The baskets look pretty flimsy and the magnet assembly looks the same as the lower efficiency Aura i've had. If you take the approach of building up the back of th driver to streamline it, the damping will be a side effect. The basket legs won't support all that much ductseal and i wouldn't bother ther. Some of the latex paint-on damping might be a good bet here (used in boat building, i have some called SR-2000).
Now with these we have to consider the gotcha... neo motors do not tolerate heat well... so you probably don't want to impede the cooling of the motor assembly. This means leaving the motor assembly open to the air (ie duct seal in this case has a big negative). So you would need to get creative.
dave
Now with these we have to consider the gotcha... neo motors do not tolerate heat well... so you probably don't want to impede the cooling of the motor assembly. This means leaving the motor assembly open to the air (ie duct seal in this case has a big negative). So you would need to get creative.
dave
Thanks for the reply Dave. I think I'm going to just leave it be for the time being as I find they sound good right now.
Yes and I also don’t think there is any need for reinforcing the basket, colouring effects from vibration is negligible if the driver is glued hard to the baffle, but worse and detectable near x-max if only secured with screws caused from the ‘flimsy’ small flange.
b
1(1)
Attachments
Hi Dave,
Yes, also the Aura NS3-194-8E drivers are meant to be rear baffle mounted and are easily bent if applying too much of torque.
I have only measured one a 25 driver square besselarray with an accelerometer attached to the driver frames, one by one, which had this problem; all were front-mounted in separate sealed compartments with a 2 mm polyurethane gasket.
A guitarist user, who discovered this when testing, mentioned that a weird sound was appearing only at higher levels when playing chords. I first thought this could be anything but…
Borrowing his guitar-amp I found 2 of the malfunctioning driver’s spectral vibration signature differed a higher volume levels, I dismounted both and replaced with new ones.
For one driver the problem was gone but it remained for the other.
There were no air leaks but measuring from screw hole to screw hole the frame flatness with a vernier caliper, I found at most flatness differences of 3/10 of an mm for the drivers tested as faulty that were mounted in the same hole
.
When disassembling more drivers all had slightly bent frames, a 1/10 mm or so.
Later I used an adjustable torque screwdriver to avoid bending the very soft steel of the frame and by epoxy gluing the frame rim.
So far I’ve been mounting a hundred of these drivers with success and have still more than a hundred left over for future projects that I consider only mounting to the rear of any baffle and to avoid the gluing.
b
Yes, also the Aura NS3-194-8E drivers are meant to be rear baffle mounted and are easily bent if applying too much of torque.
I have only measured one a 25 driver square besselarray with an accelerometer attached to the driver frames, one by one, which had this problem; all were front-mounted in separate sealed compartments with a 2 mm polyurethane gasket.
A guitarist user, who discovered this when testing, mentioned that a weird sound was appearing only at higher levels when playing chords. I first thought this could be anything but…
Borrowing his guitar-amp I found 2 of the malfunctioning driver’s spectral vibration signature differed a higher volume levels, I dismounted both and replaced with new ones.
For one driver the problem was gone but it remained for the other.
There were no air leaks but measuring from screw hole to screw hole the frame flatness with a vernier caliper, I found at most flatness differences of 3/10 of an mm for the drivers tested as faulty that were mounted in the same hole
.
When disassembling more drivers all had slightly bent frames, a 1/10 mm or so.
Later I used an adjustable torque screwdriver to avoid bending the very soft steel of the frame and by epoxy gluing the frame rim.
So far I’ve been mounting a hundred of these drivers with success and have still more than a hundred left over for future projects that I consider only mounting to the rear of any baffle and to avoid the gluing.
b
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The 25-element besselarray again, before cabinet corners, handles and aluminium profiles were attached.
Box made of 12mm and 7 mm void free heartwood veneer of pine, harder(no splint-wood) and stiffer than of birch and the baffle is 12 mm HDF (not MDF).
b
Box made of 12mm and 7 mm void free heartwood veneer of pine, harder(no splint-wood) and stiffer than of birch and the baffle is 12 mm HDF (not MDF).
b
Attachments
Hi bjorno, that speaker obviously goes up to eleven!
Is it part of a set? How does it sound? It looks VERY impressive, how did you cut the holes for the speakers and stay that consistent?
Is it part of a set? How does it sound? It looks VERY impressive, how did you cut the holes for the speakers and stay that consistent?
I've been front mounting, back mounting sounded awful.
You'd need a very thin faceplate for it to sit properly.
I seal the frame with removable weatherstripping mentioned earlier, screw it down, and trim the excess when it dries. Don't use too much!
I haven't done anything to beef up the basket yet. it may look flimsy, but relative to driver size and watts, it's pretty strong.
You'd need a very thin faceplate for it to sit properly.
I seal the frame with removable weatherstripping mentioned earlier, screw it down, and trim the excess when it dries. Don't use too much!
I haven't done anything to beef up the basket yet. it may look flimsy, but relative to driver size and watts, it's pretty strong.
The speaker is centered 3 1/4" down from the top.
The port is centered 5 1/4" back from the face. 5 1/4 with the face off.
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=295706737&size=l
The port is centered 5 1/4" back from the face. 5 1/4 with the face off.
http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=295706737&size=l
DIY Solar Boombox
For those who may have missed it, DelSol has morphed into a solar powered boombox.
I've posted some basic instructions here -
http://www.instructables.com/id/EYASGDSF0FI3ADK/
and have a solar powered audio system gallery here -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47642593@N00/sets/72157600117133010/
For those who may have missed it, DelSol has morphed into a solar powered boombox.
I've posted some basic instructions here -
http://www.instructables.com/id/EYASGDSF0FI3ADK/
and have a solar powered audio system gallery here -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/47642593@N00/sets/72157600117133010/
Attachments
Greetings, Nice work and clever thinking. Living out here in the desert, the sun is intense and a similar solar array I have delivers an amp at over 16 volts. A cheap fix to potential over voltage problem is to use either a 12 volt zener diode or any of several three terminal regulators to keep the voltage in check. A modest 12 volt gell cell across the solar array's terminals will also do the job and provide power when the sun goes behind the clouds. Again good project.
Good listening
gofar99
Good listening
gofar99
Re: DIY Solar Boombox
Any chance that you can post more details on your boombox, especially the cabinet?
pekar said:
Any chance that you can post more details on your boombox, especially the cabinet?
Re: Re: DIY Solar Boombox
This cabinet is essentially two DelSol's turned bottom to bottom with a plate in between. Cabinet volume has been increased to accomodate the amplifier.
I might get around to providing cabinet plans eventually, but I have too much on my plate at the moment.
Probably not, but the Aura 299-015 (also on sale at PE) might!
ped said:
This cabinet is essentially two DelSol's turned bottom to bottom with a plate in between. Cabinet volume has been increased to accomodate the amplifier.
I might get around to providing cabinet plans eventually, but I have too much on my plate at the moment.
gychang said:
Probably not, but the Aura 299-015 (also on sale at PE) might!
DIY Solar Boombox
Thanks, I may just use standard DelSols and then a thin box hinged across the top to act as a flip down cover/electronics housing. In your picture gallery is a speaker using two drivers per side, could you please provide basic dimensions/porting for those? Looks like a way to squeeze a bit more bass/efficiency out of these things 😎
pekar said:
Thanks, I may just use standard DelSols and then a thin box hinged across the top to act as a flip down cover/electronics housing. In your picture gallery is a speaker using two drivers per side, could you please provide basic dimensions/porting for those? Looks like a way to squeeze a bit more bass/efficiency out of these things 😎
That was an unsuccessful experiment that eventually led to the Delsol design.
Here is what led to that two driver design-
http://www.timn8er.com/css_elf_1.htm
In the end, I decided I preferred a single driver solution.
The only application I found that got enough bass out of the W3-871 for me was Cyburg's needle which didn't lend itself to a boombox format.
Pekar
Here is what led to that two driver design-
http://www.timn8er.com/css_elf_1.htm
In the end, I decided I preferred a single driver solution.
The only application I found that got enough bass out of the W3-871 for me was Cyburg's needle which didn't lend itself to a boombox format.
Pekar