Im thinking of taking out my Aura drivers out of their towers and making a boom box! Hehe...wondering how you went about making the batteries. Where kind i find a cheap set? How long do they last? What kind of amperage do you get on average from the solar pannel? Voltage?
The amp I have does around 10 watts per channel, and is rated between 12 and 18 volts, so i think it will run fine from the panel alone, just want to have a backup battery. How do you know when they are fully charged? Sorry for the load of questions, just want to get everything right the first time... cheers
-Serg
The amp I have does around 10 watts per channel, and is rated between 12 and 18 volts, so i think it will run fine from the panel alone, just want to have a backup battery. How do you know when they are fully charged? Sorry for the load of questions, just want to get everything right the first time... cheers
-Serg
Hi Yall,
I finished the 'regular' DelSols a few days ago - here are some impressions: Slim, but present bass, a little forward with a somewhat rough high end (driven with DIY monoblocks), but despite that, they are actually very enjoyable to listen to, a very clear presentation. And they image like crazy. I definitely recommend making them. I might try measuring the frequency response and build a simple XO. Couldn't hurt, huh?
Thanks Pekar!
I finished the 'regular' DelSols a few days ago - here are some impressions: Slim, but present bass, a little forward with a somewhat rough high end (driven with DIY monoblocks), but despite that, they are actually very enjoyable to listen to, a very clear presentation. And they image like crazy. I definitely recommend making them. I might try measuring the frequency response and build a simple XO. Couldn't hurt, huh?
Thanks Pekar!
Post#97:
Yes I do and that the W3-593S also have much better FR performance.
It looks likes the drivers almost perform identical when simulating in the same DelSol box, see picture 1(1), also in a 4.325 L aperiodic box, a box I simulated optimizing the DelSol possible FR performance, see picture 2(2)
The conclusion is that TB W3-593S can also be substituted for the Aura NS3-194-8E and simulated identical with all suggestions found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=99493
I believe the W3-593S is designed generations later than the Aura NS3-194-8E and by examine the appearance and driver data, its likely that the former driver is an improved version designed by the same designer i.e. by Ben Tang.
Post#105
There is no reason way you cannot use ¾” MDF if the driver is flush mounted on the baffle but this thickness is really an overkill and you have to watch out not to restrict the driver rear airflow.
Post#106
There still a small air-leaks risk if only using gasket weather-stripping materials.
After mounting and cutting away the excesses of the gasket I found that some of the drivers had air leaks and had to be tighten further using some glue.
b
1(2)
Yes I do and that the W3-593S also have much better FR performance.
It looks likes the drivers almost perform identical when simulating in the same DelSol box, see picture 1(1), also in a 4.325 L aperiodic box, a box I simulated optimizing the DelSol possible FR performance, see picture 2(2)
The conclusion is that TB W3-593S can also be substituted for the Aura NS3-194-8E and simulated identical with all suggestions found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=99493
I believe the W3-593S is designed generations later than the Aura NS3-194-8E and by examine the appearance and driver data, its likely that the former driver is an improved version designed by the same designer i.e. by Ben Tang.
Post#105
There is no reason way you cannot use ¾” MDF if the driver is flush mounted on the baffle but this thickness is really an overkill and you have to watch out not to restrict the driver rear airflow.
Post#106
There still a small air-leaks risk if only using gasket weather-stripping materials.
After mounting and cutting away the excesses of the gasket I found that some of the drivers had air leaks and had to be tighten further using some glue.
b
1(2)
Attachments
I don't want to discourage experimentation, but-
The W3-593s is the W3-871 with a square frame. I have tried the W3-871s in the DelSol cabinet and have not been pleased with the result.
Additionally, I have tried both the W3-871 and the Aura NS3-194-8E in a variety of cabinets. Where one worked, the other didn't.
YMMV
I tried 3/4 MDF for a faceplate, and the life in the sound was lost. It also requires much relief on the backside to let the driver "breathe"
Pekar
The W3-593s is the W3-871 with a square frame. I have tried the W3-871s in the DelSol cabinet and have not been pleased with the result.
Additionally, I have tried both the W3-871 and the Aura NS3-194-8E in a variety of cabinets. Where one worked, the other didn't.
YMMV
I tried 3/4 MDF for a faceplate, and the life in the sound was lost. It also requires much relief on the backside to let the driver "breathe"
Pekar
pekar said:
thanks for the input Pekar. I may have to try the W3-593 first (hope works out) since I have ordered these. Is this acoustically same as W3-871? except for the frame?
I will open up the backside of the opening per your suggestion since I only have 3/4" MDF for the front. Will see how it all works out. I have cut the wood to the size, now have to work on the speaker openings and the fancy foot with my router.
gychang
I just finished the DelSol project with TB speakers. (W3-593)
so far the sound is satisfying, minimal stuffing with capet underlayment on the back inside of the cabinet. Reminds me of the South of the border colors. wish there was a way to compare with Aura speaker...
gychang
so far the sound is satisfying, minimal stuffing with capet underlayment on the back inside of the cabinet. Reminds me of the South of the border colors. wish there was a way to compare with Aura speaker...
gychang
Attachments
Driver no longer available?
The NS3-194-8E is sold out at madisound. Is there another driver that works well in this enclosure w/o a crossover, can be driven off a t-amp, etc? If not, is there another good design y'all recommend? I'm looking for something cheap, small and minimalist to stick in my already crowded kitchen.
The NS3-194-8E is sold out at madisound. Is there another driver that works well in this enclosure w/o a crossover, can be driven off a t-amp, etc? If not, is there another good design y'all recommend? I'm looking for something cheap, small and minimalist to stick in my already crowded kitchen.
Tangband W3-593 driver hole
I am currently in the middle of building sets of Del Sol bookshelf using Tangband W3-593 (3/4 MDF and 1/2 Birch Ply Face).
I have question concerning mounting the 593 driver. What size should the driver hole be on the faceplate? I noticed around the rear of the 593’s mounting plate there is a slightly raised lip which extends past the basket. The diameter of basket is about 2.75" and the diameter of the lip is 3". If I make the driver hole 3", the square sides of the 593's plate will barely have enough overlap for speaker caulking. If I make the driver hole 2.75”, the driver plate edges will not sit flush against the faceplate. I read the 593 is supposed to be a rear mounted driver. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Nathan
I am currently in the middle of building sets of Del Sol bookshelf using Tangband W3-593 (3/4 MDF and 1/2 Birch Ply Face).
I have question concerning mounting the 593 driver. What size should the driver hole be on the faceplate? I noticed around the rear of the 593’s mounting plate there is a slightly raised lip which extends past the basket. The diameter of basket is about 2.75" and the diameter of the lip is 3". If I make the driver hole 3", the square sides of the 593's plate will barely have enough overlap for speaker caulking. If I make the driver hole 2.75”, the driver plate edges will not sit flush against the faceplate. I read the 593 is supposed to be a rear mounted driver. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Nathan
I haven't dealt with that driver specifically.
I would recommend against rear mounting,
The original driver had similar dimensions, with about 1/16 overlap.
I used a 3" holesaw, and used silicone caulk on the drivers flange.
I made pencil marks to be sure the driver was perfectly centered.
If it's your first time I'd cut a practice hole in something and see if it looks like it will work.
If you look at the picture above posted by gychang, you can see that he routed out a depression to accomodate the flange depth.
Pekar
I would recommend against rear mounting,
The original driver had similar dimensions, with about 1/16 overlap.
I used a 3" holesaw, and used silicone caulk on the drivers flange.
I made pencil marks to be sure the driver was perfectly centered.
If it's your first time I'd cut a practice hole in something and see if it looks like it will work.
If you look at the picture above posted by gychang, you can see that he routed out a depression to accomodate the flange depth.
Pekar
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