Theoricallyy the IXTP but it doesn't matter that much, the second low mosfet matters more like the quality of the output cap 10 uF. And the tube quality as well.
You still can use a Mu Follower instead to lower the dc coupling cap to 0.2 uF better quality cap, much lower output impedance and have still CCS current stage with less pricy Mosfet (the two LND150) but for the lower fet position where the quality still matter (Mosfet or Fet choose your camp). Some prefers the CCS like Grunf made some other find chock loaded is even better (but expensive). The advantage of both is your B+ doesn't need to be of a stellar complex build...
In the Michelag's pcb I still put directly the resistors direct on the tube pins socket to the nearest pcb hole then strap to the next hole (the wires you see at theback)... story to be sure...
here courtesy of @euro21 iirc Mufollower option ; again DN2540N perfectly good for that voltages below 300V I reraded (I think the two diodes in the low Mosfet should be back to back in the other cathose to anode direction but not sure it makes a difference):
Edit :maybe I will update r9 to 10M and lower the 0.315 uF bootstrap cap decoupling by a 0.1 uF instead. Change the led green by 10R (T Loesh and use a 50R as I/V with a styren tin foilded (LCR brand or any NOS Philips/Vishay).
You still can use a Mu Follower instead to lower the dc coupling cap to 0.2 uF better quality cap, much lower output impedance and have still CCS current stage with less pricy Mosfet (the two LND150) but for the lower fet position where the quality still matter (Mosfet or Fet choose your camp). Some prefers the CCS like Grunf made some other find chock loaded is even better (but expensive). The advantage of both is your B+ doesn't need to be of a stellar complex build...
In the Michelag's pcb I still put directly the resistors direct on the tube pins socket to the nearest pcb hole then strap to the next hole (the wires you see at theback)... story to be sure...
here courtesy of @euro21 iirc Mufollower option ; again DN2540N perfectly good for that voltages below 300V I reraded (I think the two diodes in the low Mosfet should be back to back in the other cathose to anode direction but not sure it makes a difference):
Edit :maybe I will update r9 to 10M and lower the 0.315 uF bootstrap cap decoupling by a 0.1 uF instead. Change the led green by 10R (T Loesh and use a 50R as I/V with a styren tin foilded (LCR brand or any NOS Philips/Vishay).
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Well, depend on how one is feeding the input board (main power traffo output voltage)... https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...st-tht-i2s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/post-7751786
Always better to cope with the designer BOM who chosen the parts relative to each others. My input is : if you have the DN25 etc as said Grunf, start with it, not to wait your Mouser/Digikey order and test before the POC if you have that part already.
Always better to cope with the designer BOM who chosen the parts relative to each others. My input is : if you have the DN25 etc as said Grunf, start with it, not to wait your Mouser/Digikey order and test before the POC if you have that part already.
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If there was an IXTP02N50D in stock at Mouser when I was doing tube I/V it would certainly have been the first choice, unfortunately only the IXTP08N100D2 was available then so it remained in the scheme. IXTP08N50D2 is better than IXTP08N100D2 and both are better than DN2540 but as I already wrote for the first hand you can freely use DN2540 which is easy to replace later.
@BRN less fragile than the DN2540N, marginal better "better sounding"... The evident choice if few bucks difference is not a problem! 🙂. Not a stress choice if already at hands ! Grunf had experienced both already. AKA : fast answer : "better part" (cf). (diminishing returns, etc ... we want all to touch the sky,no ? the next cloud often costs more 
). Buy it to sleep better !
). Buy it to sleep better !
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Dear @miro1360 I could not seem to find the gerber and schematics of the following PSU, it was working fine with my DAC but one of the +12 side fried and its rectifiers are heating up so I want to fix it but cant seem to find the schemativs and the gerber, appreciate if you could help, thanks.
diyAudio_PSU1_TDA1541A_2022
diyAudio_PSU1_TDA1541A_2022
Always go to post #1, look for info in Miro's blog, where he made compilation according to categories
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-268#post-7159234
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...s-input-nos-r-2r.354078/page-268#post-7159234
Thanks, still have some of those bulky rectifiers from AD1862/65 LT1083/30xx PSU and I have a spare secondary, I am considering put this one to work, finally!
After figuring out couple problems with my soldering, finally have a working copy of the 1862 DAC with LM6171 IV. It's fed from Ian's stack with I2S uf.l.
My first impression is that my old PS Audio PWD fed from the same Ian's stack via HDMI I2S sounds significantly better in all areas - more definition, cleaner deeper bass, more extended highs, cleaner and wider soundstage, etc.
As a next step, I am planning to try different IVs - Dark LED, CEN, passive transformer, and maybe tube stage. Any ideas on what else can significantly improve the sound?
My first impression is that my old PS Audio PWD fed from the same Ian's stack via HDMI I2S sounds significantly better in all areas - more definition, cleaner deeper bass, more extended highs, cleaner and wider soundstage, etc.
As a next step, I am planning to try different IVs - Dark LED, CEN, passive transformer, and maybe tube stage. Any ideas on what else can significantly improve the sound?
The LM6171 is a sorta of better sounding nice to the hear than old op5534. It was often talked at a drop replacement of the 5534 w/o tweaking parts arounds.
If you read the thread there are some advices about the parts to mod, actives and passives. It is more important that one thinks.
After the logical thing is to try some other op amp that support stilll to be socketed as well as the LM6171, not so evident. the opa1655and 4998-1, AD711 is maybe the step after without harder tweak. Then comes all the mods with dedicated PCBS : opa861, AD811, tube, traffo... I 'll try in that order.
On the front side, you can also if at hand try the I2StoPCM IanCanada board that handles the logic instead of the registers. I think it has the clock stop option and you may or not hear a difference. (some prefer for instance a direct stream from an I2StoPCB that can handle the logic too - JLS USB to I2s, but the IanCanada is better thanks to the Crysteks or better fento crystal choice.
Try to drop a nearer picture of the ad1862 board too in order some can see more details about the parts, maybe some will be inspirered (everyone has his own sauce)
If you read the thread there are some advices about the parts to mod, actives and passives. It is more important that one thinks.
After the logical thing is to try some other op amp that support stilll to be socketed as well as the LM6171, not so evident. the opa1655and 4998-1, AD711 is maybe the step after without harder tweak. Then comes all the mods with dedicated PCBS : opa861, AD811, tube, traffo... I 'll try in that order.
On the front side, you can also if at hand try the I2StoPCM IanCanada board that handles the logic instead of the registers. I think it has the clock stop option and you may or not hear a difference. (some prefer for instance a direct stream from an I2StoPCB that can handle the logic too - JLS USB to I2s, but the IanCanada is better thanks to the Crysteks or better fento crystal choice.
Try to drop a nearer picture of the ad1862 board too in order some can see more details about the parts, maybe some will be inspirered (everyone has his own sauce)
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