I'm going to try UCPURE for my Pi2AES but can't quite understand in which way it can be switched from stock 3,3V to 5V. In data sheet mentioned jumper settings with 21K 0603 1% and 11K 0603 1%. Does it mean I should solder two resistors in order to switch to 5V? Can I buy it in 5V form already?
thanks
thanks
Hi Eduard, thanks for the feedback. Absolutely. All good points you raise. It was good enough for me to test at the time.
In case it is of any interest to someone, I finally found out information about the Eaton balance boards and 'official' UC connection kit:
XL60 Integration kit and assembly instructions:
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...eaton-xl60-integration-kit-technical-note.pdf
XL60 Terminal connection guidelines:
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...echnical/eaton-xl60-series-technical-note.pdf
I couldn't find this info on either eaton or mouser website...so it might help somebody who is not interested in ordering from Aliexpress, which is what I ended up doing.
Best,
Crom
XL60 Integration kit and assembly instructions:
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...eaton-xl60-integration-kit-technical-note.pdf
XL60 Terminal connection guidelines:
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...echnical/eaton-xl60-series-technical-note.pdf
I couldn't find this info on either eaton or mouser website...so it might help somebody who is not interested in ordering from Aliexpress, which is what I ended up doing.
Best,
Crom
Hello,
Probably Ian has decided to downgrade his audio business on this site.
greetings, eduard
Probably Ian has decided to downgrade his audio business on this site.
greetings, eduard
@sazzz I also have a Pi2AES (for now, might sell along with other stuff to fund upgrades in other areas, long story) and my understanding is it takes 24V for its switching supply. I found a way to bypass that and power with 5V via a couple header pins (not same pins that carry 5V from Raspberry Pi) … is that what you are doing?
cheers,
Chris
cheers,
Chris
I'm not sure if this point has been discussed previously. I need a clarification regarding the activation of two UcHybrid 3.3v board with two maxwell ultra cap to put on top on LiFePO4 MKii
In the manual of the UcHybrid board i see that i've only to solder the caps on the board and to solder the two wires on the bottom of LifePO4 (respecting the battery polarity: red with positive and black with negative).
After that i can put the battery cells in the cells holders, wait 20 minutes to charge the cap and then i can turn on the LifePO4 borad upgraded and use it
Are all steps correct ?
I'm asking because I remeber that in a previous discussion a pre charge phase (using a power resistor) for the ultra cap was necessary to avoid demage at the LifePO4.
This phase is not usefull anymore ?
In the manual of the UcHybrid board i see that i've only to solder the caps on the board and to solder the two wires on the bottom of LifePO4 (respecting the battery polarity: red with positive and black with negative).
After that i can put the battery cells in the cells holders, wait 20 minutes to charge the cap and then i can turn on the LifePO4 borad upgraded and use it
Are all steps correct ?
I'm asking because I remeber that in a previous discussion a pre charge phase (using a power resistor) for the ultra cap was necessary to avoid demage at the LifePO4.
This phase is not usefull anymore ?
I've checked and the physical geometry is different.
Unfortunately in italy the ultacap seems to be sold out everywhere.
Some others different cap to suggest i can use ?
This battery powered power supply seems to be quite a cheap (well, relative) and actually superior from what i read option compared to other linear power supplys (specially for the number of rails it offers) but im wondering, it has 2x 3,3v rails for example, whats the easiest way to make one of them 1,8v for example? also the 2 adjustable rates seem to have just some pre configured (kinda odd) voltages, how we make them to the exact voltage we need? like 5v/7v/9v/12v ?
while it offers a 5v rail i read something about it not being actually fed by the batterys?
i would like to use this supply to basicly power everything i have, a raspberry pi (maybe split in 1,8v/3,3v/5v to fed them directly to the pi rails and maybe 12v because i will use the cm4 io board in the future, tho i search for a solution to basicly avoid the 12v completely since it just seems to be needed for the pcie slot) and dac
while it offers a 5v rail i read something about it not being actually fed by the batterys?
i would like to use this supply to basicly power everything i have, a raspberry pi (maybe split in 1,8v/3,3v/5v to fed them directly to the pi rails and maybe 12v because i will use the cm4 io board in the future, tho i search for a solution to basicly avoid the 12v completely since it just seems to be needed for the pcie slot) and dac
i readed a little further and as it seems the "big" battery power supply just uses a certain amount of batterys per rail, is that true? i actually thought all batterys are for all rails (which would be a bit better imo, atleast from a "how long it can survive without charging" standpoint)
and if the only solution to get other voltages is to use step down converters (the LT3045 would be a good (but quite expensive) one i think) would it then be a viable option to :
1. buy the "little 6.6v battery power supply"
2. add more batterys in parralel to each of the two batterys for higher capacity (so it can actually survive around a day without re-charging)
3. make own rails with stepdown converters (maybe galvanicly isolated with 1:1 transformers?)
4. maybe even add supercapacitors? (or buy the conditioner of ian canada and just add it once before the transformers?)
Would there be some downsides to this approach (or is this even possible, atleast i think so with my limited electronic knowledge)?
i could think of load dependent voltage drops, maybe? (tho i think the super capacitors would help greatly with that)
unfortunaly i dont see upsides for the big power supply since it just offers odd voltages without stepdown converters and the 5v rail is depentend on the actual power supply of the battery power supply and adding step down converters defeats the purpose right?
i also wonder about what read about the noise level, the LT3045 can have around 0,5uV but batterys seems to have around 2-3uV but everyone says the battery power supply is superior (or is that just in conjunction with supercapacitors which actually drop/filter noise?)
or should i just go the "normal" 230v transformer -> LT3045 route in that case because battery powered wouldnt provide any benefit in this case?
and if the only solution to get other voltages is to use step down converters (the LT3045 would be a good (but quite expensive) one i think) would it then be a viable option to :
1. buy the "little 6.6v battery power supply"
2. add more batterys in parralel to each of the two batterys for higher capacity (so it can actually survive around a day without re-charging)
3. make own rails with stepdown converters (maybe galvanicly isolated with 1:1 transformers?)
4. maybe even add supercapacitors? (or buy the conditioner of ian canada and just add it once before the transformers?)
Would there be some downsides to this approach (or is this even possible, atleast i think so with my limited electronic knowledge)?
i could think of load dependent voltage drops, maybe? (tho i think the super capacitors would help greatly with that)
unfortunaly i dont see upsides for the big power supply since it just offers odd voltages without stepdown converters and the 5v rail is depentend on the actual power supply of the battery power supply and adding step down converters defeats the purpose right?
i also wonder about what read about the noise level, the LT3045 can have around 0,5uV but batterys seems to have around 2-3uV but everyone says the battery power supply is superior (or is that just in conjunction with supercapacitors which actually drop/filter noise?)
or should i just go the "normal" 230v transformer -> LT3045 route in that case because battery powered wouldnt provide any benefit in this case?
Standard jumper wires are quite thin, but you can connect all pins (the 2 +5v and the 3 ground pins if I remember correctly) simultaneously, at least if the pi is powered separately
LifePO4 Mini problem.
Hi guys/ Ian...not sure if you are looking over us. I hope you are well. We haven't seen you on here in some time.
I finally got my new battery psus implemented. 6v6 for Andreas TWTMC-PPG and a 3v3 module for FifoPi clean side.
When I first powered up the 'full' indicators lit....seemed strange...no load.
Got them installed with their loads attached. Fed with 9VAC which actually measures 10 to 11vac.
When I powered up the system I heard a lot of relay clicking. I cant comment on the status LEDs as it was in a box.
Seemed to settle down regards relay clicking. I powered down for the evening.
Powered back up this morning and did some checks. Both full leds lit. But 3v3 pure led not lit ....noticed it is warm.
Turned off the 3v3 at the switch on the module to allow to charge despite the full led....no change.
So it will not give me a pure status. Relay, 4 rectifier diodes and the 4u7 coil are really warm...hot. especially the L and diodes.
Maybe it has toasted the relay?
Any ideas why and how to fault find.?
6v6 module seems fine.
Hi guys/ Ian...not sure if you are looking over us. I hope you are well. We haven't seen you on here in some time.
I finally got my new battery psus implemented. 6v6 for Andreas TWTMC-PPG and a 3v3 module for FifoPi clean side.
When I first powered up the 'full' indicators lit....seemed strange...no load.
Got them installed with their loads attached. Fed with 9VAC which actually measures 10 to 11vac.
When I powered up the system I heard a lot of relay clicking. I cant comment on the status LEDs as it was in a box.
Seemed to settle down regards relay clicking. I powered down for the evening.
Powered back up this morning and did some checks. Both full leds lit. But 3v3 pure led not lit ....noticed it is warm.
Turned off the 3v3 at the switch on the module to allow to charge despite the full led....no change.
So it will not give me a pure status. Relay, 4 rectifier diodes and the 4u7 coil are really warm...hot. especially the L and diodes.
Maybe it has toasted the relay?
Any ideas why and how to fault find.?
6v6 module seems fine.
Hello,
Supersurfer described some problems with relays too on his boards .
It seems a few people end up with problems and with most people everything goes smoothly.
Potential new customers will just remember the negative ones.
Me too, still dont have a sound but power supplies all work but a few weeks ago i just pulled out the power plugs of my audio gear and started reading more books. Maybe next week i will take a look at my diy audio gear again.
greetings, eduard
Supersurfer described some problems with relays too on his boards .
It seems a few people end up with problems and with most people everything goes smoothly.
Potential new customers will just remember the negative ones.
Me too, still dont have a sound but power supplies all work but a few weeks ago i just pulled out the power plugs of my audio gear and started reading more books. Maybe next week i will take a look at my diy audio gear again.
greetings, eduard
I am quite a long standing customer of Ian's. I have a lot of his gear and it ajs always been pretty faultless, and if not Ian has been exceptional in sorting any issues. So I dont have any negativity, just options for solutions.!
I hope you get yours sorted soon too.
I hope you get yours sorted soon too.
Is anyone having at hand material codes from mouser ref the batteries and battery holder for a LifePO4 mini 3.3V? thanks
Hi Ian, Hi everybody
I made a mistake. Changing a battery on my LifePO4 mkII, i inverted the polarity of the battery in the BT6 position (i saw some sparks but nothing more).
Now when I turn on the system i have the correct voltage on J1 and J2 (i'm using the system with 4 battery but i'm using only J1 and J2)
BUT
when I turn off the system and it goes in "charging" mode, the BT6 doesn't charge the battery.
All other 3 batteries are charged properly.
the problem is that if battery BT6 is below the threshold, the system charges the other batteries continuously without interrupting (and therefore overcharges them).
If I remove the battery BT6 (to try to use the system only with the other 3 battery, BT7, BT5 and BT2) the voltage meter on the board measures around 2V, and so again try to overcharge the battery.
I suppose I burned something but I don't know what.
Can you suggest me something to control or to change on the board ?
There is another way to avoid using the BT6 battery ?
Thanks in advance
Paolo
I made a mistake. Changing a battery on my LifePO4 mkII, i inverted the polarity of the battery in the BT6 position (i saw some sparks but nothing more).
Now when I turn on the system i have the correct voltage on J1 and J2 (i'm using the system with 4 battery but i'm using only J1 and J2)
BUT
when I turn off the system and it goes in "charging" mode, the BT6 doesn't charge the battery.
All other 3 batteries are charged properly.
the problem is that if battery BT6 is below the threshold, the system charges the other batteries continuously without interrupting (and therefore overcharges them).
If I remove the battery BT6 (to try to use the system only with the other 3 battery, BT7, BT5 and BT2) the voltage meter on the board measures around 2V, and so again try to overcharge the battery.
I suppose I burned something but I don't know what.
Can you suggest me something to control or to change on the board ?
There is another way to avoid using the BT6 battery ?
Thanks in advance
Paolo
Hi all
Waiting for a support may i suggest a crazy idea? Considering i'm using only two output on the lifepo4 (j1 and j2), to avoid the recharging problem may i put the battery in BT5 position connected in parallel with the BT6?
In this way when the system is ON on j1 i have two battery connected in parallel.
During the recharge phase both battery are recharged via BT5
I don't have the electric schema of the board and so i'm not sure to make a good thing or i will destroy everything
Hoping someone can answer me i salute you
Regards
Paolo
Waiting for a support may i suggest a crazy idea? Considering i'm using only two output on the lifepo4 (j1 and j2), to avoid the recharging problem may i put the battery in BT5 position connected in parallel with the BT6?
In this way when the system is ON on j1 i have two battery connected in parallel.
During the recharge phase both battery are recharged via BT5
I don't have the electric schema of the board and so i'm not sure to make a good thing or i will destroy everything
Hoping someone can answer me i salute you
Regards
Paolo