You can select transformer with +-15Vac secondaries. After rectification and filtration the output voltage could be exactly 20Vdc (if it is more you can add a diode in series, it will add a voltage drop)Thanks for the heads up. That could've been
😵 I wonder if I can just squeak by with Power Transformer ?
I'm looking for +/-18VDC for Abraxalito's Dark I/V. I thought your mini PS would be perfect.
Regards,
Dan
Add a diode on output in series 🙂
It is not a plancha ?! Or let the 5V and heat, close the box all is heat coupled stable, and live happy ! ahaha ! Be worried only if you reach Class A amps temperature for the gentle caps that prefer winter games more than summer games !
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I just used larger heatsink, but if someone needs to drop V, diode is the easiest way for this use case. I don't like leaving fingerprints on heatsinks/components and using additional chain components, hence just upping the dissipation power.
I leaved mine with 5 V but hopes it will not break, we have no reports about that yet. The day I will box it (for now it is always on benchs for tweaks and testings, new pcbs, new I/V, etc . I shall find a 4V feasible PS with a pot !
You can drop a few hundred mV with miros psu, trimpot allows for that. I belive mine bottomed out at 4.7V. That should be enough. Or recalculate for values needed.
So I simply cannot find comparable Ldo with 4v one? I suspect as anything else in life no free lunch rule applies here too 🙂
@voxxonline are the TPS7A regs from LDOVR any good? - you can set the output to whatever, 4V would be possible -
https://www.ldovr.com/TPS7A4700-Ultra-Low-Noise-LDO-Voltage-Regulator-p/tps7a4700-78xxg.htm
https://www.ldovr.com/TPS7A4700-Ultra-Low-Noise-LDO-Voltage-Regulator-p/tps7a4700-78xxg.htm
Thanks. Will look into this once I recover from North Downs Way hike.
Sitting in a pub by the Box Hill waiting for my wife to pick up my body and move it home. Hopefully in one piece 😀
Sitting in a pub by the Box Hill waiting for my wife to pick up my body and move it home. Hopefully in one piece 😀
I have used 5v supply on the JLS USB to I2S daily for many months now with my Miro ad1862 dac with no issues. It is in a pretty large case though needed to house all of the separate psus. I think it was the largest 2U chassis from the DIYAudio store. Latest v3 version of JLS.
OPA1655 🤩🎶🎶Guys, I have the second board for the AD1862 but with soic version opamps. What good options are there for soic? I want to assemble another one.
Voxx,So I simply cannot find comparable Ldo with 4v one? I suspect as anything else in life no free lunch rule applies here too 🙂
Don’t sweat the small stuff.
The JLS heatsink gets hot, just don’t hold on to it while you’re listening to music 🤣.
Apologies if I asked this before.
Power supplies are ready, time to start figuring out JLS configuration.
This thread has so many DAC versions I am getting a bit confused with how to set up the JLS board on the stacked DAC version.
Note:
1. I am not using a clock board yet, only usb board
2. For simplicity say I power the board from the bus, as in option 1 on page 3. No external PSU yet.
3. The board version is with fully isolated outputs (saying, in case it makes any difference, I don't know)
Question:
Does the Miro stacked version take care of all wiring and I don't need to run any wires from H1 to H3?
Plus:
A-G: Open
H5 header as per page 6, AD1862 config where:
J3: Closed, J4: Open, J5: Open, J6: close.
Thanks
Power supplies are ready, time to start figuring out JLS configuration.
This thread has so many DAC versions I am getting a bit confused with how to set up the JLS board on the stacked DAC version.
Note:
1. I am not using a clock board yet, only usb board
2. For simplicity say I power the board from the bus, as in option 1 on page 3. No external PSU yet.
3. The board version is with fully isolated outputs (saying, in case it makes any difference, I don't know)
Question:
Does the Miro stacked version take care of all wiring and I don't need to run any wires from H1 to H3?
Plus:
A-G: Open
H5 header as per page 6, AD1862 config where:
J3: Closed, J4: Open, J5: Open, J6: close.
Thanks
Attachments
You really need to take 10 minutes to the pub to read JLSounds manuel, and understand related to this Miro pcb layout where all is written already. It is very well explained in the posts...
Forget the wires, the strap closed you describe are acurate. And differ from the previous v3 JL you haven t. I get fooled myself because i believed i could save the time to read carefully the F. Manual.
😉
Forget the wires, the strap closed you describe are acurate. And differ from the previous v3 JL you haven t. I get fooled myself because i believed i could save the time to read carefully the F. Manual.
😉
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