Thanks Dave! Putting it on the list but first, have to order some more parts to get some F6 monsterblocks up and running. Going to be good times when I get them paired up with these Halcyons.
I am happy to hear that you are getting sound in your room that you are happy with.
I noticed a huge improvement with 3 1/2" thick absorbers with a 1/2" air gap throughout my room. I am under the general rule of 15% of surfaces covered by absorption but what I have has made a huge difference.
The nice thing about the tall ceilings that you have is that you don't have to worry about that first reflection point as much. The reflected sound is further separated from the direct sound which your brain will understand easier.
The F6 can produce a crazy amount of detail. It produces tiny sounds and portrays the space of the recording very well. You will really hear a difference in your sources with this amp. When ever I change something in my setup, the F6 never seems to be the bottleneck...
I noticed a huge improvement with 3 1/2" thick absorbers with a 1/2" air gap throughout my room. I am under the general rule of 15% of surfaces covered by absorption but what I have has made a huge difference.
The nice thing about the tall ceilings that you have is that you don't have to worry about that first reflection point as much. The reflected sound is further separated from the direct sound which your brain will understand easier.
The F6 can produce a crazy amount of detail. It produces tiny sounds and portrays the space of the recording very well. You will really hear a difference in your sources with this amp. When ever I change something in my setup, the F6 never seems to be the bottleneck...
Thanks for the encouraging words regarding the F6es coupled to the Halcyons. I'm so looking forward to getting them up and running. And since I DIYed the speaker+amp part of the system, I've got all sorts of avenues for upgrades and testing. Not sure what my 1st upgrade will be but I went bottom of the line on the xover components so maybe. Or maybe I'll dig up my old acoustics books and refresh some lost knowledge and reinforce it with some empirical data. Many times, cheaper than the component bling.
I still haven't tested the polarity to see if it is driving the dip at 500Hz. Hoping to get that tested in a bit.
I still haven't tested the polarity to see if it is driving the dip at 500Hz. Hoping to get that tested in a bit.
If you want to go deep into room acoustics, look up Anthony Grimani on Youtube AV Pro and Audioholics. Although his focus is on home theater, he states that it all still pretty much applies to 2-channel. He builds some of the most expensive rooms and has won a lot of CEDIA awards. I believe there is at least 12 hours of content between the two channels. Also, he is still very active so the information is current.
If you like the sound decay in your listening room, you may want to look into diffusers vs absorption. Although absorption does help your hear the little details, diffusers will help to scatter out the peaks and nulls while helping to maintain the sense of space that your room presents.
Best of luck.
If you like the sound decay in your listening room, you may want to look into diffusers vs absorption. Although absorption does help your hear the little details, diffusers will help to scatter out the peaks and nulls while helping to maintain the sense of space that your room presents.
Best of luck.
Swapped the polarity on the MarkAudios. The peaky dip at 500 Hz went away but then got some changes between 125-250Hz. Probably need to pull everything and verify the wiring against the schematic. Learning to work with serial xovers as they present differently than the parallel I'm used to.
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There must be a way of knowing for sure whether you have the polarity correct. Does the battery test work in this situation?
6sX7, something changed since your measurement yesterday and there are too many differences to trust a comparison. See if you can take the two measurements one after the other.
I attempted a AA battery test when I first wired them up but couldn't discern movement. Reasoning that even with the resistor in parallel with the cap to the Alpair, it wasn't seeing enough DC voltage to really move so I gave up and just used the continuity checker on a DMM to make sure the right xover pads were wired to the right driver tabs. With alanhuth's inquiry I got over my apprehension and grabbed a 9V battery. The woofers definitely hit their limits but I did get enough movement in the Alpairs to find out they are now wired out of phase with the woofers. I had it wired correctly to begin with.
I'll get them switched back today but won't be able to test more until next weekend. Need to get the F6s an inch closer to operating.
I wonder if this might have to do with the driver spacing or a floor reflection of some sort. Something to investigate and figure out.
I'll get them switched back today but won't be able to test more until next weekend. Need to get the F6s an inch closer to operating.
I wonder if this might have to do with the driver spacing or a floor reflection of some sort. Something to investigate and figure out.
Got a more rigourous test setup done this morning. iPhone 8 running AudioTools set at the listening position (114" slant range from speakers) using internal mic pointed at the stereo rack at ear height (36"). The FFT function of Audiotools was used with peak hold and 1/3 octave smooving. JRiver's MediaCenter generated the pink noise. Pictures of setup attached. Frequency response plots to follow.
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thank you very much!
I'm still learning the tool and found out I only captured as a screen shot instead of ASCII data. Stuff has progressed so much since I last was deeply involved with the hobby. Pop's is sending me an o-scope and I'm excited about getting a reference mic.
I'm still learning the tool and found out I only captured as a screen shot instead of ASCII data. Stuff has progressed so much since I last was deeply involved with the hobby. Pop's is sending me an o-scope and I'm excited about getting a reference mic.
Are you measuring the pair or one tower?
How about moving one to the middle of the room, placed on a stand, and facing a corner, then measure it alone.
Measuring the pair in situ together is a wash.
Wolf
How about moving one to the middle of the room, placed on a stand, and facing a corner, then measure it alone.
Measuring the pair in situ together is a wash.
Wolf
Unsure what you mean by "placed on a stand" but my next step is to do the rest. Planning to do some nearfield, single speaker measurements later in the week. Need to read up on protocols as I have forgotten much.
If by "placed on a stand" is meant to elevate the woofers to reduce floor coupling, any suggestions on how high and if it'd be better to orient on the side?
the idea is to maximize the distance to any solid surface. The longer that is the lower you can accurately measure.
dave
dave
Got it and thanks! Now I gotta go figure out what is possible with what I have on hand. Good times!