BOM V4.3 (minor changes) :
1° - 4700uF caps rated to 35V : safer + extended lifetime.
2° - Led : both refs for Farnell/Mouser are pointing devices that shows typical Vf : 1.8v at 20mA.
Reports are welcome for update 😎
1° - 4700uF caps rated to 35V : safer + extended lifetime.
2° - Led : both refs for Farnell/Mouser are pointing devices that shows typical Vf : 1.8v at 20mA.
Reports are welcome for update 😎
A few questions about the b1:
-is it correct to say that the Salas B1 buffer, is the normal buffer but with shunt regulated power supply?
-Is there still any way of obtaining the pcb that salas designed from someone? Or perhaps does anyone have a good manufacturer for sending the pcb design?
-There are two types (mes and hyp) whats the difference?
Sorry to barge in like this in the tread, but I didnt exactly find my anwsers yet.
Rikkert
-is it correct to say that the Salas B1 buffer, is the normal buffer but with shunt regulated power supply?
-Is there still any way of obtaining the pcb that salas designed from someone? Or perhaps does anyone have a good manufacturer for sending the pcb design?
-There are two types (mes and hyp) whats the difference?
Sorry to barge in like this in the tread, but I didnt exactly find my anwsers yet.
Rikkert
It is a Nelson Pass B-1 buffer, direct coupled (no caps) with a purpose designed shunted regulator power supply. Designed by member Salas.
Tea Bag can answer to available PCBs
Hypnotize and Mezmerize differ in that the Mezmerize has 6 input switching relays.
Tea Bag can answer to available PCBs
Hypnotize and Mezmerize differ in that the Mezmerize has 6 input switching relays.
1. No, same topology, but Salas made a no coupling caps version (DC) with +/-10 V in lieu of +18 V.
2. For all other questions pls refer to the DCB1 pcb group buy
2. For all other questions pls refer to the DCB1 pcb group buy
naah .... they both kwayzee ....... in fact - all 3 of ya ......
Greek , Turk and Serb .......
You did not tell me yet. When is your slava? So I can pay you a looong visit😀
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Salas, I just looked at the DCB1S prototype build pictures that people have posted and it seems that most builders used caps larger than 100uF/25V in the regulator section. 100uF/25V caps are tiny and most proto builders' caps look physically much larger.
What is the effect of using let's say 470uF instead of 100uF in the shunt regulator, if there is an effect at all that you are aware of?
What is the effect of using let's say 470uF instead of 100uF in the shunt regulator, if there is an effect at all that you are aware of?
Thanks for the reply all.
I have read somewhere that the original b1 uses a coupling capacitor and that the Salas version doesn`t. I guess its best to stick to the original one then, as I will be using it with a firstwatt F5, which is DC coupled.
Perhaps I can just build the normal one, and add the shunt supply to it. Or build salas`with a coupling capacitor. I need to dig a bit deeper in all the treads to find out what would be the best for me.
I have read somewhere that the original b1 uses a coupling capacitor and that the Salas version doesn`t. I guess its best to stick to the original one then, as I will be using it with a firstwatt F5, which is DC coupled.
Perhaps I can just build the normal one, and add the shunt supply to it. Or build salas`with a coupling capacitor. I need to dig a bit deeper in all the treads to find out what would be the best for me.
100uF is best if you want to follow my tuning. It can work with bigger. No technical problem for 99% of capacitor makes. I understand that some people maybe have good quality ones in different values that they will want to listen to for subjective effects. But I recommend they use 100uF first to know the original tuning. Use your best quality for the one across the 5 leds. The effect is they imprint some signature, especially the latter one. I prefer 100uF in this one as a subjective whole, and I have some simulation indications about the charging shape of the shunt Mosfet's gate Idrive that may exist and correlate in practice or not. Because I had been investigating that back when I did it. Its a ''tuned'' device at least for one person's views and ears. But its elastic. Can play.
Regards.
P.S. If someone uses a very low ESR bigger cap and hears any whistling noise from tweeters, soft or louder, don't worry much, you got it oscillating.😀 Back to 100uF Pana FC, if your oscillation wasn't that bad. Else paypal for some new tweeters.
Can't give you any warranties that your build ain't going to collapse at a point and drive DC to a de facto direct coupled and not output protected amp like the F5. Or that you will not never ever have a faulty source connected. On the other hand nobody says that the amp will never fail itself for instance. If you use just one capacitor in the chain, and that will be between buffer and F5, you will be safeguarded though. Using a shunt over a normal B1, I don't know if it matches this one, never tried. Uses 2 caps BTW.
Cheers.
i also have f5 and i have to use a buffer before the amp..i should put capacitor to the output of both symmetrical and normal B1.so it doesnt change anything for sound quality? 😕
I used the same value 100uF but upped the voltage to 50v that's why the looked bigger in my build. They are Silmic II and are what I had at the time.