Car Amplifier have power but no sound. Please help me

There are 4 output pins per each 14 pin op-amp. You need to post the pin number and the voltage.
In the Right one :
PINS Voltage
1. 0
2. 0
3. 0
4. +16
5. 0
6. 0
7. 0
8. -13.94
9. -3.40
10. 0
11. -15.75
12. 0
13. -3.37
14. -13.95

MIDDLE ONE:
Pins Voltage
1. -14
2. -6.80
3. -13.88
4. -13.88
5. -13.35
6. -10.94
7. -14
8. -13.32
9. -13.32
10. 0
11. -15.75
12. 0
13. -13.33
14. -13.32

LEFT SMALL ONE:
Pins Voltage
1. -13.12
2. -2.48
3. -11.84
4. -15.78
5. -13.88
6. -13.15
7. -11.95
8. 0
 
If you got that wrong, all the rest are unreliable. Place the black meter probe on one of the non-bridging speaker terminals and repost the voltages. Do it on the 14 pin op-amp on the right of the photo first. Copy and paste:


Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
 
the non-bridging speaker terminals
Please can you clarify what do you mean by non-bridging speaker terminals by using or marking in this photo.
 

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Hello Bro
I am Really Sorry for Leaving this thread in half.
Actually i sent this amp to local repairing shop but unfortunately they also can’t fix it.
Please help me

Problem : left side channel IC mosfet is overheating after just giving the power.

Reason : There is no earthing in the wires in my house, so when I was using my PC, the amplifier was connected through cable, and I was checking something in the amp, but then the upper plate of the amp touched the amp circuit and something got short circuited, and then this problem started. Before this it was not working without removing the 2 audio ICs, only the right side channels were working.But it all started from the bass on off button in bottom left corner, at that time i was not perfect in iron solidering but i tried to change the damaged button by myself but it results in damage the prints of that button area.