Commercial Projector Ballast Bypass Guide

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#102
So, I'm having some trouble identifying which part of my projector is the ballast and which wires are going to it. Based on the schematics it looks like the ballast is somewhere in here.

The 2 thick gray wires go around the projector to the bulb. The three white wires go from one small board to the other.

Any guesses on which part of this is the ballast? Or should I be looking somewhere else?
 

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#104
The Ballast is the board that has the two large wires that go to the lamp. I beleive that the connector you are looking for is the one with the clear plastic see through jacket located Just under the "IR" letters in the 3 wires connect red text on your picture.

Bohanna
 
#105
Ok, that was my guess too, one of the 3 white wires then, specifically the one with the clear jacket? And I just run this wire to ground? I am going to put my mm on there tonight and check for the 3.5v. Although the wiring diagram seems to indicate there is a 5v, but not a 3.5v.
 
#109
toshiba tlp s10

hi
I have this projector and need ballest voltage in and outgoing information , from how many voltage are coming to lamp balest adapter and then how many voltage are going to bulb . i want to modification with XENON HID KIT SATZ H1 6000k


i have modification the lamp reflector .
 
#112
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diy-...ercial-projector-ballast-bypass-guide-10.html

check out from about post 92 on and read the notes,,,, Even though you have a bigger model You should have the same little jumper cable on your sanyo. Good luck with the LED. Make sure you are going to use the cree's . also look into "electrodacus" on you tube

He gives a great explanation of how the LEDs need to be a tight beam to work. You may also want to consider seperate LED'd for each of the three LCD panels to get more light out of the projector.

Good luck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1pkCavwGgA

Bohanna
 
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#115
Has anyone had to defeat a thermal sensor? I am working with a dlp projector and I have this last sensor board to fool. I tried putting it next to different heat sources to get it to work and read the ohms of resistance at the right temp but so far I have not had any luck.
Flickr: CGIAnimated's Photostream

At room temp I measure 11 ohms of resistance and with the sensor on a cup of hot coffee, then near a candle. I got it down to 5 ohms but I could not get the projector to power up properly without the red temp light coming on.

there are 4 wires and Im not sure how i should go about splicing in a resistor to simulate the right temp.
 
#118
Hey,

I try to bypass the ballast on the LP820. What I did so far:

1. Projector shutted down after 30 Seconds with message "retrying"
2. I bridged grey and black on the cable that comes from the mainboard and goes to the ballast, the projector now stays on without searching and i get a picture from my input device, but still after 30 seconds the lamp goes off, no error on the display
3. I tried to bridge other colors without luck

What can I do? Is ballast removal an option?

Thanks a lot for the help!

best regards,
Andreas

P.S.: Service Manual infocus LP815-820_ServiceManual
 
#119
My lamp control board is an OSRAM that uses UART communication with the mainboard. It is a 5-pin. Some of you had 5-pins as well. My crude understanding is 3-pins check "Logic levels." 5-pins, mine anyway, are UART communication.

I excerpted a page from the pdf and emailed it to a guy from youtube that seemed to know his stuff---He basically said it can't be done---I don't buy that. Im holding/looking at my control board with the 3 optocoupler's (Photo-transistors), 2-pin power, 5-pin comm and I'm thinking crazyguy's method is on the right track.

here's THE PIC WITH PINOUT! Someone PLEASE follow up.

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a621/melgibson377/osrm_zps90500982.jpg
 
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