One my my caps had a very small "ding" which I decided to accept. Your has a larger "ding" but cap probably measures ok. But I would also decide to get a new one in your case.
Difficult to know if the foils inside the cap is affected.
Difficult to know if the foils inside the cap is affected.
Last edited by a moderator:
It is designed to run at 0.1 - 0.3 W average and 5W peak or so......same like a small 300B SET amp. I may not have crossed the 1W output using this amp yet.....
If you need 2-3W average this it not the right amp.....then M2X will be a better choice.
If you need 2-3W average this it not the right amp.....then M2X will be a better choice.
I guess you do know what distorsion percentage means from a physical POV and if so you may want to look at the distorsion profile posted here as... an overall percentage figure means NOTHING (unless silly high figures of course) re sound quality.
On another topic, many people have no clue where SINAD came historicaly from (a long time ago, nothing to do with a popular (made) forum) and still though believe it is a nice indicator to overall sound quality or even use it to rank audio devices... but I digress.
Long story short, if you know all this you wouldn't probably post... and hence you do post, as a reply I would humbly say there is nothing to worry about as the bespoken distorsions are in fact a well mastered and a wanted sonic signature with a dedicated H2 and H3 profile... that suits your brains/ears in a full home HIFI system. The rest, the "distorsion part" that is not wanted, being negligeably low by any standard (eg noise and Hx with x>3) if you look at detailled graphs.
Having said all that, I don't like it too spicy and as all this wanted and unwanted "distorsion" grows quickly with power, I am too on Meper's side and consider this amp as an excellent 2W amp for loads >4R... with some reserves should you really need them for this "loads / LS"
Read this amp will give its best only with efficient and stable speakers (efficiency and impedance variations and modulus)... but then it is likely to be excellent to your ears / brain. Coming from F1, I would say "a very sharp set up that suits the very best pro drivers ...and certainly undrivable for the average Joe LOL".
Chose your speakers carefully, I know this is rather the other way round usualy... but some LS are all about their concept, here the amp is built around a concept IMHO...
Enjoy music
Claude
On another topic, many people have no clue where SINAD came historicaly from (a long time ago, nothing to do with a popular (made) forum) and still though believe it is a nice indicator to overall sound quality or even use it to rank audio devices... but I digress.
Long story short, if you know all this you wouldn't probably post... and hence you do post, as a reply I would humbly say there is nothing to worry about as the bespoken distorsions are in fact a well mastered and a wanted sonic signature with a dedicated H2 and H3 profile... that suits your brains/ears in a full home HIFI system. The rest, the "distorsion part" that is not wanted, being negligeably low by any standard (eg noise and Hx with x>3) if you look at detailled graphs.
Having said all that, I don't like it too spicy and as all this wanted and unwanted "distorsion" grows quickly with power, I am too on Meper's side and consider this amp as an excellent 2W amp for loads >4R... with some reserves should you really need them for this "loads / LS"
Read this amp will give its best only with efficient and stable speakers (efficiency and impedance variations and modulus)... but then it is likely to be excellent to your ears / brain. Coming from F1, I would say "a very sharp set up that suits the very best pro drivers ...and certainly undrivable for the average Joe LOL".
Chose your speakers carefully, I know this is rather the other way round usualy... but some LS are all about their concept, here the amp is built around a concept IMHO...
Enjoy music
Claude
i had a 0.01 distorsion Amp one time , a Godlmund MIMESIS 29 , couldn't believe a fancy amplifier like that could sound so Bad.. 😀
Yes, you are reading that correctly. Does that answer your question?
Or was that rhetorical?
As published, the F3 and F5 have same 0.01 number, I'd be seriously shocked if they sound the same. And the current F8 is 0.02, would anyone guess twice as good or worse? 😛
Can not wait to see Pass version of twin engine F15 Eagle. My guess would be singleton input a'la F8 with positive feedback a'la F7 and unobtanium power output FET probably LDMOS or GaN SIT. Any bookie taking bets? 😀
well
we can always count on Wakooest from Pa
but, if anything demands complexity usually seen in Babelfishes, be sure that Pass will pass that
we can always count on Wakooest from Pa
but, if anything demands complexity usually seen in Babelfishes, be sure that Pass will pass that
Have you read Papa's paper?
It is inside, 330K is the answer (with the standard front end), among other very interesting things
Claude
It is inside, 330K is the answer (with the standard front end), among other very interesting things
Claude
Is it possible to lower input impedance.
Yeah had seen that but read it to be output impedance. And, is it possible to bring that input impedance to 47k, so I could use my Vandersteen sw which I have for a hp filter for such an impedance? Thanks?
Yeah had seen that but read it to be output impedance. And, is it possible to bring that input impedance to 47k, so I could use my Vandersteen sw which I have for a hp filter for such an impedance? Thanks?
#80 Is ALIVE
Yes #80 is alive and by luck, it was my 2nd choice # of the lot. First off - thank you to Mr Pass for making this project a success! My wife said, "What? You only spent 2 days building..." meaning the project was a breeze. Coming from a background of making everything from scratch (such as the chassis), I can't stress how much easier it is to finish an amp when all the parts are there.
Some construction notes:
1) Locally, I could not find the wee nuts for the bolts that hold the power socket so I had to take matters into my own hands 😀 Instead of mounting the socket on the rear inside panel, I wanted a different look ; I brought out the drill bits. The holes were enlarged to 4.5mm and one must be careful in position of drilling (not as simple as to just drill the hole bigger as both hole positions need to align with the plastic socket). Also one must also be careful with the hack saw and razor blade knife ; I had to do some fine shaving on the plastic socket. You want a flush fit so there's enough surface area for the CY glue to set.
2) I noticed many have omitted the chassis ground to the wee lugs on the power socket (which grounds back to the SMPS). I felt uneasy without it. 😱
3) I have strong preference to using solder tabs instead of the bare wire through a hole and fill it up with solder. Not only solder tabs make it easier to solder but also for removal of the wire (and you're not butchering up the board if you have to changes things). On the output stage boards i've separated the solder lugs so the low level wires are above, and the higher power wiring are on the backside. Must be from all those years building tube amps of having this approach. 😎
4) Output stage boards are centre on the heatsinks, and the front end boards are closest to the rear. You will save on wiring doing this way (or maybe not if you like bird nest soup)?
5) Zen_Mod is a Fugly guy
No comments on the sound yet as I need some time for a proper evaluation. My chosen speakers are Klipschorns (circa 2002) and my trusty ol' BLS Preamp which has gruntiful of gain. Dialing in the 20V was easy as pie and nothing compared to the CSX1 voltage adjustments on my other amp.
Yes #80 is alive and by luck, it was my 2nd choice # of the lot. First off - thank you to Mr Pass for making this project a success! My wife said, "What? You only spent 2 days building..." meaning the project was a breeze. Coming from a background of making everything from scratch (such as the chassis), I can't stress how much easier it is to finish an amp when all the parts are there.
Some construction notes:
1) Locally, I could not find the wee nuts for the bolts that hold the power socket so I had to take matters into my own hands 😀 Instead of mounting the socket on the rear inside panel, I wanted a different look ; I brought out the drill bits. The holes were enlarged to 4.5mm and one must be careful in position of drilling (not as simple as to just drill the hole bigger as both hole positions need to align with the plastic socket). Also one must also be careful with the hack saw and razor blade knife ; I had to do some fine shaving on the plastic socket. You want a flush fit so there's enough surface area for the CY glue to set.
2) I noticed many have omitted the chassis ground to the wee lugs on the power socket (which grounds back to the SMPS). I felt uneasy without it. 😱
3) I have strong preference to using solder tabs instead of the bare wire through a hole and fill it up with solder. Not only solder tabs make it easier to solder but also for removal of the wire (and you're not butchering up the board if you have to changes things). On the output stage boards i've separated the solder lugs so the low level wires are above, and the higher power wiring are on the backside. Must be from all those years building tube amps of having this approach. 😎
4) Output stage boards are centre on the heatsinks, and the front end boards are closest to the rear. You will save on wiring doing this way (or maybe not if you like bird nest soup)?
5) Zen_Mod is a Fugly guy
No comments on the sound yet as I need some time for a proper evaluation. My chosen speakers are Klipschorns (circa 2002) and my trusty ol' BLS Preamp which has gruntiful of gain. Dialing in the 20V was easy as pie and nothing compared to the CSX1 voltage adjustments on my other amp.
Whaou, that looks nice... bloody hell, when I get started (now that the parts have just arrived) I won't post pix of my build: to ashame...
Is that Ok if I take pix of the packaging of the kits? No one did it so far 🙂
Is that Ok if I take pix of the packaging of the kits? No one did it so far 🙂
