DAC AD1862: Almost THT, I2S input, NOS, R-2R

Thanks for the heads up. That could've been
😵 I wonder if I can just squeak by with Power Transformer ?

I'm looking for +/-18VDC for Abraxalito's Dark I/V. I thought your mini PS would be perfect.

Regards,
Dan
You can select transformer with +-15Vac secondaries. After rectification and filtration the output voltage could be exactly 20Vdc (if it is more you can add a diode in series, it will add a voltage drop)
 
Guys, I have the second board for the AD1862 but with soic version opamps. What good options are there for soic? I want to assemble another one.
 

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I have used 5v supply on the JLS USB to I2S daily for many months now with my Miro ad1862 dac with no issues. It is in a pretty large case though needed to house all of the separate psus. I think it was the largest 2U chassis from the DIYAudio store. Latest v3 version of JLS.
 
Apologies if I asked this before.
Power supplies are ready, time to start figuring out JLS configuration.
This thread has so many DAC versions I am getting a bit confused with how to set up the JLS board on the stacked DAC version.

Note:
1. I am not using a clock board yet, only usb board
2. For simplicity say I power the board from the bus, as in option 1 on page 3. No external PSU yet.
3. The board version is with fully isolated outputs (saying, in case it makes any difference, I don't know)

Question:

Does the Miro stacked version take care of all wiring and I don't need to run any wires from H1 to H3?
Plus:
A-G: Open
H5 header as per page 6, AD1862 config where:
J3: Closed, J4: Open, J5: Open, J6: close.

Thanks
 

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You really need to take 10 minutes to the pub to read JLSounds manuel, and understand related to this Miro pcb layout where all is written already. It is very well explained in the posts...
Forget the wires, the strap closed you describe are acurate. And differ from the previous v3 JL you haven t. I get fooled myself because i believed i could save the time to read carefully the F. Manual.
😉