DavidLouis VX8 wide band

Thank you for all the inputs!

I'm also skewed towards SETs but not set in stone.
You're welcome!

Hmm, if a matching impedance, then the somewhat oversized 8PE21 for the desired BW makes for an excellent ~ ideal size for a ~200-2150 Hz BW which will make the mids a bit more coherent, tonally balanced.

IB response Vs with 8 ohms matching impedance, both including on axis extended HF due to impedance rise:
BC 8PE21 IB comparison.PNG
 
You're welcome!

Hmm, if a matching impedance, then the somewhat oversized 8PE21 for the desired BW makes for an excellent ~ ideal size for a ~200-2150 Hz BW which will make the mids a bit more coherent, tonally balanced.

IB response Vs with 8 ohms matching impedance, both including on axis extended HF due to impedance rise: View attachment 1029886
Thank you!

How is the "impedance matching" implemented?
 
Interesting use of terms. Are you maybe implying that allowing for cone flex, the smallest it might appear is somewhere near the dustcap size?
Actually stating it based on some Altec measurements* done ages ago ;), i.e. there's no cone flex at the VC glue joint and regardless of cone flex a basic driver remains ~pistonic up to the VC's diameter per its polar response** at which point there's a complete impedance mismatch due to the glue joint and above this BW the driver goes into its random TL modes BW [cone flex] and finally its breakup modes BW across the dust cap.

With whizzers, they act like the horn bell they are, comb filtering with all this nearby radiation, hence the Lowther $0.98 tweak to damp this very high Q area.

* Need to do a little write-up to accompany them, so as time permits........

** Obviously there's exceptions, especially with wide/full-range drivers, where the 'art' of whizzers, phase plugs, doping, Dave's little dash patterns ;), etc., comes into play plus box size/shape can have an audible impact on it.

Regardless, using the mean of each driver for the XO point always worked well with the simple 2nd order XOs Altec used with the speaker designs I reversed engineered and 'good enough' for the folks that I did them for using 2nd order textbook XOs + shelving pots [if required] way back when, claiming they performed better overall with basic bass/treble controls than some of the relatively expensive ['70s-mid'80s] popular brands that had at least one horn, especially at higher SPL [these all did double duty as party speakers] and of course even better with a proper equalizer, so kind of been hoping someone with Vitiux/XO design skills would 'take me to task' and show us just how good/bad/indifferent such a simple design sims in comparison with a 'proper' electronics design and how much EQ might be required.