It's always fun. That's why we do it. This hobby, to me. is not about saving money or having the best product. It's about creating something and then enjoying it. I'd rather listen to an audiosteve than a Yamaha or a Sony or other commercial gear an day of the week. My goal, with a few excepetions, is to have every bit of my system made by me.
For the already too expensive and difficult to obtain PCM63, the relatively inexpensive PCM1702 + adapter PCM1702/PCM63 can be used for the first start-up and later all kinds of tests and experimentation. Everything works without any changes, and it doesn't sound bad, on the contrary. Everything together with adapters costs approx. $100 on ebay.
It's not a problem to regret a few hundred $ in the form of burned PCM63, but the problem is to find a new pair. 🙄
It's not a problem to regret a few hundred $ in the form of burned PCM63, but the problem is to find a new pair. 🙄
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Everything in my main systen is made by me except the turntable and I've modified it by moving the transformer and power supply out of the turntable and replacing the regulator with a better design.
There are some cheaper options for testing PCM63 DAC boards, but without PCM63 (AD1860 & PCM56). So when everything works, then the precious PCM63s are stuck, to enjoy the full capacity of this chip. 😎
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003303240071.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003303240071.html
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Hi all,
How high can be the I/U resistor value for the AD1862 dac board?
Is there any limit? Can I use let's say 4k resistor?
How high can be the I/U resistor value for the AD1862 dac board?
Is there any limit? Can I use let's say 4k resistor?
Bought an already built DAC and input board from @zoom777 about a month ago, as I have seen much fanfare about these designs and wanted to hear it for myself. Was hesitant and inexperienced in working with mains power, wiring transformers and power supplies. Asked zoom777 for guidance on that and he has been most patient with me, very gracious with his time. Truly it's the sort of experience that reinforces what makes this hobby so great.
It is a wonderful DAC indeed, musical throughout the spectrum, very holographic. Much gratitude to @miro1360 for sharing it with this community.
Here is my build. Working in a temp chassis. Few odds and ends still needed, but making good music 🙂.
It is a wonderful DAC indeed, musical throughout the spectrum, very holographic. Much gratitude to @miro1360 for sharing it with this community.
Here is my build. Working in a temp chassis. Few odds and ends still needed, but making good music 🙂.
Please refer to post #1. Miro has listed the output levels that one would need and the resistor values that will set the desired output level.
As long as your supply can handle it, you have the math to calculate output Vp-p. Do note that with bigger resistor you get worse results (more distorsion and noise).
.... not saying rhat if the resistor is very big and you get for illustration 80 Volts it can kill you or definitly damage your ears.
I am finally trying to get moving to complete my second AD1862 Miro dac build. On my first I used the shift registers and a Waveio usb to i2s to feed the dac with no filters as specified by Miro, sounds spectacular. On this second build I plan on reusing an older JLSounds (v1.2 ?) usb to i2s board to feed the DAC board bypassing the shift registers using the attached diagram as guidance. In this new build I have already installed the shift converters to keep flexibility in case I want to use some other input device in the future. Can I leave the shift registers in place and just plug in the JLSounds inputs to the proper spots on the board bypassing the registers without any issues ? When I get this second build working I plan to use it to try using some different IV stages and filters to see if it sounds different than my original filter less build.
Thanks
Thanks
