Good news is that even Alibaba refunds the laserdots without having to return them. For some aware of anti-counterfeit measures the semiconductor industry took, the TI persons remarks make little sense, other than that no TI employee is allowed to make any statement about authenticity to any of us. The inside creates doubts, the outside fortunately is very clear.
I had the same problem with a build I just completed using the older version of the Chipamp boards (below). I tried everything I could think of with my limited knowledge of electronics and finally ended up putting a 100 Ohm resistor between the signal input and input ground. Completely got rid of the hum and the tiny bit of hiss...and it sounds fantastic! It's probably not the correct solution but it worked for me...ymmv.
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Thanks, doctormord...what value would you recommend?
Just realized my latest build was with the LM3886 and this thread is about the TPA3118. I built one of those prior to the LM3886...don't know why but I get these mixed up. <facepalm>
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Removing hum with 100r input resistor to ground, nothing else...does that mean hum was entirely from signal source, in the signal line ???
Depends a bit on the pot used, if any. You may try 10k and lower if it is not working out right down to like 2k.
After a little bit testing I found the best place to connect signal input ground was at DC in at amp board. Power supply out gave a bit noisier result. I had my boards connected to power supply with separate wire. I assume using single pair and having the DC connection between the boards short might be beneficial. Anyway switching mode power supplies are not that expensive, so I will probably end up using one per board as this gave lowest hiss/hum.
About modding, I would be happy to see some pictures if someone has about using Coilcraft MSS1278-103 on these small boards. I had to remove reverse polarity protecting diode, use copper spacers (solid wire) between the board and coil and a lot of solder to get them to fit without touching other components.
About modding, I would be happy to see some pictures if someone has about using Coilcraft MSS1278-103 on these small boards. I had to remove reverse polarity protecting diode, use copper spacers (solid wire) between the board and coil and a lot of solder to get them to fit without touching other components.
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Which tpa3118 or 3116 to get ?
Hey guys,
So what is the consensus on best sounding tpa3118d2 board
Available at the moment ?
Scott
Hey guys,
So what is the consensus on best sounding tpa3118d2 board
Available at the moment ?
Scott
Consensus 🙂 Closest to consensus probably would be GMarsh Wiener groupbuy boards. GMarsh asks you to think about your speakers befor ordering.
Is he still doing the wiener group buys?
I tried contacting him and got no reply.
Scott
I tried contacting him and got no reply.
Scott
I'm pretty sure he still does them every now and then. They are kinda pricey though, around $100 US I believe. A bit of a far cry from the $2.50 Sanwu boards we talk about all the time. But, I hear they are excellent.
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eBay. They mostly come from China, but there's a guy in California that sells them. They cost more but you get them a lot quicker.
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Any link to the guy in California that sells these?
I can't seem to find it.
Scott
QUOTE=muddyboots;5068720]eBay. They mostly come from China, but there's
a guy in California that sells them. They cost more but you get them a lot quicker.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
I can't seem to find it.
Scott
QUOTE=muddyboots;5068720]eBay. They mostly come from China, but there's
a guy in California that sells them. They cost more but you get them a lot quicker.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
Sort highest price first: $19 and $16 for the ($2.50) Sanwu board. Cloneboards without Sanwu name from $1.20 now.
Wow, I definitely didn't pay that much. The seller is MDFlyelectronics, I dont know if he is still selling them. I paid about $5 per board from that seller.
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