Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it

They run filterless in spread spectrum mode with "Maxim Modulation", like 1SPW. Measured them for radiation into RF band, not much to see there. Of course you don't want to have long speaker wires, but up to 150cm (that's what I'd tested) they are fine. Measurements are available on my website.

http://www.360customs.de/en/2015/02/tpa3132d2-vs-max9709-messungen-emiemv/

Pretty neat stuff.

Without filters there no "filter-sound". TI says, filterless gives better audio quality than half or full filter. (Of course the speakers itself acts as the reconstruction filter, so they need some minimal inductance to make the magic work)
 
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Incidentally, the 3118 Sanwu board is pretty tough. I accidentally hooked 12 V bat power to speaker outputs on one board. Red LED lit up so it took a few mins to figure it out. Switched to correct wiring and had no sound. Thought I tried the board but I tried again after some time and presto! The magic smoke is back in the dam board! Am I lucky or what? Oh, the boat/beach boogie speakers are half done. That is one is constructed of wood and wired up, the other is in foam board. Wow, does the wood speaker crank with only 12V bat power. No need to go24V and use the dc-dc converter. I might need it for the two 12 woofers though? Hey, how do you attach the boards to heatsinks? They were getting pretty hot cranked so I tried setting on a fined heatsink and the leads were shorting! Must have to use standoffs and build up the rtv sealnt/adhesive to get the connects away from the sink?
 
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That's a good price in those. They are quite pricey if bought from Digikey or Mouser. There is a larger size for TO-3P transistors that may work better.

I agree Kapton tape is very specialized stuff. It's used a lot in electronics for its heat resistance and excellent electrical insulation properties. You can solder on it and it won't melt. The glue leaves no residue. So for about twice the price of a roll of duct tape it's not a bad deal considering.
 
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Here is the cheapskate way to do it. Find some thin 2mil thick (or whatever needed to prevent contact of back of circuit to heat sink surface) sheets of plastic (for example, packaging from clear blister packs etc). Cut little shim strips with them and use that as a spacer around periphery of PCB to avoid direct contact with heat sink when applying RTV silicone caulking as heat sink compound and adhesive. The shims set the precise thickness to prevent the solder bump to heat sink contact. Once the RTV cures, you can pull the shims out (or leave in).
 
I just built the Apex FX8 amp - it is very small (50mmx50mm board) for a fully discrete thru hole component 100w class AB amp. I am still waiting for the MOSFET output stages to arrive so the ones shown are mockups to get the scale of the device.

My recent experience is that these discrete class AB's sound better than the TPA31xx amps.

541292d1459579850-100w-ultimate-fidelity-amplifier-fx8-built-hand.png

Do you have a link to those 'pcb mount spade-connectors'?
I would like to buy them from aliexpress, but i don't know the correct english term...
 
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