I have a plan for an acrylic dust cover (like for turntables). It should reduce the former problem (and partially the latter) while keeping the look.
And in the plate below or it won’t work.
These heatsinks work by convection, the air next to them is heated, it rises, and then replaced by cooler air coming in from the bottom.
I think it looks great. I would think sinks of that size would take care the dissiption no matter what, since this is the mini. But drilling holes will of course ensure circulation and keep things cooler. Great work on the chassis!! Perforated top plate is a good idea. A few holes under too, and you’ve got circulation.
Regards,
Andy
Is that really nescessary? A bunch of mid to high biased A/B designs put the sinks inside, and this is the mini…
But maybe those A/B’s are notoriously unreliable. I know my KAV300iL was, but that was rated 200 watts into 8 ohms, almost with no sinks at all. So things got pretty hot, and proportionally distorted, to say the least. But still, aren’t his sinks OK for the mini with a perforated top and a drilled bottom plate?
I like the wood 🙂
Last edited:
Finally mine is running! I had an issue with a faulty harris irf9520 but now is running! Thank you all for support and for this project!
Drilled ventilation holes under the sinks, ready to assemble. The top cover plate will be cut around the heatsinks. Quite happy how it turned out given the fact it’s an old project chassis colllecting dust that was re-purposed for the ACA mini. Saved a few bucks!
Attachments
Last edited:
Re: BOM list
Is it worth the expenses and trouble to replace the stock parts in the signal path to more exotic audio brand?
Is it worth the expenses and trouble to replace the stock parts in the signal path to more exotic audio brand?
Build it stock and listen to it for a couple months. Then if you're still interested in swapping out parts, go right ahead. Compare the sound of the new unit to your memory of the sound of the totally stock unit.
Exotic parts will always succeed in making your wallet lighter. They may, possibly, make other changes, but much of that is rooted in confirmation bias.
That said, this is a hobby, build it however you see fit, and enjoy the process!
This is a fantastic sounding amplifier, you’ll really enjoy it.
🙂
That said, this is a hobby, build it however you see fit, and enjoy the process!
This is a fantastic sounding amplifier, you’ll really enjoy it.
🙂
I want my ACA Mini to have some confirmation bias. What caps and resistors do I need to get? 🤣
I would do comprehensive set of measurements before and after upgrading. Accompanied by listening.
hear you bro, trying to do this once.. For resistors there are lots of choice, high uF capacitors not soo much availability in this range and diameter to fit the board. Mouser or Digikey have Nichicon “audio grade” to try everything else other than standard grade caps is out of stock right now.
You picked a bad time to purchase electronic components. Everything is out of stock. Not just for you, for everybody.
You could do nothing except sit and wait 18-36 months, until the supply situation returns to normal. Purchase nothing, assemble nothing.
You could buy whatever grade components are on the shelf now, build and listen to the gear now, then upgrade later when the supply situation returns to normal.
You could design or re-design the gear now, so that it only uses components which are (a) available now, and also are (b) "more exotic audio brand" that you are comfortable using and paying for.
You could do nothing except sit and wait 18-36 months, until the supply situation returns to normal. Purchase nothing, assemble nothing.
You could buy whatever grade components are on the shelf now, build and listen to the gear now, then upgrade later when the supply situation returns to normal.
You could design or re-design the gear now, so that it only uses components which are (a) available now, and also are (b) "more exotic audio brand" that you are comfortable using and paying for.
Order of importance:
1. Design
2. Active parts
3. Passive parts
Papa gave us this and refer to #1 when you think about boutique parts.
At least do what MJ said, build and listen to it for a long time before messing with it. I do think a small linear power supply or filter for the brick WILL be noticeable. I’m going to power mine with a 6S lipo. Great thing about Lipos is that they maintain nominal voltage for a good % of their capacity.
Everything I’ve powered with lipos has been a real improvement.
1. Design
2. Active parts
3. Passive parts
Papa gave us this and refer to #1 when you think about boutique parts.
At least do what MJ said, build and listen to it for a long time before messing with it. I do think a small linear power supply or filter for the brick WILL be noticeable. I’m going to power mine with a 6S lipo. Great thing about Lipos is that they maintain nominal voltage for a good % of their capacity.
Everything I’ve powered with lipos has been a real improvement.
I highly recommend you start by ordering the completion kit from the store. It currently includes 15K NOS Panasonic caps supplied by Nelson himself. The remaining parts are high quality parts specified by him as well.
Later on if you feel the need to experiment, you can do so.