i meant the way the panels are dimensioned for cutting the wood purposes. i guess i could just cut a little bigger than i need on the questionable pieces then cut them down to size later on if needed.
I understand what you are saying about the dimensions not refering to the actual cut lengths of the timber.
I could probably get around to detailing this at the weekend, as long as you are happy with the mitres between the cut sheets as drawn.
Regards Martin
the 18nlw9000(c) is a better contender for a thSo in this article it states that an Eighteen Sound driver is used in the TH118...
Church Sound: Danley Introducing New TH-118 Tapped Horn Subwoofer At 2010 InfoComm - Pro Sound Web
Which one is he using? From the specs (power handling) i believe it is the 18nlw9600c woofer... the basket looks the same as well.
Anyone want to model the 18NLW9600c in this box? Thanks! (about $700 USD)
Or a cheaper alternative to the 9600c, the 18LW2400..... (about $320USD)
also x-max14mm, same pwr ratings.
actually the 9600c sims better in xco1 model.the 18nlw9000(c) is a better contender for a th
also x-max14mm, same pwr ratings.
the grey line is xco1 model
the black line is xco1 model with smaller s4 and s5(horn mouth)
If you go for 18Sound use18LW2400. It’s an improved 18LW1400 driver with lower pwr compression and better cooling capabilities. It sims exactly the same in Xoc1’s TH but I promise you it will sound better in LF. You should be able to find it for around $375 and a 4Ohm version is available.Yeah but the 9600c is 700usd. I would only be able to build a pair for now instead of the 4 cabinets I was planning
Also the B&C 18TBX100 sims very similar but suffers from a little more pwr compression compared to the 18Sound. Instead it is 50 box cheaper ($325)
But more importantly, what power amplifier are you going to use cause these drivers need at least 1500 watts to get them even near Xmax. In case you use a much less powerful amp I think your better of with a more economic driver.
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Plan & Cutlist
Hi
I managed to find a spare hour and produced this...
It has all the fundamental dimensions for the materials.
Once again I would stress that no compromises have been made to the cut lengths they are completely driven by the design.
Please note that no alowance has been made for rebating any of the panels.
Let me know if there are any errors in my typed partslist.
Djim what would you think would be the best way to brace this cabinet
Regards Martin
Hi
I managed to find a spare hour and produced this...
It has all the fundamental dimensions for the materials.
Once again I would stress that no compromises have been made to the cut lengths they are completely driven by the design.
Please note that no alowance has been made for rebating any of the panels.
Let me know if there are any errors in my typed partslist.
Djim what would you think would be the best way to brace this cabinet
Regards Martin
Attachments
Hi Martin,
The blue corner bracing can help with the first 180degree corner to optimise the pressure. More important, they will have a positive effect on the top panel to prevent panel-flex, so I would use them.
The 'hollow' part in the middle should have at least one bracing in the middle, preferable 2 positioned at 1/3 of the sidewalls (and of course fill those empty spaces up). The bracing in red can be bigger (if you cut out holes) but these are the places I would suggest as minimum.
The blue corner bracing can help with the first 180degree corner to optimise the pressure. More important, they will have a positive effect on the top panel to prevent panel-flex, so I would use them.
The 'hollow' part in the middle should have at least one bracing in the middle, preferable 2 positioned at 1/3 of the sidewalls (and of course fill those empty spaces up). The bracing in red can be bigger (if you cut out holes) but these are the places I would suggest as minimum.
Even 9mm (1/3 of an inch) would be thick enough for bracing. If you don't mind spending wood I suggest to use a little more wood like in the picture. That would make the cab very strong and almost impossible for the panels to resonate as a whole.Yes bracing with a subwooofer this powerful is a good idea. The bracing above looks good , same material thickness sound okay? Or would 1" ply with holes cut out be better?
Epa, it's one of the best price/performance drivers on the market today, I think. Not just the specs but the whole build and used materials breath quality. Btw, have you ever tried building such design? I'm afraid your plot would look like less promising in reality.excelent driver the 18 sound lw 2400 my latest flat to 33hz design. 537 ltrs
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