😀 the future never changes, ddx is still the same (JP)
for class AB you'll hopefully learn a little (xrk)(you have jbl305 with futuristic ddx, stop messing with vintage gear)
for class AB you'll hopefully learn a little (xrk)(you have jbl305 with futuristic ddx, stop messing with vintage gear)
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I did not know LSR305 had DDX, I thought it was STI something with built in DSP for the crossover and EQ with 2 channel 40watt amp.
Back to the future, 2002 actually:
Harman Kardon DPR 1001 A/V full digital path receiver with Dolby Digital EX and DTS-ES at Crutchfield.com
Yes lsr305 is same ddx.
Harman Kardon DPR 1001 A/V full digital path receiver with Dolby Digital EX and DTS-ES at Crutchfield.com
Yes lsr305 is same ddx.
3118 PBTL what is the "best mod priority" and is 24v ok?
Hi
ok so have anyone measured "before and after" there "mods" of the 3118 PBTL?
I have 4 of the 3118 PBTL
one that have the load 2 Ohm
one that have the load 3 Ohm
one that have the load 8 Ohm
one that have the load 4 Ohm
can I make this better?
can some one tell me what is the mod-priority? 🙂😕
(and is the R27 recommended to remove?)
can I really use 22-24v? or is it max 14v?
(heatsink?)
(i have 2x 11.6v litium battery to connect and i only used 1+11.6v to this test..)
should I change the C37,c10,c8 and c37 to e-lyte cap:s(330uF/25v) as large as possible (like 8000uF/32v or so)?
i get a popping sound (when power on), can i fix that, and a visoling sound can i fix that??
most i change the L1 and L4? can i leave them?😱
the mute it it recommend to mount a cap even then i don't use this? (can some one please let me know the value?)
the input is it recommend to have a 10k resistor in serie ?🙄
sorry for my Questions i hope Im not afending some one here.🙁
Have a grate day!
best regards Niklas from Sweden
Hi
ok so have anyone measured "before and after" there "mods" of the 3118 PBTL?
I have 4 of the 3118 PBTL
one that have the load 2 Ohm
one that have the load 3 Ohm
one that have the load 8 Ohm
one that have the load 4 Ohm
can I make this better?
can some one tell me what is the mod-priority? 🙂😕
(and is the R27 recommended to remove?)
can I really use 22-24v? or is it max 14v?
(heatsink?) (i have 2x 11.6v litium battery to connect and i only used 1+11.6v to this test..)
should I change the C37,c10,c8 and c37 to e-lyte cap:s(330uF/25v) as large as possible (like 8000uF/32v or so)?
i get a popping sound (when power on), can i fix that, and a visoling sound can i fix that??
most i change the L1 and L4? can i leave them?😱
the mute it it recommend to mount a cap even then i don't use this? (can some one please let me know the value?)
the input is it recommend to have a 10k resistor in serie ?🙄
sorry for my Questions i hope Im not afending some one here.🙁
Have a grate day!
best regards Niklas from Sweden
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Hi
ok so have anyone measured "before and after" there "mods" of the 3118 PBTL?
I have 4 of the 3118 PBTL
one that have the load 2 Ohm
one that have the load 3 Ohm
one that have the load 8 Ohm
one that have the load 4 Ohm
can I make this better?
can some one tell me what is the mod-priority? 🙂😕
(and is the R27 recommended to remove?)
can I really use 22-24v? or is it max 14v?
(i have 2x 11.6v litium battery to connect and i only used 1+11.6v to this test..)
should I change the C37,c10,c8 and c37 to e-lyte cap:s(330uF/25v) as large as possible (like 8000uF/32v or so)?
i get a popping sound (when power on), can i fix that, and a visoling sound can i fix that??
most i change the L1 and L4? can i leave them?😱
the mute it it recommend to mount a cap even then i don't use this? (can some one please let me know the value?)
the input is it recommend to have a 10k resistor in serie ?🙄
sorry for my Questions i hope Im not afending some one here.🙁
Have a grate day!
best regards Niklas from Sweden
i missed.. h have 4 of these.. :
60W TPA3118 PBTL Mono Digital Amplifier Board 12V 24V Car Power Amp Verstärker | eBay
sorry for that..
Those Sanwu 3128 PBTL amps are about as good of a sounding stock amp as you can get. The only mod needed is to remove or swap the gain resistors for something like 26dB. I actually don't mind 32dB if I want to drive it with my phone. Otherwise it works like a charm stock. No changing and inductors or caps.
Ok 🙂
BTW can I "boost" that in signal to real line input?
1mobile in to 4x line in signal ? 😕
I don't understand your question. You want to run line in rated voltages to the amp input? Like RCA level or pro audio mixer console line outs? For RCA levels 26dB is good value. For pro audio mixers 20dB is what you want and that gives best SNR performance with highest impedance.
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Hi
I want to split my mobile signal out: 1"mono" to 4 mono..
i hope i can explain myself 🙂
This will split into 4 stereo channels or 2x8 for $50.
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-HA43PRO-CH-Headphone-Amp/dp/B00102ZOQC
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-HA43PRO-CH-Headphone-Amp/dp/B00102ZOQC
joining the discussion; I bought 4 of the sanwu modules and trying to wire them up in a finished project.
question about the mute pads on the sanwu boards: is it ok to use an SSR to mute the circuit or do I really need a relay there? I prefer a solid state method. mosfet? bjt?
2nd question: I'm hearing some 'swishing' sound from the woofer when all 4 of my modules are wired in parallel and being fed by a 12v/5a laptop brick or even a 24v/3a clean dc linear supply.
I read that some series diodes on the plus Vcc lines may help isolate that. is that really everyone'e experience?
given the low cost of laptop bricks, I may just go back and use a private psu for each of the 4 amp modules. that way its truly all monoblock topology.
use case: active XO on 2 way spkrs, so I do need 4 modules to make that work.
other than the swishing noise from the woofer, I'm pretty happy with the stock modules. not sure what mods to do yet (threads are so full of chatter, it takes hours to find real info) but in stock form, its not a bad amp and no one could complain about the size or cost! I removed my lm3886 4ch chip amp monster and put this in its place. I bet my electricity bill will thank me 😉
question about the mute pads on the sanwu boards: is it ok to use an SSR to mute the circuit or do I really need a relay there? I prefer a solid state method. mosfet? bjt?
2nd question: I'm hearing some 'swishing' sound from the woofer when all 4 of my modules are wired in parallel and being fed by a 12v/5a laptop brick or even a 24v/3a clean dc linear supply.
I read that some series diodes on the plus Vcc lines may help isolate that. is that really everyone'e experience?
given the low cost of laptop bricks, I may just go back and use a private psu for each of the 4 amp modules. that way its truly all monoblock topology.
use case: active XO on 2 way spkrs, so I do need 4 modules to make that work.
other than the swishing noise from the woofer, I'm pretty happy with the stock modules. not sure what mods to do yet (threads are so full of chatter, it takes hours to find real info) but in stock form, its not a bad amp and no one could complain about the size or cost! I removed my lm3886 4ch chip amp monster and put this in its place. I bet my electricity bill will thank me 😉
I also have 4 monoblocks powered from single source but did not get swishing sound. I have checked and each one is set up as a master. What you may be getting is some sort of beat frequency between amps? Or maybe set one up as mater and rest as slave from modulation frequency standpoint. That is a pain to go in a resolder though - easier to get separate PSU bricks.
Solid state switch should be fine as these were designed to be controlled from a MCU with SS switches. Although I have not personally tried it.
Solid state switch should be fine as these were designed to be controlled from a MCU with SS switches. Although I have not personally tried it.
cool, thanks.
given the lost cost of psu bricks, I may just put 4 barrel connectors on my box and go ghetto 😉
it looks stupid that way, but putting the psu's far away is a good thing and by leaving them purely stock, I can use them as spares for laptops and if they break, swap in another one with no chassis mods needed.
it will look stupid having 4 bricks dangling via 4 cords like that. maybe there's a way to dress it up a bit.
psu cost is $10 or so and for $40, maybe I will just use 4 and not have to worry about the noise stuff.
I have not checked into master/slave yet. that's new to me. I'm using the modules bone-stock for right now and prefer to avoid doing mods unless truly needed.
given the lost cost of psu bricks, I may just put 4 barrel connectors on my box and go ghetto 😉
it looks stupid that way, but putting the psu's far away is a good thing and by leaving them purely stock, I can use them as spares for laptops and if they break, swap in another one with no chassis mods needed.
it will look stupid having 4 bricks dangling via 4 cords like that. maybe there's a way to dress it up a bit.
psu cost is $10 or so and for $40, maybe I will just use 4 and not have to worry about the noise stuff.
I have not checked into master/slave yet. that's new to me. I'm using the modules bone-stock for right now and prefer to avoid doing mods unless truly needed.
link to post that has embedded photo:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ing-them-everything-comes-46.html#post4633520
bought 4 boards from a US seller last week. they came as pictured in this post (100k is the key item). removed the 100k and the hiss level is now reasonable and for my diy preamp (cs3318 vol control) the lower gain is a much better match.
removing that 100k was harder than I thought. I'm ok at smd rework but man, that resistor was in there with some serious ground plane or something. took a minute or so for each resistor to remove it using a very good metcal iron. in a way, that's good that the soldering on these blue boards is as good as it is. it really is a great construction given how poorly china does most low-cost boards these days.
I think I'll just remove the 100k from any new boards I get; and I'm planning on buying more of these. its amazing how good this is. I swapped out my lm3886 chip-amp and I'm not looking back 😉
Max input of the 3118 mono pcb
Hi
Does anyone know what the max input is?
800mV ? Or like 2.1V?
Hi
Does anyone know what the max input is?
800mV ? Or like 2.1V?
