I have, but saw your tread, so tought let see what is possible.
Next time I stay there, it is not a new direction here.
regards
Plateamp finally installed in my XLS 12" sub
Finally got around to installing my Class D amp plate amp in my trusty XLS 12 inch vented sub.
Amp running +-60Vdc so power around 300 W into 6 ohm (which is more or less what the driver represents though it is called 8 ohm ... Rdc = 4.7 ohm).
It is based on my own implementation of IRS2092 with both pre and post filter feedback, and a buffer input stage. Fets are IRFB5620.
Protection; Over voltage, under voltage, current, DC.
Box tuned to ca 23 Hz, and works really well, no preamp implemented, as I'll be making the ajustments from the surround amp.
The amp is actually placed in the vent, as it is a flat serpentine implementation
At +-60Vdc and 275 kHz, the output coil based on T106-2 gets to around 45-50 deg.
The whte fluff is for the cables not to rattle.
Finally got around to installing my Class D amp plate amp in my trusty XLS 12 inch vented sub.
Amp running +-60Vdc so power around 300 W into 6 ohm (which is more or less what the driver represents though it is called 8 ohm ... Rdc = 4.7 ohm).
It is based on my own implementation of IRS2092 with both pre and post filter feedback, and a buffer input stage. Fets are IRFB5620.
Protection; Over voltage, under voltage, current, DC.
Box tuned to ca 23 Hz, and works really well, no preamp implemented, as I'll be making the ajustments from the surround amp.
The amp is actually placed in the vent, as it is a flat serpentine implementation
At +-60Vdc and 275 kHz, the output coil based on T106-2 gets to around 45-50 deg.
The whte fluff is for the cables not to rattle.
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Hi Eric, can you share by any chance how the DIY community can find those ICEPower modules available for purchase?
Hi
I simply bought them from a member of this forum. His forum name is : JonBocani
Hope this helps,
Eric
I simply bought them from a member of this forum. His forum name is : JonBocani
Hope this helps,
Eric
Yea something is up with this. You dont get crossover distortion with a class D amp, as its class D, there is no inbetween, either the top mosfet is on, or the bottom one is, and any artefacts in the waveform are the result of the varying time periods of the PWM waveform.
I would do a trace on the signal leading up to the TPA and see what you get.
Just wanted to post a picture of two D-amps with inexpensive SMPS in test configuration.
Both work fine and reliable in this combination. I tested them under load, driving 4 woofers for more than 36 hours at 10V p-p. Nothing gets hot, all temperatures under 45°C measured with an IR termometer.
These amps and SMPS are the cheapest you can find at AliExpress and pay with PayPal.
This is NO final installation! They seem to interferr with FM radio somehow, so please use a metall inclosure.
TDA3116 2x50w
TDA7498e 2x100w
Smps 24v 120w
Smps 32v 180w
Both work fine and reliable in this combination. I tested them under load, driving 4 woofers for more than 36 hours at 10V p-p. Nothing gets hot, all temperatures under 45°C measured with an IR termometer.
These amps and SMPS are the cheapest you can find at AliExpress and pay with PayPal.
This is NO final installation! They seem to interferr with FM radio somehow, so please use a metall inclosure.
TDA3116 2x50w
TDA7498e 2x100w
Smps 24v 120w
Smps 32v 180w
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Here's my build of an SMPS400 and 2x UCD180 with HxR buffers. Enclosure front and rear panels were CNC'd by me. The Aluminium profile is standard 2060 which is available from aliexpress, eBay etc.
You can see some more details here: Enclosure for Hypex amps: 2060 alu profile and CNC work
You can see some more details here: Enclosure for Hypex amps: 2060 alu profile and CNC work
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Finally got my class D 2.1 amp assembled. Inside two TPA3118 boards with gain mod for main channels, one TPA3116 mono amp for subwoofer and a Wondom DSP. Power supply is 24V 5A.
I got frustrated with the poor quality of pre-assembled 2.1 boards and decided to go this way. Of course the costs are bigger, but I'm very happy with the result. No hiss and only a little bit audible whine when not playing music. Might be the supply, need to do some research if I could lower the noise.
I got frustrated with the poor quality of pre-assembled 2.1 boards and decided to go this way. Of course the costs are bigger, but I'm very happy with the result. No hiss and only a little bit audible whine when not playing music. Might be the supply, need to do some research if I could lower the noise.
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i got the same board for my very 1st class d amp. the psu is a little overkill😀😀😀
still waiting for the tube buffer,relay and the bluetooth receiver so i can start working on it.
still waiting for the tube buffer,relay and the bluetooth receiver so i can start working on it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You know you have to use rectivier and capacitors and this will give about DC=AC x 1.45?
18 volt AC will be quite much for this chip.
18 volt AC will be quite much for this chip.
So I start with a TPA3251/3255 pcb, a front end for it and heatsink sliced from a computer heatsink.
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That would probably be worth a shot. The wiring as it is, is probably the worst possible with power and signal wires mixed and crossed 😀
Output relay with a delay would also be good, I'm having quite a thump when powering on and off. I could use the mute on TPA3118s but I think it's not accessible in the TPA3116 board. But no room for that kind of additions 🙁
Hi
i use a small "coax" cable for the imputs
yes at this compact size its a problem to fit everything 😀
chris