WEll I was just over at the Multi way page.
Seems my design is not strictly FR, but is in fact a Multi way.
FR + Xover type.
Here is my latest YT upload.
As I say goning to implant a DLVX6 just below the VX8, Both in same cabinet.
A bit stuffy for 2, but I'll just cut another port at the top, thsi way each driver has its own port.
Will bea trio of FR + the W18/tweeter
Late march2022 completed
One guy over on the Multi forum says sounds like craopla.
What other FR have you heard that beats out either Davidlouis in this vid.
I think both sound fantastic
No I do not want to place a cap on the VX8 to lower bass response and thus increase eff in mids, Its 95db , already more sensitivity than I prefer.
Ideally 93 is best.
DavidLouis VX8+DavidLouisW4 w N/d magnet + W18+ Kasun paper tweeter - YouTube
Seems my design is not strictly FR, but is in fact a Multi way.
FR + Xover type.
Here is my latest YT upload.
As I say goning to implant a DLVX6 just below the VX8, Both in same cabinet.
A bit stuffy for 2, but I'll just cut another port at the top, thsi way each driver has its own port.
Will bea trio of FR + the W18/tweeter
Late march2022 completed
One guy over on the Multi forum says sounds like craopla.
What other FR have you heard that beats out either Davidlouis in this vid.
I think both sound fantastic
No I do not want to place a cap on the VX8 to lower bass response and thus increase eff in mids, Its 95db , already more sensitivity than I prefer.
Ideally 93 is best.
DavidLouis VX8+DavidLouisW4 w N/d magnet + W18+ Kasun paper tweeter - YouTube
Well, it sounds as terrible here as it did before (although all youtube videos sound lousy). For the benefit of other readers, nobody used the word 'crapola' on the other thread referred to; our friend has in fact made that up.
Regarding capacitors, adding a series cap to provide a nominal 1st order electrical high pass only attenuates below the corner frequency. Being a passive component, it does not increase output higher up the range: only an increase in amplifier power or a very high Q BP filter can do that.
As a piece of general advice, I do suggest you try to fasten your drivers to the enclosures using all the mounting points rather than only some of them.
Regarding capacitors, adding a series cap to provide a nominal 1st order electrical high pass only attenuates below the corner frequency. Being a passive component, it does not increase output higher up the range: only an increase in amplifier power or a very high Q BP filter can do that.
As a piece of general advice, I do suggest you try to fasten your drivers to the enclosures using all the mounting points rather than only some of them.
As a piece of general advice, I do suggest you try to fasten your drivers to the enclosures using all the mounting points rather than only some of them.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I'll try again, But I think the holes are cut too big, not enough wood to get another screw.
Measure once cut 3 x's makes waste.
Still waiting on some ideas about speakers that perfform as well as the pair of DavidLouis.
Fostex?
Mark Audio?
You know I heard the Feastrex FC's, actually not impressed.
Neither liked the Fostex and Mark Audio specs nor YT vids.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I'll try again, But I think the holes are cut too big, not enough wood to get another screw.
Measure once cut 3 x's makes waste.
Still waiting on some ideas about speakers that perfform as well as the pair of DavidLouis.
Fostex?
Mark Audio?
You know I heard the Feastrex FC's, actually not impressed.
Neither liked the Fostex and Mark Audio specs nor YT vids.
After playing with my focused array of w4-1337sdf, i agree.......
A whizzer has a hard time.
Then again, good luck getting hf from an 8" or larger that isn't in complete breakdown mode.
Ive learned that just because a driver can get up there (flatly even), it doesn't mean it sounds good up there.
A whizzer has a hard time.
Then again, good luck getting hf from an 8" or larger that isn't in complete breakdown mode.
Ive learned that just because a driver can get up there (flatly even), it doesn't mean it sounds good up there.
Hi Mozartfan,
As many people on this forum know, fullrange speakers with wide band drivers have the advantage of providing coherent sound over a specific range typically from 500Hz to 5kHz that doesn’t require a crossover (because it’s one driver) so the sound is natural and lifelike. Especially the imaging and soundstage is preserved properly as the phase information from a single driver is very good. As Planet10 mentioned, a WAW or FAST design takes advantages of full range and augments it with bass from a larger woofer. Having a well designed crossover is important to preserve the advantages of the full range. A good crossover and physically locating the drivers to preserve the time alignment is one extra step to make the sound even more realistic - especially for percussion like drums or stand up bass and piano.
My problem with a lot of larger boutique fullrange drivers is that they don’t have a neutral flat response, and they tend to lose phase coherence because they achieve high frequency by operating in a high breakup mode (like with whizzers). This loses one of the most important advantages of phase coherence. Probably one of the best sounding larger full range drivers is the W5-2143. It doesn’t use a whizzer yet reaches high and sounds quite good.
Here is an example of the WAW/FAST concept with a 3.5in ScanSpeak 10F/8424 (one of the flattest and most neutral full range drivers) and an 8in woofer that is also very flat and neutral. I chose a rather high 900Hz crossover but since it is a 1st order slope, both drivers extend well above and below so the crossover is seamless. The woofer provides much of the full range experience here as it has the pistonic action (preserves phase coherence) and the authority to delivery palpable mid bass and true deep bass. Coupled with a TL, the bass reaches down to 26Hz.
Here is a video made with my phone where I was testing my new 100w Class A amp. A variety of tracks for you to get a sense of the music it’s capable of.
Test of SuSyLu 100W Class A Amp - YouTube
Another way to get almost full range behavior is to use a well behaved (almost wide band) woofer and have a tweeter crossed up high (3.5kHz and above). Then a 2 way speaker can have the majority of that full range band with one driver. Again, letting one driver cover as much of the 500Hz to 5kHz range. In this case 40Hz to 3.5kHz and then relying on a tweeter for the rest above 3.5kHz. Again, crossover design is critical and the only way to do this properly is to use microphones and measurement and crossover simulation software. An example of such a speaker using a 6.5in variant of the 8in woofer in the above speaker is here:
LSA Signature 80 Reference Monitor first sound - YouTube
I think if you are going to start making a multi driver multi fullrange speaker, it is important to invest some resources to get a microphone and play with REW software and see graphically what your speaker looks like in frequency space. A well designed speaker will be able to play all genres well. Boutique high efficiency drivers that have non optimal responses will play only some genres well (because the content only exists in a few cherry picked frequency bands). Like girl and guitar will sound good on almost any speaker. Complex music like hard rock or heavy metal tends to get congested and fall apart on non neutral full range drivers, or music with a lot of bass content and highs will have intermodulation between the two and compromise the sound.
As many people on this forum know, fullrange speakers with wide band drivers have the advantage of providing coherent sound over a specific range typically from 500Hz to 5kHz that doesn’t require a crossover (because it’s one driver) so the sound is natural and lifelike. Especially the imaging and soundstage is preserved properly as the phase information from a single driver is very good. As Planet10 mentioned, a WAW or FAST design takes advantages of full range and augments it with bass from a larger woofer. Having a well designed crossover is important to preserve the advantages of the full range. A good crossover and physically locating the drivers to preserve the time alignment is one extra step to make the sound even more realistic - especially for percussion like drums or stand up bass and piano.
My problem with a lot of larger boutique fullrange drivers is that they don’t have a neutral flat response, and they tend to lose phase coherence because they achieve high frequency by operating in a high breakup mode (like with whizzers). This loses one of the most important advantages of phase coherence. Probably one of the best sounding larger full range drivers is the W5-2143. It doesn’t use a whizzer yet reaches high and sounds quite good.
Here is an example of the WAW/FAST concept with a 3.5in ScanSpeak 10F/8424 (one of the flattest and most neutral full range drivers) and an 8in woofer that is also very flat and neutral. I chose a rather high 900Hz crossover but since it is a 1st order slope, both drivers extend well above and below so the crossover is seamless. The woofer provides much of the full range experience here as it has the pistonic action (preserves phase coherence) and the authority to delivery palpable mid bass and true deep bass. Coupled with a TL, the bass reaches down to 26Hz.
Here is a video made with my phone where I was testing my new 100w Class A amp. A variety of tracks for you to get a sense of the music it’s capable of.
Test of SuSyLu 100W Class A Amp - YouTube
Another way to get almost full range behavior is to use a well behaved (almost wide band) woofer and have a tweeter crossed up high (3.5kHz and above). Then a 2 way speaker can have the majority of that full range band with one driver. Again, letting one driver cover as much of the 500Hz to 5kHz range. In this case 40Hz to 3.5kHz and then relying on a tweeter for the rest above 3.5kHz. Again, crossover design is critical and the only way to do this properly is to use microphones and measurement and crossover simulation software. An example of such a speaker using a 6.5in variant of the 8in woofer in the above speaker is here:
LSA Signature 80 Reference Monitor first sound - YouTube
I think if you are going to start making a multi driver multi fullrange speaker, it is important to invest some resources to get a microphone and play with REW software and see graphically what your speaker looks like in frequency space. A well designed speaker will be able to play all genres well. Boutique high efficiency drivers that have non optimal responses will play only some genres well (because the content only exists in a few cherry picked frequency bands). Like girl and guitar will sound good on almost any speaker. Complex music like hard rock or heavy metal tends to get congested and fall apart on non neutral full range drivers, or music with a lot of bass content and highs will have intermodulation between the two and compromise the sound.
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Hey yeah
I've listened to the YT uploads on the Feastrix.
From that bare hint of performance, was not impressed ,,,at all. nada
The best DavidLouis to get is the VX8,, will order the VX6 maybe in late March. Looks a winner.
His yellow cone 6 is ok, but NOT recommended. Over priced and is soso in all fq's.
Avoid his Diatone and many others.
Look at Voxativ's wood cone unit,, looks near identical.
I'm a fan of whizzers. No whizzer most likely not going to like it.
For $250/pair/parts express the TB2145 wasa performaer, tight bass, clean mids, highs not rolled off.
But I found the mids in the VX8 to my preference.
Both very close.
FREE returns.
VX8 no returns as it ships back to HK, not doable.
VX6 $550 VX6 $325
Will report back on the VX6 ASAP
OK clear.
]
maybe how I hear good sound mmay not be in your parimeters.
I must agree the VX8 is not **perfect** but IMHO its the best bang for $550.
I mean if I really wanted superr sound I'd start ordering the AER's and Vox's wood cone.
But I'm not willing to get cleaner sound for alot more $$$$.
My classical recordigs dont deserve highest end speakers. Most recordings are ok, a few great, others not high fidelity.
I have no complaints about either the VX8 and W4.
Like the Seas Thors Excel, clean, clear, no coloration, no resonances , = no fatigue.
But let me be clear, they may not be as same fidelity as AER and a few Vox Models.
But then AER db sens is wayyyyy too high for my use.
When sens is too high you get a huge mid slam , but bass is lowered.
93/94 is ideal in FR sensitivity
I agree with what X said. You have tested so many full range now, why not do something very new and different, costs a lot less too... A 2 way 3" + 8" crossed at about 500Hz.
Oon
Somehow I missed xrk971's excellent post.
hummm, there is great solid ingo here and no doubt some of you geeks could lead me to a better *Frankenstein* design.
In my case, due to both lack of time and hardly any tech training, these ideas can not be worked out in my system.
I have to stay with whats easy, simple and waaa laa, Its done For all its good and bad.
Just wanted to say, the old mantra about speakers **trade offs, weaknesses in all designs,,,** etc.
I'm sure its partly true.
But my mantra is FR are best bang, as IS, with no tweaking, nada.
Just plug and play.
Let me try to explain.
The Seas Thor with upgrade and Millenium as tweet, is listenable as stand alone.
What the FR does is bring ina rich full midrange + adds some bass and some highs.
Sort of a emblishment .
But actually the W8+W4 is the Front and Center speaker with the Thors as the assist mode.
Sure you guys come step in and figure a superior system, but its not doable as i have no time and lack skills.
I'm just surprised , amazed at how well these FR voice midrange for my classical.
You guys have test measurments and can tweak your designs to higher fidelity.
Agree with xrk in one thing, a girl witha guitar any speaker will sound good. Which is why jazz fans love to use Miles davis Kind Of Blue on every show of their speakers.
Kind of Blue comes across great even ona Bose,,well wouldn't go that fra,, But even a B&W((yuckkky) might sound great .
When i had my Philps 2 ways from 1980 the 475 with that supre natural tweeter, I thought the world of that speaker,, when I got the Thor kit and place the Philips next to the Thors, the P's were annihilated
Now the DLVX8 next to the Thors, annihilation .
I'm sure there is some design that will annihilate my FR system.
But it will have to do for now as i;'m getting older and not sure how much time I have left here.
Thanks for all the great info.
I will post a vid when I add the DLVX6.
Will be a Trio of FR drivers,,
~~~~~has anyone concocted such a scheme that you know of?~~
Hopefully not midrange heavy.
It will tripling most of the midrange fq's.
Where's the puke smiley,,,hahaha
hummm, there is great solid ingo here and no doubt some of you geeks could lead me to a better *Frankenstein* design.
In my case, due to both lack of time and hardly any tech training, these ideas can not be worked out in my system.
I have to stay with whats easy, simple and waaa laa, Its done For all its good and bad.
Just wanted to say, the old mantra about speakers **trade offs, weaknesses in all designs,,,** etc.
I'm sure its partly true.
But my mantra is FR are best bang, as IS, with no tweaking, nada.
Just plug and play.
Let me try to explain.
The Seas Thor with upgrade and Millenium as tweet, is listenable as stand alone.
What the FR does is bring ina rich full midrange + adds some bass and some highs.
Sort of a emblishment .
But actually the W8+W4 is the Front and Center speaker with the Thors as the assist mode.
Sure you guys come step in and figure a superior system, but its not doable as i have no time and lack skills.
I'm just surprised , amazed at how well these FR voice midrange for my classical.
You guys have test measurments and can tweak your designs to higher fidelity.
Agree with xrk in one thing, a girl witha guitar any speaker will sound good. Which is why jazz fans love to use Miles davis Kind Of Blue on every show of their speakers.
Kind of Blue comes across great even ona Bose,,well wouldn't go that fra,, But even a B&W((yuckkky) might sound great .
When i had my Philps 2 ways from 1980 the 475 with that supre natural tweeter, I thought the world of that speaker,, when I got the Thor kit and place the Philips next to the Thors, the P's were annihilated
Now the DLVX8 next to the Thors, annihilation .
I'm sure there is some design that will annihilate my FR system.
But it will have to do for now as i;'m getting older and not sure how much time I have left here.
Thanks for all the great info.
I will post a vid when I add the DLVX6.
Will be a Trio of FR drivers,,
~~~~~has anyone concocted such a scheme that you know of?~~
Hopefully not midrange heavy.
It will tripling most of the midrange fq's.
Where's the puke smiley,,,hahaha
We give you some options that are quite easy, yet you dismiss them as too hard to implement. IMO, making a speaker with 3-4 full range drivers is way more complicated and difficult.
The crossover is easy:
I even have a premade PCB for it so all you need to do is stuff it. Then place the full range 7in away from the 8in on a 10in wide baffle. Put a sports cone as a rear chamber in the full range and put the whole thing in a 24L box for 50Hz or make the TL if you want 30Hz bass.
It’s all explained in post 1 here:
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
The crossover is easy:
I even have a premade PCB for it so all you need to do is stuff it. Then place the full range 7in away from the 8in on a 10in wide baffle. Put a sports cone as a rear chamber in the full range and put the whole thing in a 24L box for 50Hz or make the TL if you want 30Hz bass.
It’s all explained in post 1 here:
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
Interesting. Sure I could get my tech geek to impliment your design.
No problem.
My W18's already have a good xover via Apollito design.
The tweeter has a single 8 cap.
Both work fine.
I note your FR8 has some sort of fiber cone.
Not going to work for me.
I only like magnesium in the W18's and wood in the FR.
Bamboo fiber in the TB2145 is ok too.
I avoid paper and carbon type cones.
anyway about measurments and p-erforamance.
Here is a YT tech geek who makes extentive testings with all sorts of designs.
After watching his video on the Seas FA22RCZ I decided to give it a try.
You can read my comments.
Just lousey, trash.
Reposted with Audio Volume Increased -- Full Test on Seas FA22RCZ 8" Fullrange Driver - YouTube
No problem.
My W18's already have a good xover via Apollito design.
The tweeter has a single 8 cap.
Both work fine.
I note your FR8 has some sort of fiber cone.
Not going to work for me.
I only like magnesium in the W18's and wood in the FR.
Bamboo fiber in the TB2145 is ok too.
I avoid paper and carbon type cones.
anyway about measurments and p-erforamance.
Here is a YT tech geek who makes extentive testings with all sorts of designs.
After watching his video on the Seas FA22RCZ I decided to give it a try.
You can read my comments.
Just lousey, trash.
Reposted with Audio Volume Increased -- Full Test on Seas FA22RCZ 8" Fullrange Driver - YouTube
And I doubt if I would like either mark Audio nor Fostex.
I'm a fan of Davidlouis. Feel no need to try others.
My ears pretty much tell me I've found what I was always looking for.
Down the road I may try one of Fostex's better speakers.
looking over YT vids on the Fostex,..I noted that i left a comment on how these speakers are too loud and distorted.
They sound like crapola...
I'd never go Fos.
10+ yr old design??
Like Seas wayyy behind the new higher tech FR.
IMHO DL reigns
This guy is torturing his dog, and he has no clue why the dog is in pain.
what an ego
300b triode amp Fostex Fe208ez horn - YouTube
I'm a fan of Davidlouis. Feel no need to try others.
My ears pretty much tell me I've found what I was always looking for.
Down the road I may try one of Fostex's better speakers.
looking over YT vids on the Fostex,..I noted that i left a comment on how these speakers are too loud and distorted.
They sound like crapola...
I'd never go Fos.
10+ yr old design??
Like Seas wayyy behind the new higher tech FR.
IMHO DL reigns
This guy is torturing his dog, and he has no clue why the dog is in pain.
what an ego
300b triode amp Fostex Fe208ez horn - YouTube
Just so everybody is clear, after spending considerable amounts of time ranting about
a/ How various drive units, including some he has never seen or heard, are superior to a vast amount of other things he has, er, never seen or heard
b/ How David Louis 'tech' is cutting-edge (despite it exhibiting no advanced design features)
c/ How he is a fan of whizzer-cones and if a driver does not have one (type unspecified) he is 'most likely not going to like it'
d/ How he is only likes magnesium for bass driver cones, wood or bamboo fibre for wideband driver cones, and isn't interested in 'paper and carbon types', even though the aforementioned bamboo fibre type is a paper pulp variation
e/ How he would
The OP has now performed a screeching U-turn and announced that the defunct paper-pulp Fostex FE207E in a horn he's found on a youtube video (which looks like an enlarged version of my old Bruce box) has a sound he 'wants', and that
...following this up with a [further] post 21 minutes later stating:
The FExx8ESigma series units being, of course, the decade+ old designs he was previously deriding for having paper-pulp (with banana-fibre) cones, and being devoid of the whizzer cones he stated he required, since if a wideband driver lacked a whizzer, he was 'most likely not going to like it'.
a/ How various drive units, including some he has never seen or heard, are superior to a vast amount of other things he has, er, never seen or heard
b/ How David Louis 'tech' is cutting-edge (despite it exhibiting no advanced design features)
c/ How he is a fan of whizzer-cones and if a driver does not have one (type unspecified) he is 'most likely not going to like it'
d/ How he is only likes magnesium for bass driver cones, wood or bamboo fibre for wideband driver cones, and isn't interested in 'paper and carbon types', even though the aforementioned bamboo fibre type is a paper pulp variation
e/ How he would
The OP has now performed a screeching U-turn and announced that the defunct paper-pulp Fostex FE207E in a horn he's found on a youtube video (which looks like an enlarged version of my old Bruce box) has a sound he 'wants', and that
...following this up with a [further] post 21 minutes later stating:
The FExx8ESigma series units being, of course, the decade+ old designs he was previously deriding for having paper-pulp (with banana-fibre) cones, and being devoid of the whizzer cones he stated he required, since if a wideband driver lacked a whizzer, he was 'most likely not going to like it'.
The FExx8ESigma series units being, of course, the decade+ old designs he was previously deriding for having paper-pulp (with banana-fibre) cones, and being devoid of the whizzer cones he stated he required, since if a wideband driver lacked a whizzer, he was 'most likely not going to like it'.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Look I'll admit
I was wrong in some of my opinions ((ahh doctrines)
I am now willing to live and learn new things.
Have you guys read the 2003!!!!!!!!!!
Review of the Basszilla?
Unreal.
TB2145 Good
DLVX8 Better
FE Sigma The Best
Read the Audiogon review from 2003!!!! 19 years ago!!!
man was I sleep walking.
Review: ZHORN FOSTEX Speaker | Audiogon Discussion Forum
You can tell this is a honest unbiased review.
No Stereophile snakeoil..haha
And then the link on the Madisound page to the Basszilla
Tip_43
Will be mid 2022 when i can DIY a FE Sigma 8 + FE Sigma 6
Duo,, don't ask why, I just like duo FR.
Going to list the DLVX/Free ship on Ebay after I start the project. $350/pair. paid $550
Here's the specs og this magical SE 8
Fostex FE208EZ 8" Full Range Sigma Series
Adding the SE6 sigma is not cast in stone, may go with another Size Sigma, smaller.
Just going to swap out the DLVX8 add in the FE8 and cut another hole below for the other Sigma.
Not a horn, just a basic box.
1 cabint is 30 inches H the other 28.5. Measure once cut 3 times,,arghhh, doess not amtter looks, only how it sounds.
Not much on cabinet building.
And yes will try to get all 4 screws in the FE driver, although the hole is cut a pinch too big, not much area for screws.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Look I'll admit
I was wrong in some of my opinions ((ahh doctrines)
I am now willing to live and learn new things.
Have you guys read the 2003!!!!!!!!!!
Review of the Basszilla?
Unreal.
TB2145 Good
DLVX8 Better
FE Sigma The Best
Read the Audiogon review from 2003!!!! 19 years ago!!!
man was I sleep walking.
Review: ZHORN FOSTEX Speaker | Audiogon Discussion Forum
You can tell this is a honest unbiased review.
No Stereophile snakeoil..haha
And then the link on the Madisound page to the Basszilla
Tip_43
Will be mid 2022 when i can DIY a FE Sigma 8 + FE Sigma 6
Duo,, don't ask why, I just like duo FR.
Going to list the DLVX/Free ship on Ebay after I start the project. $350/pair. paid $550
Here's the specs og this magical SE 8
Fostex FE208EZ 8" Full Range Sigma Series
Adding the SE6 sigma is not cast in stone, may go with another Size Sigma, smaller.
Just going to swap out the DLVX8 add in the FE8 and cut another hole below for the other Sigma.
Not a horn, just a basic box.
1 cabint is 30 inches H the other 28.5. Measure once cut 3 times,,arghhh, doess not amtter looks, only how it sounds.
Not much on cabinet building.
And yes will try to get all 4 screws in the FE driver, although the hole is cut a pinch too big, not much area for screws.
A couple of points come to mind re the above.
-'Shootouts' may be entertaining, but they are also generally rather meaningless except in a general 'he prefers, she prefers' sense. Which is perfectly fine so long as that's as far as you take it. Anything more profound than that goes up in smoke unless you are dealing with precisely the same type of drive unit which has been designed to the same design goals.
-You don't mention here which AER drive unit you are referring to -there are currently six different production models, the BD1, BD2 and BD3 respectively. The 'standard' non 'B' units have much more powerful rated motor power / much higher electromechanical damping: Q is about 1/3 that claimed for the VX8. The 'B' series have the motors & damping backed off -still more than the VX8, but are closer, with the BD1 B being the nearest of the bunch based on rated data for all the drivers in question, albeit with a lower Fs and of course a nominal 16ohm coil which needs to be considered in the context of the driving amplifier. Since you say you don't actually own any AER drivers though, it might be a little premature to speculate on whether one is 'better' than the other.
-Personally, having listened to the Youtube video, I can't really see what the fuss is about. Part of that is possibly due to the poor sound quality of youtube videos in general, with all the well-known caveats involved in these. Trying to 'hear through' that though, I'm not sure I can hear anything particularly special to me, but there do appear to be characteristics I hear with many moderate sensitivity whizzer cone 8in widebands. YMMV as always though and if you're happy: great. That's exactly what it's all about, and I'm delighted you've found something that does you such good service.
Yes I agree. AS of last night visitinga few FE Sigma YT vids,, it was THEN at that time
when i realized, perahps,, yes in fact, the Sigma 8 w/o whizzer is a superior sound to the
DLVX8.
There's no doubt in my mind.
And then this morning reading a review on Audiogon and the Basszilla review made it all bonifide and its a done deal.
After I start the FE Sigma duo W8 + W? maybe a 4,5 or 6 Sigma with the sigma 8,, I will list the DLVX8 on ebay.
Now i hear what you guys hear in the whizzer.
Here is how I hear the 3 FR's
TB2145 Good
DLVX8 Better
FE Sigma 8 The Best
These speakers have been around since 2003!!!!!!!!!
I have been sleep walking all these decades.
Not going to add a cap on the FE8 as per Basszilla suggestion, don't need to, as i listen at low SPL
's and so driver will not in any way be stressed.
Hope to get this project completed ,,maybe May2022.
Fostex FE208EZ 8" Full Range Sigma Series
Sigma 8+ Sigma 6
Final design
The Sigma 4 just does not offer what the big 6 offers.
Fostex FE168EZ 6.5" Full Range Sigma Series
Final design
The Sigma 4 just does not offer what the big 6 offers.
Fostex FE168EZ 6.5" Full Range Sigma Series
No, rethinking
The Sigma 6 will offer too much midrange at 94db sens
The Sigma 4 90 db sensitivity
Perfect as a emblishment.
Final design
Sigma 8 + Sigma 4.
Done deal.
+ the Cabinet will absorb a W4 much better than a W6. No need to make a separate cabinet.
Fostex FE108EZ 4" Full Range Sigma Series
The Sigma 6 will offer too much midrange at 94db sens
The Sigma 4 90 db sensitivity
Perfect as a emblishment.
Final design
Sigma 8 + Sigma 4.
Done deal.
+ the Cabinet will absorb a W4 much better than a W6. No need to make a separate cabinet.
Fostex FE108EZ 4" Full Range Sigma Series
Now i fully understand why you guys suggest a whizzer adds some mid resonances.
Its true, no whizzer is what I'm looking for.
This is w/o doubt the best high fidelity sound I've ever heard in my life.
This is the driver I will order along with the Sigma 8.
Modular speakers BENTEZH | Static Recordings Demo | ABSOLUTE SAMPLER | High-End DIY | Fostex FE108EZ - YouTube
Its true, no whizzer is what I'm looking for.
This is w/o doubt the best high fidelity sound I've ever heard in my life.
This is the driver I will order along with the Sigma 8.
Modular speakers BENTEZH | Static Recordings Demo | ABSOLUTE SAMPLER | High-End DIY | Fostex FE108EZ - YouTube