The numbers are fine, and if your source is AC coupled you don't need to do anything else.
You can have inputs DC blocked from the pot and the offset still changes. To have the offset steady, you need coupling caps between volume pot and the amp.
You can have inputs DC blocked from the pot and the offset still changes. To have the offset steady, you need coupling caps between volume pot and the amp.
Those caps doesnt choke the "air" of the signal? If not, any reading in the thread for those?
Thanks
Nick
Every cap will "choke" out something, but if you have DC they are not an option, but necessity. You can read about them here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audi...ne-kit-building-instructions.html#post1508778
Hi Nick,
Is your baseplate covered with something like a paper or some other coating? it looks kind of brown so it has me wondering. If it is this should be removed at least where you will ground it. Then your ground leads need to be attached with a bolt and nut to the baseplate. They cant just be sandwiched between two pieces like that. If they are lucky enough to wiggle free you may hurt yourself the next time you touch the chassis.
What is that strip across the top of the toroid?
Uriah
Is your baseplate covered with something like a paper or some other coating? it looks kind of brown so it has me wondering. If it is this should be removed at least where you will ground it. Then your ground leads need to be attached with a bolt and nut to the baseplate. They cant just be sandwiched between two pieces like that. If they are lucky enough to wiggle free you may hurt yourself the next time you touch the chassis.
What is that strip across the top of the toroid?
Uriah
Hi Uriah
Whell actually is juts aluminum anodized gold, no paper covers or something.
The spade (once again hehe) is not actually sandwiched as it looks for the first look.
Actually ther will be a bottom bolt when the cover will be mounted. But i get you point about safety. i will drill a new hole.
The strip is just a 12 v led strip.
Since the top cover will be sanded dark red plexiglass it will light up to give just an effect.
Nick
Whell actually is juts aluminum anodized gold, no paper covers or something.
The spade (once again hehe) is not actually sandwiched as it looks for the first look.
Actually ther will be a bottom bolt when the cover will be mounted. But i get you point about safety. i will drill a new hole.
The strip is just a 12 v led strip.
Since the top cover will be sanded dark red plexiglass it will light up to give just an effect.
Nick
Peter
As far as the electrolytic cap on the pot for Dc, which is the right polarity?
+ goes to the In and - to the circuit
Nick
Nick
thats right. And if you put one on the output of the amp the + goes towards the amp and the - towards the speaker.
If you are putting a cap in the signal stick with film caps or PIO caps that are bipolar. You will hear them less than you will the electrolytic except for the odd rarity.
Relcaps are nice in the signal. Thats 'Reliable Capacitor'. Also Hovland are nice. These are kind of expensive but not nearly as much so as you could pay for some of the really high end caps. If you dont spend money on this cap you will wish it was out of your system.
Uriah
thats right. And if you put one on the output of the amp the + goes towards the amp and the - towards the speaker.
If you are putting a cap in the signal stick with film caps or PIO caps that are bipolar. You will hear them less than you will the electrolytic except for the odd rarity.
Relcaps are nice in the signal. Thats 'Reliable Capacitor'. Also Hovland are nice. These are kind of expensive but not nearly as much so as you could pay for some of the really high end caps. If you dont spend money on this cap you will wish it was out of your system.
Uriah
Hi guys,
Just wanted all of you to know that my amp has been running for the last couple of weeks with great results! Thanks Peter and others for helping me out
I will post some pictures as soon as I get my hand on a decent camera.
Next project will be to build a Lightspeed attenuator as I am currently using my laptop to control the volume while bypassing my audiosector USB dac
Here's a small question for you all, does it make sense to combine a buffer with the lightspeed attenuator while using an audiosector dac and amp? Or will my system ony benefit if I'm using another source?
(The setup I'm aiming for is the following: Laptop -> Audiosector dac -> lightspeed attenuator -> Pass B1 buffer(?) -> Audiosector LM3875 amp -> Impulse 54 TL speakers)
Cheers
Erik
Just wanted all of you to know that my amp has been running for the last couple of weeks with great results! Thanks Peter and others for helping me out
I will post some pictures as soon as I get my hand on a decent camera. Next project will be to build a Lightspeed attenuator as I am currently using my laptop to control the volume while bypassing my audiosector USB dac
Here's a small question for you all, does it make sense to combine a buffer with the lightspeed attenuator while using an audiosector dac and amp? Or will my system ony benefit if I'm using another source?
(The setup I'm aiming for is the following: Laptop -> Audiosector dac -> lightspeed attenuator -> Pass B1 buffer(?) -> Audiosector LM3875 amp -> Impulse 54 TL speakers)
Cheers
Erik
Peter and Erik,
I can comment on this from experience. The Lightspeed is fine by itself and I have also tried it with a buffer. Both of these tries on a LM3886 amp. They drive the chip amp with ease and sound wonderful. Again, I prefer WITHOUT the buffer and I agree with Peter that it would be even better if you put the Lightspeed directly on the amp but that is the case with ANY pot. The closer to the amp the better. You can build the Lightspeed directly on the amps input pads. Then use great interconnects and you will be in heaven
Uriah
I can comment on this from experience. The Lightspeed is fine by itself and I have also tried it with a buffer. Both of these tries on a LM3886 amp. They drive the chip amp with ease and sound wonderful. Again, I prefer WITHOUT the buffer and I agree with Peter that it would be even better if you put the Lightspeed directly on the amp but that is the case with ANY pot. The closer to the amp the better. You can build the Lightspeed directly on the amps input pads. Then use great interconnects and you will be in heaven
Uriah
usual amp project?
Hi-
i have reviewed this thread as well as the ampsector website.
i think this project may work for me, but i would gladly accept advice, or even pragmatic "you can't do it"s, since what i'm trying to accomplish is not typical of the goal of most people building DIY amplifiers.
I am an experimental electronic musician doing live improvisation performance as well as occasional art gallery installations and creative home recordings.
over the years i've used keyboard amps and such, though often blowing the tweeters and having to go through the byzantine process of trying to hunt down d/c-ed parts etc. commercial amps are ugly (imo), and they're heavy and expensive. i'm at a point where i need to invest again in my live sound reinforcement, but i would like to try something different and apply my modest DIY experience to that task. i can curate the appearance if i do DIY, as well as replace parts with much greater ease.
my fantasy is to play live in 4 channels. i'd like to build very small cabinets (but provide as much range as possible) that are in essence "combos" - 4 separate speaker+amp combos. ideally because of playing live with drummers i need some power. i thought perhaps about wiring the amps/cabinets to be able to "daisychain",with a patch cable or something similar, a mono signal into all four combos, or a stereo signal into 2 and 2 combos. this way when the situation calls for it i could get more power than a crazy 4-way surround set up.
I'll distill my questions------
it sounds like connecting one of these "gainclone" kits to 8 ohm speakers i could conceivably get 50-60 watts per channel/amp?
is this possible? does making amp "combos" provide logistical problems i may not be considering?
does the main amp IC need to be screwed to metal for heat and grounding purposes? my combos would be made of wood for sure.
do you know of very small yet powerful full range speakers/tweeters that would be compatible with theses amps?
i would use entirely 1/4" phone jacks for all of my audio connections. i theory, my "daisy chain" idea would be aux phone jacks on each combo to pass the signal along to each amp.
thanks in advance for your help.......
tom
Hi-
i have reviewed this thread as well as the ampsector website.
i think this project may work for me, but i would gladly accept advice, or even pragmatic "you can't do it"s, since what i'm trying to accomplish is not typical of the goal of most people building DIY amplifiers.
I am an experimental electronic musician doing live improvisation performance as well as occasional art gallery installations and creative home recordings.
over the years i've used keyboard amps and such, though often blowing the tweeters and having to go through the byzantine process of trying to hunt down d/c-ed parts etc. commercial amps are ugly (imo), and they're heavy and expensive. i'm at a point where i need to invest again in my live sound reinforcement, but i would like to try something different and apply my modest DIY experience to that task. i can curate the appearance if i do DIY, as well as replace parts with much greater ease.
my fantasy is to play live in 4 channels. i'd like to build very small cabinets (but provide as much range as possible) that are in essence "combos" - 4 separate speaker+amp combos. ideally because of playing live with drummers i need some power. i thought perhaps about wiring the amps/cabinets to be able to "daisychain",with a patch cable or something similar, a mono signal into all four combos, or a stereo signal into 2 and 2 combos. this way when the situation calls for it i could get more power than a crazy 4-way surround set up.
I'll distill my questions------
it sounds like connecting one of these "gainclone" kits to 8 ohm speakers i could conceivably get 50-60 watts per channel/amp?
is this possible? does making amp "combos" provide logistical problems i may not be considering?
does the main amp IC need to be screwed to metal for heat and grounding purposes? my combos would be made of wood for sure.
do you know of very small yet powerful full range speakers/tweeters that would be compatible with theses amps?
i would use entirely 1/4" phone jacks for all of my audio connections. i theory, my "daisy chain" idea would be aux phone jacks on each combo to pass the signal along to each amp.
thanks in advance for your help.......
tom
Anybody can build those amps. If they fail, I offer free troubleshooting, just cover the postage.
You are correct about power output.
Amp "combos" is a good idea if you expect different requirements for given situations.
The amp chip requires heat dissipation so attaching it to a metal heat sink is needed.
For driver suggestions it's best to check speaker building section of the forum.
You are correct about power output.
Amp "combos" is a good idea if you expect different requirements for given situations.
The amp chip requires heat dissipation so attaching it to a metal heat sink is needed.
For driver suggestions it's best to check speaker building section of the forum.
Hi, I'm new to this massive forum. I have read some and am not a complete newbie. I would like to build a P. Daniel lm3875 kit. I'm a little new to the ac/rectifier thing. I have access to two 12-0-12 trafos, 4 amps each. I want to drive two 8 ohm speakers. Is htere away to use these trafos for this amp kit? And if yes, could you point me to the thread for the rectifier configuration?
Hi, you can find info on converting dual secondaries to CT here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip...oid-wiring-peter-daniels-kit.html#post1196283
2 x 12V is a bit low, but you can still use them with those kits.
2 x 12V is a bit low, but you can still use them with those kits.
You could use one transformer to provide 24VAC for V+ and the other transformer to provide 24VAC for V-. This configuration would use one rectifier board and should be entirely equivalent to the use of one transformer with two secondary windings.
Isolated phono connectors?
Hi,
I am yet another newbee, and have just ordered my kit and a transformer + some parts from RS electronics in Norway.
The phono connectors I have orderd is this type: | Connectors | Audio or Video | Phono Connectors | Phono Connectors
My question is; since there are no isolation between the metal chassis and the connector, I think I will get the same signal level ground on both connectors, and also a common connection to the grounding, right? This can't be good I guess?
Do I need to buy some new isolated connectors, or can I use these somehow?
Regards
Erik
Hi,
I am yet another newbee, and have just ordered my kit and a transformer + some parts from RS electronics in Norway.
The phono connectors I have orderd is this type: | Connectors | Audio or Video | Phono Connectors | Phono Connectors
My question is; since there are no isolation between the metal chassis and the connector, I think I will get the same signal level ground on both connectors, and also a common connection to the grounding, right? This can't be good I guess?
Do I need to buy some new isolated connectors, or can I use these somehow?
Regards
Erik