This is how Troels has solved the problem (setting the hypex flat (0) and using internal crossover) used to do it on my next4, works just fine.
How about a modern/vintage sort of stainless woven mesh ??
Black and chrome like all good gantsa cars 😀
Image stolen from here - https://www.angelacoustics.com.au/
Black and chrome like all good gantsa cars 😀
Image stolen from here - https://www.angelacoustics.com.au/
Living voice seems to nail it. Using some woven fabric. Folks from England just know how to build class
Long story short, I've sold the line Magnetic and got the soundmaster at crazy price. So bye bye push pull, hello SET! Here is the comparison.
Now that you have Hypex modules for bass, a measuring mic enables room correction.
I also downloaded the second song for comparison with my own speaker. This purely Hypex-driven system appears to be similarly airy, detailed and open when compared to the SET recording from your mobile. But then there is so much room in it that it’s just a guess.
Your tube amp seems to have been a good addition. Next, room correction 😉
I also downloaded the second song for comparison with my own speaker. This purely Hypex-driven system appears to be similarly airy, detailed and open when compared to the SET recording from your mobile. But then there is so much room in it that it’s just a guess.
Your tube amp seems to have been a good addition. Next, room correction 😉
Im really having trouble with the bass, the hypex is not quite preforming like the rest of the System. So, either I'll try what you suggested (thanks for the tip 😉 or another tip was to connect a second SET to those BMS... needs the same gain though. I am afraid that the Fa251 is just not powerfull enough and Troels crossed the BMS relatively high at 200hz, and that's male voice teritory... so I'll need quality as well... not cheap.
Yes, I understand, FA251 is only 125 Watts into 8 Ohm. FA501 is 270 Watts, and FA123 in BTL-mode is 250 Watts.
I am still surprised though: Had you not been powering the BMS with a smaller amp before? When I was powering a 12 Inch Faital 12PR320 with 75 Watts, I could not really hear a difference when compared to the 250 Watts in BTL-mode. Are you sure it is the (non-) available power that causes your perception of deficient bass? And what are you missing?
Hmmm. Yes I used to power the TL2 with the line Magnetic LM216A 38watt pc. When I introduced the hypex though (biamp) things started to go uphill, the line Magnetic felt free from the burden of the BMS driver. It was really a revelation since the sound stage and details were much much better. Then came the Mastersound SET amp and took everything to a whole new level... and it feels like the hypex is left behind. The bass in comparison is a bit sluggish and doesn't have the rich density of the lower bass and mids. 200hz is high so one can tell someone there is left behind (ehem)
What did helped though was to plug the bass reflex ports, the bas did become tighter, articulated, means that maybe I had some low notes creating havoc in my room. Any way maybe more grip is the answer 🤔
First, do measurements. A UMIK USB mic would be enough for finding out what happens in bass:
1) Sluggishness, might result from room modes. I only listen to a two-way speaker, and before room correction, the bass is overwhelming but muddens the lower mids and tonality. I currently have two PEQs with -10 db at 50, -6 db at 80 Hz to clear this up. Now, everything is very good, albeit that I think I buy a subwoofer sometime.
2) Density, there is a good chance that you have significant SBIR in the region between 100-300 Hz, from the looks of the setup under the roof. You could measure distances from center of the woofer up to the low ceiling, from baffle wall to front wall behind the speaker, and translate this into frequencies for a first check: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wavelength
You couldn’t solve this with higher wattage.
My current setup suffers from this too, there is a hole in the upper bass lower mids, and I am sneakily working on rearranging the living room to solve this issue .. 😉 It does not seem as if you could, but you would at least know if SBIR is the cause.
I found class AB to sound more integrated and warm, less differentiated than class D bass. Could be a factor. But you should first check if it might the room ...
1) Sluggishness, might result from room modes. I only listen to a two-way speaker, and before room correction, the bass is overwhelming but muddens the lower mids and tonality. I currently have two PEQs with -10 db at 50, -6 db at 80 Hz to clear this up. Now, everything is very good, albeit that I think I buy a subwoofer sometime.
2) Density, there is a good chance that you have significant SBIR in the region between 100-300 Hz, from the looks of the setup under the roof. You could measure distances from center of the woofer up to the low ceiling, from baffle wall to front wall behind the speaker, and translate this into frequencies for a first check: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wavelength
You couldn’t solve this with higher wattage.
My current setup suffers from this too, there is a hole in the upper bass lower mids, and I am sneakily working on rearranging the living room to solve this issue .. 😉 It does not seem as if you could, but you would at least know if SBIR is the cause.
I found class AB to sound more integrated and warm, less differentiated than class D bass. Could be a factor. But you should first check if it might the room ...
I thought also about sneaking a huge floating bass trap hanging from the ceiling. I would have already done it but sneaking this kind of thing under my wife nose will be impossible. I would try out the dsp room correction hypex can provide though I always more comfortable with playing with room acoustics.
I would have loved to try biamping the TL2 with two SET amps, but the price and probably the heat and for sure our electric bill will be ridiculous
I bought a circle jig to cut the holes in the face and the interior bracing of the speaker. When I measure from the pin to the edge of the router bit it looks like the smallest hole I can cut is 9 inches. I am in the US and did not have access to the jig that Troels put on his site. When I called rockler, the manufacture I purchased this jig from. They said that the smallest hole I could cut with a jig is 6 inches. They told me that it is impossible to cut a hole smaller than 6 inches with a router and a circle jig.
Does this sound correct to you? What is anyone doing to cut the smaller holes?
I thought that I could possibly get a plunge router base for my small router (see the picture) and then get a smaller jig.
Will you confirm that I would need a plunge router to cut the holes with a circle jig?
is there a different way to do it with the small router that I have?
Thank you
Will
While that jig you posted looks very nice they seem to lack imagination when they say that. You simply need a Jig where you can place that guiding thorn underneath the router base. Simple as that.
Regards
Charles
Yep , I agree with Charles
You can drill your own holes in your jig, modifying to your needs.
The smallest holes I'm getting with mine are about 3inches -Tweeter size... I advice you thought to make a test hole and then using it as a jig in itself, using "bundigfräse" (german) to transfer (copy) this hole on to your front panel. I hope it make sense.
Hole saws are another option.
When I built my router jig, I was able to get tighter holes because of how close to the bit I made the Trammell go. Most of the jigs have Trammells thapoint at the bit. Mine and the Router Buddy go past the bit.
When I built my router jig, I was able to get tighter holes because of how close to the bit I made the Trammell go. Most of the jigs have Trammells thapoint at the bit. Mine and the Router Buddy go past the bit.
Thank you for the response.
I looked up bundigfrase. What I saw is a flush cut router bit.
Are you saying, use the jig to cut the initial hole on a scrap piece of material and then use that test hole to cut the actual hole with the flush cut bit?
When you have a chance, will you show a picture of the thorn hole cut in the bottom of your jig?
I guess that you have to get it right the first time because you cannot make a micro adjustment if you are cutting a single hole.
Should I buy a smaller jig? Does this full-size jig get in the way or make it unwieldy to make small holes?
If I am using my imagination, it looks like I could make my own jig although I’ve never really made a jig before
I looked up bundigfrase. What I saw is a flush cut router bit.
Are you saying, use the jig to cut the initial hole on a scrap piece of material and then use that test hole to cut the actual hole with the flush cut bit?
When you have a chance, will you show a picture of the thorn hole cut in the bottom of your jig?
I guess that you have to get it right the first time because you cannot make a micro adjustment if you are cutting a single hole.
Should I buy a smaller jig? Does this full-size jig get in the way or make it unwieldy to make small holes?
If I am using my imagination, it looks like I could make my own jig although I’ve never really made a jig before
Yes, excactly. Make a perfect hole on a board and when you're satisfied with it just use it and the flush cut router bit.
I find this methode to be safer.
The inner hole does not need to be so precise, then you can work with your jig directly... for the outer hole, try to use the flush cut router methode.