Power LED from 12v supply, standard LED with 1K 1/4 Watt resistor in series across the 12v supply pins.
Thanks for the info. Just got my 48v smps, so I will be returning the 24v one.
Très beau travail ! Very nice job !
Please tell us more about your enclosure, perhaps a link, seems like the perfect size and it has ventilation (harder to find)
Enjoy
Eric
Please tell us more about your enclosure, perhaps a link, seems like the perfect size and it has ventilation (harder to find)
Enjoy
Eric
Hi Eric, indeed this enclosure is perfect for any kind of project. You can DIY whatever you want inside : double mono / TPA / large Boards etc...
The quality is excellent and the price absoluterly great !
It comes "ready to use"
checkout :
100% Aluminium enclosure
311x220x90mm
Boitier amplificateur DIY 100% Aluminium 311x220x90mm - Audiophonics
A cabinet for a friend's hypex, alongwith harness. The RCA and speaker terminals aren't the best - only had these to hand. With no option to get new ones because of the lockdown here.
Happy to make more if anyone wants it. PM if so.
Happy to make more if anyone wants it. PM if so.
Attachments
Hi
After 1 year listening and using as a DIY "reference" i decided to give my TPA3251EVM a small case before it is in the cupboard or laying around.😉
i got that board when the discount over the TI code was enabled- its about 95Euro😀😉.
housing is a Galaxy Maggiorato GX383 330 x 230 mm -maybe a bit too compact but it is ok.
Meanwell LRS36/350 -set to 34V. connection is done over the RCA connectors under the pcb via a RG178 mini coax cable.
i use a mute switch to avoid on/off pop. for this is set the on board switch to normal but solder in parallel a other switch to set "Mute on/off". I do not need the max power of that board because at home the setup is ok for that. sound is really very good.
Any updates for improving sound quality are welcome. if you know a better sounding Class D amp give me some ideas.(150-200Euro)
chris
edit..... last pic was missing
After 1 year listening and using as a DIY "reference" i decided to give my TPA3251EVM a small case before it is in the cupboard or laying around.😉
i got that board when the discount over the TI code was enabled- its about 95Euro😀😉.
housing is a Galaxy Maggiorato GX383 330 x 230 mm -maybe a bit too compact but it is ok.
Meanwell LRS36/350 -set to 34V. connection is done over the RCA connectors under the pcb via a RG178 mini coax cable.
i use a mute switch to avoid on/off pop. for this is set the on board switch to normal but solder in parallel a other switch to set "Mute on/off". I do not need the max power of that board because at home the setup is ok for that. sound is really very good.
Any updates for improving sound quality are welcome. if you know a better sounding Class D amp give me some ideas.(150-200Euro)
chris
edit..... last pic was missing
Attachments
Last edited:
Find a img sta 1000d. They cost 400 € new, but cheaper used. I have two bought used for 200 each. I also have tpa3251 from sinewave, but prefer sta 1000d
IMG STA 1000D is equiped with Pascal Class D boards. (ex Icepower engineer)
I've heard very great opinions about it
Here a picture of the 2000D from inside, I guess the 1000D should have the same architecture...
Last edited:
I would go without any doubt for the IMG Stageline 800D, Hypex, double Mono Board. you can find it used for less than $300 wihich is a BIG
DEAL ) It is more compact than the 1000D (1U vs 2U) and the the cooling system is quieter
Last edited:
Thanks guys
i will try the get a 800D for testing... power is not so important at home. i interesting is excellent SQ.
chris
i will try the get a 800D for testing... power is not so important at home. i interesting is excellent SQ.
chris
You can take however take a look here for the Pascal S-PRO2 board :
Signal To Noise-Ratio > 120 dB (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 8 Ω load)
THD+N (typical) < 0.05 % (20 Hz - 20 kHz, 8 Ω load, 3 dB below rated power) that is very good )
S-PRO2 - Pascal Audio
Work in progress - bought the alu case with specific components in mind, then changed my mind about the components and the new components take a it more space 🙂
Now I'll try to make everything fit and see if it works out - if it doesn't (EMI?) I'll have to quote Jaws : "We're going to need a bigger boat" 🙂
Now I'll try to make everything fit and see if it works out - if it doesn't (EMI?) I'll have to quote Jaws : "We're going to need a bigger boat" 🙂
Last edited:
The amp board is a Sure/Wondom ab35281 board:
Sure Electronics AA-AB35281 3x200W Class D Audio Amplifier Board - T-Amp
The power supply is a Connex SMPS600RS:
SMPS600RS | Connex Electronic
This is my second DIY amp, learning as I go along so any insights / warnings / tips are greatly appreciated 🙂
So I had the Hifimediy T4 laying around for a long time. After building a couple of Pass amps I was curious about the sq of this board.
I always first build an amp on a piece of wood before begin the struggle of building it inside a high end case.
Because I had the parts for a linear psu I first used one big capacitor after the rectifier. The sq was okay, not more than that. Today I made a CLCRC filter and fired it up. Now it’s a whole different amp. Sounding much better, more detailed, more open.
Not sure it will stay but for now I’m going to listen to it for a while. In the meantime I also ordered the 3e audio tpa3255 board so that’s going to be the next experiment.
I always first build an amp on a piece of wood before begin the struggle of building it inside a high end case.
Because I had the parts for a linear psu I first used one big capacitor after the rectifier. The sq was okay, not more than that. Today I made a CLCRC filter and fired it up. Now it’s a whole different amp. Sounding much better, more detailed, more open.
Not sure it will stay but for now I’m going to listen to it for a while. In the meantime I also ordered the 3e audio tpa3255 board so that’s going to be the next experiment.
Attachments
Hi peeps,
just a side question - when mounting a SMPS in an alu case - what's the smart way to go about it?
Minimum 5mm standoffs - better 10mm?
Insulation material between the board and the case?
Just wondering what the safest way is to go about my 1st build..
just a side question - when mounting a SMPS in an alu case - what's the smart way to go about it?
Minimum 5mm standoffs - better 10mm?
Insulation material between the board and the case?
Just wondering what the safest way is to go about my 1st build..
Yes on both counts.
Take apart the power supply from a PC and have a look how it's done. That would be the "el-cheapo minimum" for you to follow.
Better safe then sorry, I wouldn’t feel save with 5mm without any isolation. Cheap PCB’s can bent easily because of the weight of the components after a while.
My Douk SMPS is mounted on the heat sink with 5mm standoffs but has some sort thin of insulation between the two. It is very close and only has about 1mm clearance in places.I know Pigmy has a different SMPS but he should go for 10mm and then check the clearance.