The output voltage is about 4.2Vpk-pk, check out the first page of the thread for 'scope screenshots of the output. I'll contact you about the kit when the parts arrive.
Thanks for the orders. Most of the parts have arrived, and I've got three kits ready to send. The rest of the parts are on their way and should be here tomorrow or Wednesday.
I'll contact each of you by PM to sort out postage, crystal values, etc.
I'll contact each of you by PM to sort out postage, crystal values, etc.
what source do you have?
and you connect the lock to the dac?
thanks
and you connect the lock to the dac?
thanks
Hi Anton, happy holidays.
I soldered mine with a 30watt iron with quite a large pointy tip, but I managed.
I socket-ed the IC because I didn't want to risk frying it, does it matter much?
I've had a short listen since and initially I've found that the player may be better as a player than a transport now, given that my Dac is chinese modded as per
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/186245-dac-2496-ak4393-dac-kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a.html
This needs more investigation so I'll be doing more comparisons with and without the DAC.
Probably not, my records show that Andrea didn't buy an AC kitset. Assuming that battery was a good DC supply (which it probably was), the AC kitset performance would probably be the same or very slightly worse. The differential oscillator and comparator rejects PSU noise well, and the two level regulation should cut out most PSU noise anyway.
All the components for the kitsets have now arrived.
All the components for the kitsets have now arrived.
when jitter was tested clock was powered with battery
can we see jitter level of AC pcb
This is the phase noise plot and jitter of the same oscillator AC powered.
Keep in mind that I use an LC filter after battery (10mH/15000 uF) because typically battery is noisier than AC regulated supply.
Andrea
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jeez! i need a magnifying glass, reading glasses or new eyeballs!
Yup...started the soldering today :S
Yup...started the soldering today :S
it would seem i didnt get any 3.3k resistors with my DC kit?
bom says they are req....
but the bom also says 1n4004 diode for DC kit, which i also didnt get...im assuming that is a typo? 4004 is for the AC kit??
edit: sorry....found the diode
bom says they are req....
but the bom also says 1n4004 diode for DC kit, which i also didnt get...im assuming that is a typo? 4004 is for the AC kit??
edit: sorry....found the diode
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Made a Radio Shack run...got er together and here is where I'm using it...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Sorry about this missing resistors, I can send some out to you if you'd like. The connector is an SMB type, there are plenty of cables with this connector on eBay. You can get something like this one, cut one end off, strip and break out the core and shield and solder it to the PCB pads.
Remember to keep the clock output cable as short as possible, I would flip the PCB 180°. It's much better to have a longer DC cable. It's also a good idea to twist the DC wires together.
Remember to keep the clock output cable as short as possible, I would flip the PCB 180°. It's much better to have a longer DC cable. It's also a good idea to twist the DC wires together.
Thanks...I was able to source the missing resistors by buying a couple of resistor "variety packs" from RadioShack 😉
I'll switch the PCB around today to shorten the leads. Thanks for the tip!
I'll switch the PCB around today to shorten the leads. Thanks for the tip!

There...half the length as previously wired. And twisted DC leads for noise rejection.
This'll do til I get a proper coax.
🙂
Sorry about this missing resistors, I can send some out to you if you'd like. The connector is an SMB type, there are plenty of cables with this connector on eBay. You can get something like this one, cut one end off, strip and break out the core and shield and solder it to the PCB pads.
Remember to keep the clock output cable as short as possible, I would flip the PCB 180°. It's much better to have a longer DC cable. It's also a good idea to twist the DC wires together.
50 Ohm type is what I want for this application?
Yes, but only because I supplied a 50R connector with the kit. There is no terminating resistance, so there is no proper transmission line and the characteristic impedance of the cable doesn't matter.
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