Peter Daniel said:As I said, finished version shouldn't be more than $150. But untill I get a proper quote, I can't really tell. As to female RCAs I like CTFA short, but there is nothing to stop you from using GRFA ( which are actually closer to what I'm using in all my mainstreem projects).
CCBPS is a good choice for the binding post. All holes will be predrilled in a finished version of a chassis and 0.75" distance on 0.50" holes will be a standard.
Aren't the CTFA 3/8" in diameter for the mounting holes, and the GRFA 7/16"?
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Brian
You are probably right, but there is nothing to stop you from using smaller RCAs in bigger holes.😉
Peter Daniel said:You are probably right, but there is nothing to stop you from using smaller RCAs in bigger holes.😉
Very true. I did this for the chassis that I am currently using for my gainclone. I made all the rear holes 7/16" because I was using the Cardas ones on mine. I made an identical chassis for my friend who used the Dayton Audio ones (almost identical to the CTFA), and realized that they fit loose. I just wanted to bring up the consideration of the sizes in case you designed for the CTFA and someone wanted to use the GRFA.
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Brian
Peter,
Are you going to allow for the option of only choosing having one set of RCAs mounted on the back of your chassis, or will they all be drilled for 3 pairs?
Also, would it be possible for you to provide the option of purchasing both the IEC connector, and the rca jacks from you to go along with the chassis?
Where are you putting the AC fuse?
--
Brian
Are you going to allow for the option of only choosing having one set of RCAs mounted on the back of your chassis, or will they all be drilled for 3 pairs?
Also, would it be possible for you to provide the option of purchasing both the IEC connector, and the rca jacks from you to go along with the chassis?
Where are you putting the AC fuse?
--
Brian
that is looking so sweet!
Peter, it looks like we're up to 20 orders on the WIKI...
is the project do-able at this number? Or were you maybe expecting more?
I'm tempted to buy the Cardas binding post you are using... are
they good for spades only?
be careful, or you may be giving your "real" amps a run for their money! 😉
m.
----------------------------------------
posting from beutiful sunny Clearwater, FL
(it's gorgeous here today)
Peter, it looks like we're up to 20 orders on the WIKI...
is the project do-able at this number? Or were you maybe expecting more?
I'm tempted to buy the Cardas binding post you are using... are
they good for spades only?
be careful, or you may be giving your "real" amps a run for their money! 😉
m.
----------------------------------------
posting from beutiful sunny Clearwater, FL
(it's gorgeous here today)

Those posts are good only for spades, but I wouldn't recommend bananas. I believe it's inferior connection.
20pcs is fine already. I will soon open my web site, and I will be offering this and other kits as well, but the price wouldn't be that low, I guess 😉
20pcs is fine already. I will soon open my web site, and I will be offering this and other kits as well, but the price wouldn't be that low, I guess 😉
Actually it was 24 units, including the four unfinished units.
And I just added another chassis for my sister bringing the total up to 25.
Peter -- lookin' great.
And I just added another chassis for my sister bringing the total up to 25.
Peter -- lookin' great.
Re: would I
Actually I'm doing this so I won't burn the plastic sleeve when soldering in tight spots😉
uvodee said:hear any difference when removing the film of the caps I use (mostly panasonic fc )
I supose that is why you do this Peter?
Actually I'm doing this so I won't burn the plastic sleeve when soldering in tight spots😉
Peter,
Looking very good.
But I can't be the only one nervous about the mains wiring running right next to the volume attenuator. How about routing the mains up the middle, underneath the plate that holds the amp boards? Since that plate is at earth ground, should provide excellent shielding.
Looking very good.
But I can't be the only one nervous about the mains wiring running right next to the volume attenuator. How about routing the mains up the middle, underneath the plate that holds the amp boards? Since that plate is at earth ground, should provide excellent shielding.
I think the orignal plan with the AC inlet under the amp will be better. Then it will isolate the AC entirely form the Amp part....
I like the IEC inlet where it is myself. Putting it underneath will limit greatly the type of power cord used.
Newbie here...I've been reading this thread along with the group-order thread, and I was curious: after everything's been bought, what is a rough total price? $55 for the GC kit, $150 for the chassis, etc.
This would be my first foray into DIY and a "simple" kit seems like it would be a good choice, but I'm also in the midst of completely upgrading my system, so I'm worried about my finances...how long will the group-buy and the chassis be available?
Sorry about the simple questions, but I'm very worried about first attempts at anything, especially since this would put off my Anthem MCA5 purchase, which I could get at cost. Compared to that level of amps, Anthem, Adcom, (even Proceed or Lexicon) how would something like this sound? I'm too young to have been around other DIY-ers enough to have heard anything in real life. 🙁
Thanks guys 🙂
This would be my first foray into DIY and a "simple" kit seems like it would be a good choice, but I'm also in the midst of completely upgrading my system, so I'm worried about my finances...how long will the group-buy and the chassis be available?
Sorry about the simple questions, but I'm very worried about first attempts at anything, especially since this would put off my Anthem MCA5 purchase, which I could get at cost. Compared to that level of amps, Anthem, Adcom, (even Proceed or Lexicon) how would something like this sound? I'm too young to have been around other DIY-ers enough to have heard anything in real life. 🙁
Thanks guys 🙂
Why don't you build the amp first with out the chassis. If you like the sound than go for the chassis.
The amp is done and it's playing. No problems at all, no hum or noise.
I'm very satisfied with the sound quality and actually I didn't expect it to be so good. It has very "organic" sound without any traces of brightness. I partly suspect this is due to an insolated chip case that I used here. PS features 1,500/50 Panasonic FC caps. Will do more comparisons tomorrow. I also didn't observe any ill effect of placing top cover, but I used only 2 screws😉 And those Cards binding posts are very practical, will stay with them from now on.
One complaint that I have is with regards to this Taiwanese volume switcher. Soundwise it seems to be OK, without any obvious sonic signature, but it makes terrible noise when switching: pops and cracks in both channel. It is simply unacceptable, unless of course, you can live with it. I'll be probably looking for dofferent solution. Too bad, as it seemed like a good product.
I'm very satisfied with the sound quality and actually I didn't expect it to be so good. It has very "organic" sound without any traces of brightness. I partly suspect this is due to an insolated chip case that I used here. PS features 1,500/50 Panasonic FC caps. Will do more comparisons tomorrow. I also didn't observe any ill effect of placing top cover, but I used only 2 screws😉 And those Cards binding posts are very practical, will stay with them from now on.
One complaint that I have is with regards to this Taiwanese volume switcher. Soundwise it seems to be OK, without any obvious sonic signature, but it makes terrible noise when switching: pops and cracks in both channel. It is simply unacceptable, unless of course, you can live with it. I'll be probably looking for dofferent solution. Too bad, as it seemed like a good product.
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