A good single driver box. What are size & budget?
Not familiar with the amp, but first thot is boring class AB. Marantz does make some good stuff
dave
Not familiar with the amp, but first thot is boring class AB. Marantz does make some good stuff
dave
Long ago I read an article about tests showing that BR works only best at a certain SPL level. Don't know if that is still the case but logics tell me that it might well apply, at least to a certain extend.
Similarly sealed and acoustic enclosure means two different enclosures: In acoustic the driver relies on the compression of the air inside the box and not purely on the driver's characteristics.
I agree with some earlier postings on simple two way but differ on using a simple crossover: A crossover must be designed to minimize the phase shift, iirc a shift of less than 40 degrees is not noticeable and has to be as close as possible to zero in the crossover range. Having the two drivers connected out of phase is a no-no in my book.
In contrast to "more power is good" I'm in the camp of SE tube amplifiers but it has to be an extreemly good one that also has smooth overload and not the harsh clipping of solid state. FWIW I normally listen at output levels of 30mW -200mW average (depending on the mood) in near field listening (approx 2 feet).
Similarly sealed and acoustic enclosure means two different enclosures: In acoustic the driver relies on the compression of the air inside the box and not purely on the driver's characteristics.
I agree with some earlier postings on simple two way but differ on using a simple crossover: A crossover must be designed to minimize the phase shift, iirc a shift of less than 40 degrees is not noticeable and has to be as close as possible to zero in the crossover range. Having the two drivers connected out of phase is a no-no in my book.
In contrast to "more power is good" I'm in the camp of SE tube amplifiers but it has to be an extreemly good one that also has smooth overload and not the harsh clipping of solid state. FWIW I normally listen at output levels of 30mW -200mW average (depending on the mood) in near field listening (approx 2 feet).
Could we have more details on this system? A picture maybe? I am very interested in running standard speakers, bookshelf and floor standers using low watt amplifiers such as the 8002D based Bluetooth speaker output.
See my thread: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...d-bluetooth-speaker-unit.393693/#post-7221992
What physical phenomena is infinitely extensible without stuff eventually squirting out sideways?
That comes from what an ME at Intel told me - they use so much force to hold down that chip in its socket, they actually get significant orthogonal forces to deal with.
Squeeze anything hard enough, some of it's going to find a way out - maybe in a quite unsavory way.
When you mention High Quality listening to music, this is music that has been anyway mixed at 80 dB measured at the speakers on the recording control room walls, which means it has already been mixed or equalized according to the Fletcher-Munson effect. Presumably all instruments are heard in the proportions that the recording engineer wanted to hear? Have a look at the studio monitors here:
http://www.brothersgibb.org/reports-a-visit-to-criteria-studios.html
So if you listen at 70 dB like I do, you only have to use the equalizer to make up the loudness level the difference between the 70 dB and the 80 dB F-M curves, right?
I use my equalizer so that all instruments can be heard, and sound as close to the original as possible, and to match the sound I hear from a decent quality headphones - the bass and clarity. There seems to be a minimum level of quality, after that it is all how the Hi-Fi system interprets it. Can you listen to music without modifying it in some way from the "original"? Maybe that is not the point.
http://www.brothersgibb.org/reports-a-visit-to-criteria-studios.html
So if you listen at 70 dB like I do, you only have to use the equalizer to make up the loudness level the difference between the 70 dB and the 80 dB F-M curves, right?
I use my equalizer so that all instruments can be heard, and sound as close to the original as possible, and to match the sound I hear from a decent quality headphones - the bass and clarity. There seems to be a minimum level of quality, after that it is all how the Hi-Fi system interprets it. Can you listen to music without modifying it in some way from the "original"? Maybe that is not the point.