How do you "patch" the lack of woodworking skills.
I'm asking cause looks like I'm going to get in to it.
And I suk at wood working completely so... Damage control measures must be set before starting to butch wood.
Hi, I'm using the blade that came with it and have been ripping a lot, tens of plywood sheets and other stuff during maybe 4 years, including full home renovation with plywood ceiling and lot's of plywood everywhere 😉 The cuts come pristine still, without any maintenance to the blade. It's small tooth blade and suits speaker building well. In general, I'm always amazed how useful the tool is. Instead of swearing with bad cuts and glue job this is completely opposite experience it's well worth the expense.
Do you have the model that makita list for it?
That will be on my top list for blades.
Somebody that have been cutting wood for 4 years with it and loved it , mean that the blade must be good 😁
That will be on my top list for blades.
Somebody that have been cutting wood for 4 years with it and loved it , mean that the blade must be good 😁
The machine is another place so can't check it at this moment, but I think the machine is SP6000J and product page lists the blade to be Makita B-09298 48T
Gotta remind even though I have used it a lot, a lot lot, it's not in daily use so professionals might have other opinions about the blade. No tear / clean cuts is likely also due to blade height adjustment.
Gotta remind even though I have used it a lot, a lot lot, it's not in daily use so professionals might have other opinions about the blade. No tear / clean cuts is likely also due to blade height adjustment.
Seems to have matching number and description on product page so very likely that's the one my saw has as well.
Is there any second hand makitas like yours , or I better wait till black Friday or some holiday
Right now is 519 Usd
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...arbide-Blade-and-Hard-Case-SP6000J1/204338179
I found this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RF7NYDL/
Right now is 519 Usd
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...arbide-Blade-and-Hard-Case-SP6000J1/204338179
I found this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RF7NYDL/
Yeah the price seems steep at first. I think it was about 500€ also four years ago so the price seems right, it's not doubled as many other products have. Make sure to get proper tracks for it, not sure if the alternatives work, perhaps they do. Mine came with two ~55" tracks as mark100 mentioned, and two clamps. Ordered mine from UK when they were still in EU as it was perhaps 100€ than at locals. Perhaps you can find some second hand, not sure who would sell theirs though 😀 Have fun!🙂
edit. I bought this from here, price is still about the same if I remember it right.
https://www.axminstertools.com/eu/m...onnector-ax656310?glCountry=FI&glCurrency=EUR
edit. I bought this from here, price is still about the same if I remember it right.
https://www.axminstertools.com/eu/m...onnector-ax656310?glCountry=FI&glCurrency=EUR
Really looking forward to seeing how your project shakes out. I think both 40Hz & density make a ton of sense for PA. Also saw Ricci had good things to show about PRs.
Depends on the size of the issue, place, finish, use case. If it is development box not to be used later, then acrylic caulk in tube/pistol fed it is. If the box is a production piece, then there is some kind of wood gypsum/putty that can be finished easily. But also lot of glue in the hole first, and some help on the inside too. Either glue with sawdust or small piece of wood, those rectangular sticks that are sold for small woodworking/models. About 6x6mm or so, lining the inner corners.
What we mean there is that the usual Helmholtz maths falls apart if you try to use a chamber of 28L and a 1000cm^2 port. PRs should still tune it wherever I want it, though.
FWIW, the 28L (internal, accounting for driver etc displacement) cabinet has been built. The last round of glue is drying tonight, and I should be able to make some noise tomorrow.
Referring to the Dayton PR datasheet: https://www.daytonaudio.com/images/resources/295-502--rss315-pr-specification-sheet.pdf
It looks like I have a range of tuning frequencies available: with no additional weights, the cabinet will be tuned just over 50Hz. With all six of the supplied weights, the extra 450g gets me to around 33Hz.
If I do push for LF extension, the main driver's Xmax becomes the limiting factor. Peak voltage input has to be kept below 80Vrms to stay within Xmax, but it'll still put out a little over 115dB@33Hz.
Chris
I recommend you to test the 50Hz setup just for reference. While tuning lower than that is fair, you'll most likely find out that last 4-5Hz down to 40 is not all that worth it. At least that are my notes from 30-46l 40-60Hz experience with 12TBX100.
All my models are net internal volumes.
28L + a 1Kcm2 port is not 28L net.
If you wanna go out like that, then use my Vtc & Ltc, S1-S3, and L12 + L23 total volumes as the initial enclosure volume and then add S3-S4 + L34 as the port volume to my TL's.
BP1,
Perhaps my previous explanation wasn't clear. Here's another attempt:
- The cabinet, as built, will be 28L net, once the driver and PRs are installed.
- The 28L + 1000cm^2 port cabinet doesn't actually exist. I wanted to check Art's maths about
I was unable to verify this, because the port required would have a ~1000cm^2 area, and be very long. With the port being very much larger than the chamber, the assumptions made in the Helmholtz equation don't hold any more. As a result, it wasn't possible to verify or contradict Art's statement directly.
Next, I wanted to figure out the range of possible tuning frequencies using my cabinet fitted with the 2x Dayton PRs:
115dB@33Hz is an option that I have, simply by putting the supplied 450g of weights on each PR. The added weights tune the PRs to 33Hz, without having to change the cabinet volume.
Similarly, if I don't add any weights, the tuning frequency would be 52Hz, and the cabinet would manage around 125dB over a narrow bandwidth.
For PA use, I like my subs to hit 40Hz with authority, so I'll probably tune my cabinet there. Crashpc's experience suggests I might be happier with a higher tuning frequency and more output, but that's something I'll test for myself.
I hope that clears things up. I'm going to go and install parts in this cabinet.
Chris
I've attached the impedance plots from the testing so far.
I couldn't find a way to remove all six disks from the PRs - the last one remained stuck on each, so that put a limit on how high I could go with the tuning. I suspect the cabinet is actually slightly-larger than calculated as well, since the fully-loaded PRs got the tuning down to 29Hz.
Finally, I ended up with 2x disks per PR (including the ones which couldn't easily be removed) for a ~39Hz tuning frequency.
Next up, I'll connect to an amplifier and take some close-up frequency response curves. The weather isn't great here at the moment, so outdoor testing will have to wait.
Chris
I couldn't find a way to remove all six disks from the PRs - the last one remained stuck on each, so that put a limit on how high I could go with the tuning. I suspect the cabinet is actually slightly-larger than calculated as well, since the fully-loaded PRs got the tuning down to 29Hz.
Finally, I ended up with 2x disks per PR (including the ones which couldn't easily be removed) for a ~39Hz tuning frequency.
Next up, I'll connect to an amplifier and take some close-up frequency response curves. The weather isn't great here at the moment, so outdoor testing will have to wait.
Chris
The weather was turned nice enough to drag everything out and take some measurements. I didn't spend long because I'm in a residential area. I can, however, offer the following notes:
Chris
- Reasonably smooth/flat into the hundreds-of-Hz range. Could probably meet a large-format compression driver if an extended-LF 2-way design was required.
- PR tuning seems to have come in on the low-side. Main driver shows a notch in output at 37Hz, and the PR's peak output matches that.
- There's a lot of output for the size. Didn't get to play for long, though.
- Response curve droops down towards 40Hz more than I'd like. Hornresp predicts 100Hz and 40Hz at approximately equal levels, while the Edge (baffle step calculator) predicts an additional 1dB difference. In reality, there's around 7dB difference. NB - need to play around with tuning to make sure the PR tuning is back at 40Hz.
- A T602 will just about drive this cabinet to make nasty noises, but only if you're delivering full-power swept sine tones. Worth implementing the excursion limiter to save the PRs from the worst-case. Real music should be more forgiving, in which case the excursion limiter might not activate.
- There's a little bit of compression at the PR tuning frequency and the driver's maximum excursion area, when going from 92Vrms to 101Vrms.
- Playing a 10Hz tone at 200w "True Power" (see the Powersoft white paper for more info) for around a minute resulted in no noticeable heat buildup - levels were the same before and after, and the PRs remained cold to the touch. Needs longer-term testing, though, as the 12RS1066 probably has enough thermal mass in the magnet to suck it up for a few minutes.
Chris
Chris,
What was the SPL at 40Hz at 101Vrms?
Did it look like the PRs were near 52mm (2inch) peak to peak?