.
56R= 11ma 68=8.8 82= 7.5 100= 6.3
Schema below with V/I measured at 60V rails. 🙂
OS
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OS not only are you a great amp designer but you’re willing to assist others.
Big thanks from all of us who appreciate your work!
Big thanks from all of us who appreciate your work!
I don't know about great ....
Doug Self ,Malcolm Hawksford .. that's great !
But .. when I started , Andy C. and others were very helpful indeed.
Bob Cordell still explains to us "unwashed masses" everyday in easy
to understand terminology.
We are indeed fortunate to have DIYA as a resource. 🙂
OS
Kudos!
Just want to jump in and 2nd that.
I finished my HB build about 8 months ago now but still follow this thread to see what others are up to. My Honeybadger gets used for several hours most days, often at a slightly obscene volume levels and for a wide variety of music from classical through to jazz, blues and rock. I gotta say it rocks! Brilliant clarity, low end grunt and that wonderful, airy soundstage. It never ceases to put a grin on my face! Kudos to Ostripper!🙂
Just want to jump in and 2nd that.
I finished my HB build about 8 months ago now but still follow this thread to see what others are up to. My Honeybadger gets used for several hours most days, often at a slightly obscene volume levels and for a wide variety of music from classical through to jazz, blues and rock. I gotta say it rocks! Brilliant clarity, low end grunt and that wonderful, airy soundstage. It never ceases to put a grin on my face! Kudos to Ostripper!🙂
Can someone confirm that 0V and IN on the lower right side of the board is my RCA input from pre-amp and OUTPUT and SPK/GND is the output for the speaker? I've gone through the build and setup of R17/R7/R30, everything looks correct, yet I only hear very faint sound from my speaker if I turn the pre-amp to nearly full volume.
Confirmed !
"everything looks correct" ? 7-8 V across R14 ? 0V at output ?
30mv (or close) between TP 1/2 (or...15mv between tp1/2 and 0V)?
Photo's + more details = more ideas to come to a resolution. 😀
OS
yes, yes, and yes..
please excuse my solution to not having the right size fuses, they are 4A 250V..
i've also checked for any shorting on Q13-21, all good. i have nylon bushings in the mail but that keratherm sheet is doing its job
specifically, 8.24v on r14, 0.01-2mv or so at output, 28-30mv (depending on temp) between TP 1/2
Make sure hot and ground aren't reversed on the RCAs. Did that once it drove me nuts searching.
Just tried turning it around, made no difference. Maybe I need to ground my boards better?
I get some static and some hum if I touch the input. the jumper isn't bridged, so it looks like my cap isn't wired up!
can i hook this up and get going or will I need to go over all of the other trimmers again?
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