• Disclaimer: This Vendor's Forum is a paid-for commercial area. Unlike the rest of diyAudio, the Vendor has complete control of what may or may not be posted in this forum. If you wish to discuss technical matters outside the bounds of what is permitted by the Vendor, please use the non-commercial areas of diyAudio to do so.

Commercial Gainclone kit- building instructions

Jump to Latest
#941
erikindre said:
Hi,
My question is; since there are no isolation between the metal chassis and the connector, I think I will get the same signal level ground on both connectors, and also a common connection to the grounding, right? This can't be good I guess?

Do I need to buy some new isolated connectors, or can I use these somehow?
Click to expand...

You will need to isolate the connector from the chassis. If you can find fiber shoulder washers that fit the jacks, that will work. Otherwise buy better jacks - most people use gold plated jacks that come with insulating washers.
 
#942
#943
erikindre said:
Hi,
I am yet another newbee, and have just ordered my kit and a transformer + some parts from RS electronics in Norway.

The phono connectors I have orderd is this type: | Connectors | Audio or Video | Phono Connectors | Phono Connectors

My question is; since there are no isolation between the metal chassis and the connector, I think I will get the same signal level ground on both connectors, and also a common connection to the grounding, right? This can't be good I guess?

Do I need to buy some new isolated connectors, or can I use these somehow?
Click to expand...

The other option would be mounting RCAs on non metal plate first (plastic or similar) and then attaching such assembly to the rest of the chassis.
 
#945
Hey guys,

I'm sad to inform u that disaster has struck 🙁 After playing beautifully for several weeks this went wrong. While listening to some loud music suddenly a loud buzz sounded from my right speaker. I quickly shut the amp off. When I looked inside the input wire had made connection with one of the rectifiers on the power board. Looking backwards I have been to sloppy with some of the wires that carry no sleeving. Lesson learned, now for the repair 😉

I just did some measurements, here are the results:
- 34V between V+ and PG+ (seems fine)
- 34V between V- and PG- (seems fine)
- 32.8V offset between the speaker posts with no load (seems huge, the other channel measures 48mV)
- 2V offset between the speak posts with load (seems high, the other channel measures 30mV)

From my measurements I conclude that the damage must be on the amplifier board itself. Since there is not much there (2 caps, 3 resistors and the chip my best guess is that the chip is fried. What do u guys think? Any way I can verify this by measuring?

Thanks!
Regards,
Erik
 
#946
Finaly finished

I've just finished my first project.It plays wonderful.
Here some photos:
 

Attachments

  • Picture 109.jpg
    Picture 109.jpg
    688.4 KB · Views: 588
  • Picture 110.jpg
    Picture 110.jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 548
  • Picture 113.jpg
    Picture 113.jpg
    359.3 KB · Views: 541
#947
erikdebier said:
Hey guys,

I'm sad to inform u that disaster has struck 🙁 After playing beautifully for several weeks this went wrong. While listening to some loud music suddenly a loud buzz sounded from my right speaker. I quickly shut the amp off. When I looked inside the input wire had made connection with one of the rectifiers on the power board. Looking backwards I have been to sloppy with some of the wires that carry no sleeving. Lesson learned, now for the repair 😉

I just did some measurements, here are the results:
- 34V between V+ and PG+ (seems fine)
- 34V between V- and PG- (seems fine)
- 32.8V offset between the speaker posts with no load (seems huge, the other channel measures 48mV)
- 2V offset between the speak posts with load (seems high, the other channel measures 30mV)

From my measurements I conclude that the damage must be on the amplifier board itself. Since there is not much there (2 caps, 3 resistors and the chip my best guess is that the chip is fried. What do u guys think? Any way I can verify this by measuring?

Thanks!
Regards,
Erik
Click to expand...

I think you need to replace your chip.
 
#948
Can someone tell me why I can't reach fully output power/55W or so)? With cd player on I measured around 10V.I think that is 16W with 6ohm speaker.So I need to turn volume up to 50-60% to listen the music.
I'm using Peter's boards with recommended parts(22K,680R,220R,50K pot).
 
#955
10Vac output from 400mVac input indicates a gain of 25times ~+28dB.
That seems to fit the normal gain from a chipamp.

If you want more output voltage you need to supply more input voltage.

I usually measure <2Vac at the output of my amplifiers, when playing music.
 
#957
new gainclone builder

Hi Peter,

I bought the pre kit and now have problem with one channel, one offset is 7mV while the other is -35mV.
I am using the SG ground and OG ground as you demonstrated.
The V+ and V- seemed OK. I am using a 50K pot, two amp boards are
the same and there is not anything more to check? Is the chip fried?

Regards,
Jason
 
#959
Peter

After successfully completing my first chip amp, i am now looking to build a second amp with a slightly better design. i.e. better case/layout.

I have a set of KEF Q5 speakers which support Biamping, i.e. seperate binding posts for HF/LF.

Have you got a guide/any advice for bi amping and would you use different components on the amp pcb for the high and low frequency channels?

Regards

Dan
 
#960
Wrong resistors?

Hi,

Received my kit a few days ago. Just started on the soldering.

The R3 resistors in my kit seems to be 751 ohm, not 680 as mentioned in the building instructions. (violet, green, brown, brown). Is this the correct resistors, or have I mixed up something?

By the way: Great service Peter! The "samples" package went through the customs without any tax demands 😉


Regards

Erik
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom