Chassis options spreadsheet
That is an excellent idea.
Chassis sizes spreadsheet in Excel format. Enjoy!
Again, note that I only included one set of external dimensions for a given chassis option. External sizes do differ between steel and aluminum chassis and some of the front plate options.
If external or panel sizes are important, please double-check the actual chassis listings on the store.
That is an excellent idea.
Chassis sizes spreadsheet in Excel format. Enjoy!
Again, note that I only included one set of external dimensions for a given chassis option. External sizes do differ between steel and aluminum chassis and some of the front plate options.
If external or panel sizes are important, please double-check the actual chassis listings on the store.
Still can't decide what to order though. lol
I'm looking for a temporary home for an LM1875 chipamp until I can build the chassis I have in mind. Which means it might be living in a temp case for a while...
Are the Quasi plates really sufficient for an LM1875 running at 27V, or should I be looking to something with proper heatsinks?
So I'm thinking tradeoffs between a Slimline 2U vs Dissipante 2U.
FWIW, when the chipamp moves out, a Balanced Zen (BOSOZ) would probably move in. Probably overthinking this and will get more mileage in teh long run from a Dissipante 2U or 3U and, if necessary, a Pesante or similar case for the BOSOZ when she gets built.
Sorry for thinking out loud
I'm looking for a temporary home for an LM1875 chipamp until I can build the chassis I have in mind. Which means it might be living in a temp case for a while...
Are the Quasi plates really sufficient for an LM1875 running at 27V, or should I be looking to something with proper heatsinks?
So I'm thinking tradeoffs between a Slimline 2U vs Dissipante 2U.
FWIW, when the chipamp moves out, a Balanced Zen (BOSOZ) would probably move in. Probably overthinking this and will get more mileage in teh long run from a Dissipante 2U or 3U and, if necessary, a Pesante or similar case for the BOSOZ when she gets built.
Sorry for thinking out loud
This info might also be of some interest to add to a spread sheet:
Disipante Size (depth) Height(mm) °C/W per HS # Heat Sinks per side °C/W per side
2U (300) 80 0.45 1 0.45
2U (400) 80 0.67 2 0.34
3U (300) 120 0.40 1 0.40
3U (400) 120 0.50 2 0.25
4U (300) 165 0.31 1 0.31
4U (400) 165 0.38 2 0.19
5U (300) 210 0.20 1 0.20
5U (400) 210 0.28 2 0.14
Apologies for the formatting but should be easy to decipher - taken from an Excel sheet.
Data from Modu Spares website (albeit some time ago but a quick cross check seems to confirm)
Disipante Size (depth) Height(mm) °C/W per HS # Heat Sinks per side °C/W per side
2U (300) 80 0.45 1 0.45
2U (400) 80 0.67 2 0.34
3U (300) 120 0.40 1 0.40
3U (400) 120 0.50 2 0.25
4U (300) 165 0.31 1 0.31
4U (400) 165 0.38 2 0.19
5U (300) 210 0.20 1 0.20
5U (400) 210 0.28 2 0.14
Apologies for the formatting but should be easy to decipher - taken from an Excel sheet.
Data from Modu Spares website (albeit some time ago but a quick cross check seems to confirm)
Take a look at the attached. Feel free to correct any errors/omissions or make improvements.
Hi, I'd like to put my first amp (a Neurochrome Modulus 86) into a Mini Dissipante. However I'm quite lost at the case part.
For example, I don't understand base plates. They have 10x10 mm holes, right? But every single audio PCB seems to have very different mounting hole dimensions. Definitely not 10x10 mm ones. So how is it even useful for us?
Moreover, how are those beautiful build pictures possible on baseplates (many found on this forum for example), if they are not PCBs with 10x10 mm holes?
For example, I don't understand base plates. They have 10x10 mm holes, right? But every single audio PCB seems to have very different mounting hole dimensions. Definitely not 10x10 mm ones. So how is it even useful for us?
Moreover, how are those beautiful build pictures possible on baseplates (many found on this forum for example), if they are not PCBs with 10x10 mm holes?
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The diyaudiostore has developed it’s own standard for mounting holes. The chassis purchased in the store are designed to fit all of the pcb’s that can be purchased there. You can purchase directly from modushop.biz (the OEM for the chassis) and customize your order through them. You will likely need some kind of drawing that shows them what you are looking for. If you don’t want to go through all that trouble you could fabricate your own adapter brackets.
I'm from Europe so the Modushop is a straightforward choice for me. Currently I'd like to put 2 x Modulus 86 module + a Connex SMPS300RE in a Mini Dissipante case. I'd also like to make it possible to upgrade the modules later on, etc. for this I thought about ordering the base plate.
So on the Modulus kit, the holes are 2.325 inch = 59.055 mm on one side and 3.15 inch = 80.01 mm on another side. The SMPS300R (and I guess the RE version as well) has it at 92 mm.
So for my use case, should I forget about the baseplate?
So on the Modulus kit, the holes are 2.325 inch = 59.055 mm on one side and 3.15 inch = 80.01 mm on another side. The SMPS300R (and I guess the RE version as well) has it at 92 mm.
So for my use case, should I forget about the baseplate?
OK, I think I'll forget the 10x10 baseplate and go with direct case holes.
I know the following is a very basic question, but how do you reliably mount a PCB to a solid aluminium chassis? I've checked one of your (6L6) guides and saw that you have some brass spacers, but how do they work? You just push them into the hole and they work by being tight? Or you somehow make a screw thread directly into the case bottom?
I know the following is a very basic question, but how do you reliably mount a PCB to a solid aluminium chassis? I've checked one of your (6L6) guides and saw that you have some brass spacers, but how do they work? You just push them into the hole and they work by being tight? Or you somehow make a screw thread directly into the case bottom?
Often the spacer has internal threads at both ends, which accept a screw either upward from under
the bottom of the chassis, or downward through the top of the pcb. Use steel or aluminum spacers,
and screws made of matching material.
Certain special spacers can be force-fit into a precision blind hole (not all the way through the panel),
but this requires special tooling.
Spacers, Standoffs: Keystone Electronics
the bottom of the chassis, or downward through the top of the pcb. Use steel or aluminum spacers,
and screws made of matching material.
Certain special spacers can be force-fit into a precision blind hole (not all the way through the panel),
but this requires special tooling.
Spacers, Standoffs: Keystone Electronics
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Is it possible to order top and bottom Mini Dissipante covers individually? They are not shown in the accessories section. I am building mono blocks in a somewhat unconventional size, so I am building it using some parts from the store and scrap wood I have lying around the shop to put the enclosures together.
Of course it is possible
Send me an email at info@modushop.biz and let me know the exact model you need so I can prepare a quotation.Gianluca
Hello Mark,
Thank you for your concern.
Luckily, transports have not been affected by the lockdown so shipments of chassis will continue without interruptions in the next days.
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remote mount PSU in lower case... matching pair?
I may have missed this option being discussed but its a huge thread
is there an option to buy two Mini Dissipante cases and have one of them fitted with blank sides and no heatsinks?
The reasoning is that if you want to have one with just a power supply inside, it would be nice to have two matching face plates. Also, if the lower one was used for power supply (no heatsinks), then the case itself would be narrower than the one with heatsinks above it and this will assist in providing air flow through the fins.
I realize you have a ton of different options and managing additional parts is a pain, but I mention it as it only requires two side plates.
Good health!
I may have missed this option being discussed but its a huge thread
is there an option to buy two Mini Dissipante cases and have one of them fitted with blank sides and no heatsinks?
The reasoning is that if you want to have one with just a power supply inside, it would be nice to have two matching face plates. Also, if the lower one was used for power supply (no heatsinks), then the case itself would be narrower than the one with heatsinks above it and this will assist in providing air flow through the fins.
I realize you have a ton of different options and managing additional parts is a pain, but I mention it as it only requires two side plates.
Good health!
choose-your-own-adventure® style chassis
It would be awesome if users could select a front panel with two knob cutouts on the front and an IEC on the rear, etc, but the logistics of stocking options is complicated enough to make me nervous for you. As an intermediate, could the diyAudio Store share CAD files from finished projects or for a small number of options?
For example, the B1 Korg chassis is [almost] perfect for many headphone amp or preamp options.... except I want the same cutouts on a 2U chassis without the silkscreen.
Maybe I'm lazy, but I tried FreeCAD and learning CAD is not happening this quarantine. Maybe there's a better (free, MacOS) program.
But maybe I'm protective of collective time: I want something clearly and cleanly done in the B1 Korg chassis (the 32mm hole cut 8mm into the front, with a smaller hole all the way through for the shaft). Designing it again seems inefficient, and I'd probably end up with the hole on the wrong side. If you made the B1 Korg chassis CAD files available, I could at least take a crack at transposing them onto the Galaxy 2U front.
There is the CAD design service option, but before going that route (pun intended), I'm guessing this is a common bottleneck.
It would be awesome if users could select a front panel with two knob cutouts on the front and an IEC on the rear, etc, but the logistics of stocking options is complicated enough to make me nervous for you. As an intermediate, could the diyAudio Store share CAD files from finished projects or for a small number of options?
For example, the B1 Korg chassis is [almost] perfect for many headphone amp or preamp options.... except I want the same cutouts on a 2U chassis without the silkscreen.
Maybe I'm lazy, but I tried FreeCAD and learning CAD is not happening this quarantine. Maybe there's a better (free, MacOS) program.
But maybe I'm protective of collective time: I want something clearly and cleanly done in the B1 Korg chassis (the 32mm hole cut 8mm into the front, with a smaller hole all the way through for the shaft). Designing it again seems inefficient, and I'd probably end up with the hole on the wrong side. If you made the B1 Korg chassis CAD files available, I could at least take a crack at transposing them onto the Galaxy 2U front.
There is the CAD design service option, but before going that route (pun intended), I'm guessing this is a common bottleneck.