Given the OP desires, an Omni might be the ticket.
Omnidirectional speakers
Or Linkwitzs' Pluto
Pluto introduction
Omnidirectional speakers
Or Linkwitzs' Pluto
Pluto introduction
These drive units are fully capable of achieving what you desire, assuming x/o, cabinet and fully functioning drivers (factory specs) are joined harmoniously. Check tweeter performance for any possible deterioration caused by dried up ferrofluid.
I have designed long time ago a 2 way, 19w38 and D28/2 in a larger vented cabinet and it performed superbly. Great detail resolution.
How can I check that ferrofluid tweeter is OK ? And what about crossover caps ? If there are elyts they can be dried too after 25 ys (?)
Maybe amp is main problem and new one would make things better. Maybe you are right and first step should be to buy PM7000N and test how performs with old speakers ... If not I can seek for another speakers (some solutions will be excluded - miniDSP, actives, but maybe it's most logic way to go).
But I have to say I didn't really like high mids on those speakers even they were new - there has been something unpleasant in bright sound of violin ot tenor sax ... I doubt it was amp.
Maybe amp is main problem and new one would make things better. Maybe you are right and first step should be to buy PM7000N and test how performs with old speakers ... If not I can seek for another speakers (some solutions will be excluded - miniDSP, actives, but maybe it's most logic way to go).
But I have to say I didn't really like high mids on those speakers even they were new - there has been something unpleasant in bright sound of violin ot tenor sax ... I doubt it was amp.
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I've been trying to get a hi fi to sound good at low volumes for over ten years and the biggest improvement has been going to class d from a nad 3020, a good amp but I think it needs a big room and decent volume to shine. Directional speakers ( horns ) seem to preserve the dynamics at low volumes, but omnis still fill the room with sound at low volumes. You can get a PAM amp board with volume control on Amazon for £3.00, if you don't like it it's no great loss.
the loudness function on old amps had a purpose. you need boosted bass and boosted treble. speakers that measure flat are not necessarely good at low volumes because of how the ear works.
Besides, the recordings we listen to are all mixed at a reference SPL at the studios - 85dB for theatrical sound mix, 75dB for nearfield (bluray/DVD). Whenever playback deviates from these levels (say 60dB), nothing on that recording sounds the same anymore. Now bring another 20-30dB of ambient noise into the picture, you can already see what you're left with.
The loud / soft problem that most people complain about is just about dynamic range and sound reference levels.
The loud / soft problem that most people complain about is just about dynamic range and sound reference levels.
Measurements, measurements... Old ferrofluid is dry. And a reasonable LCR meter is not that expensive (e.g. Uni-T)
Alternatively, the electrolytic capacitors may also be replaced by polypropylene ones, using the money set aside for the LCR meter. 🙂
If it's the case this old type of tweeter is not available. I have asked Dynaudio few years ago - they answered there is no replacement and they told me to forgot and buy a new speakers instead.
I owned the Dynaudio Audience 50 and Contour 1.3se. They had the most dull sound in the midrange of any speakers I've owned. Horrible speakers IMO. My old budget Kef Coda 8 were far, far better.
Something like this = nearfield listening seems to be solution ?
The near field listening chair | The Rational Audiophile
But it needs subwoofers. I know subs are not commonly accepted for stereo but maybe they are the easisest and best solution of low volume nearfield listening ? They are giving possibility to set bass volume (loudness) and to be positioned to to avoid room acoustic problems much easier than FR loudspeakers ?
The near field listening chair | The Rational Audiophile
But it needs subwoofers. I know subs are not commonly accepted for stereo but maybe they are the easisest and best solution of low volume nearfield listening ? They are giving possibility to set bass volume (loudness) and to be positioned to to avoid room acoustic problems much easier than FR loudspeakers ?
How do you know if they have to be replaced then? A good enough LCR-meter goes for €35-40. And I might add that a cheap audio interface, some wire and clips, a PC and the ARTA app might even be more versatile.
The failure of electrolytics is imminent, may not be today, maybe tomorrow. I'd be ready with PP already. No offence to the LCR idea.
Also, electrolytic is not at all the preferred type of capacitor for linear AC applications. Even motor capacitors are considered alright for audio and they're not electrolytic but MPP-SH.
Also, electrolytic is not at all the preferred type of capacitor for linear AC applications. Even motor capacitors are considered alright for audio and they're not electrolytic but MPP-SH.
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Replacing ferrofluid can be done. Over here resellers do offer DIY ferrofluid kits. Alternatively one could remove the stuff altogether, be it that the crossover has to be redone.
Someone on our local forum checked the caps on a KEF 104/2 more than 30 years old. All caps were within 5%...
Yes, but I just wrote 'imminent'.
EDIT: Just search the internet for electrolytic capacitor reliability. They're also not very linear.
EDIT: Just search the internet for electrolytic capacitor reliability. They're also not very linear.
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