Hello members,
I use exactly the same bridge-rectifier together with a CL-60 thermistor for
building my ground-loop-breakers.
I use them in all of my DIY- Pass-poweramps.
Sometimes I did it with 2 single Diodes (direction against each other - paralleled together with a paralleled resistor around 10 Ohms) in my preamps, active crossovers,... with lower power consumption.
Works beautiful. Also in Germany with 230V/50Hz.
But hum or hiss can also have other reasons!
But often there are groundloops. My experience.
Greets
Dirk
I'm buying a vunch of these rectifiers for my DIY projects. I was wondering if you I should add some of those capacitiors. what are their specifications?
to Dadbeh
check post #1685 - link to Elliot Sound products:
'Earthing your HiFi - Tips, Tricks and Techniques' under point 9 (figure 5).
Rod Elliots website (Elliott Sound Products - The Audio Pages (Main Index)) is excellent!
Greets
Dirk
p.s.: the round , black part is a thermistor/NTC (Amphenol CL60 = inrush current limiter)
Greets
Dirk
check post #1685 - link to Elliot Sound products:
'Earthing your HiFi - Tips, Tricks and Techniques' under point 9 (figure 5).
Rod Elliots website (Elliott Sound Products - The Audio Pages (Main Index)) is excellent!
Greets
Dirk
p.s.: the round , black part is a thermistor/NTC (Amphenol CL60 = inrush current limiter)
Greets
Dirk
the elliot sound products page never mrntions a thermistor.
your pictures dorsnt have the 10 ogm resistor and the 100 nano farad capacitor. so basically other than the diode bridge the link and the picture agree on exactly nothing.
Firstly as per Rod's description the chassis must be connected to the safety earth ie mains cable.
The earth lift circuit shown in the link uses a 35 Amp or 25 Amp diode bridge, 10 ohm 5 watt resistor and 0.1uF 250V cap.
Use one per channel.
There are other solitions that use a thermistor etc etc.
The earth lift circuit shown in the link uses a 35 Amp or 25 Amp diode bridge, 10 ohm 5 watt resistor and 0.1uF 250V cap.
Use one per channel.
There are other solitions that use a thermistor etc etc.
to Dadbeh
Hello Dadbeh,
I am sorry if you are angered? But there are different ways to build a
groundloop-breaker.
The Elliot - Sound - Products webpage shows one possibilty. And it is well proven.
This pic shows a possibilty:
I will look for others. But if you search here in the forum you can find many
solutions.
Greets
Dirk
Hello Dadbeh,
I am sorry if you are angered? But there are different ways to build a
groundloop-breaker.
The Elliot - Sound - Products webpage shows one possibilty. And it is well proven.
This pic shows a possibilty:
I will look for others. But if you search here in the forum you can find many
solutions.
Greets
Dirk
Hi, I have just got hold of an Accuphase AC2 MC cart which has a new cantilever & stylus by Sound Smith. It is truly a great cart with fantastic sound stage. However is't output is low, very low & I have to push my V/C around way to much for a decent sound level.
So is there anyway easy way to increase the gain on the Pearl 2
Cheers
I know the Pearl 2 you have has adjustable gain with the max setting at 300 ohms on R14. So if this isn't enough you may need to get a step-up.
While searching for a way to lower my Pearl's gain I noticed these messed up jpegs. Does Photobucket simply delete photos after a certain amount of time?
It's probably good to remind people to upload their photos to the diyaudio site instead so they're there for future builders of popular designs.
It's probably good to remind people to upload their photos to the diyaudio site instead so they're there for future builders of popular designs.
Photobucket broke the internet a few years ago. Horrible company. How Photobucket Broke The Internet (And Why You Should Care)
I'm also wondering if anyone here employed Jackinnj's recommendations to flatten out the RIAA curve. While I have the hood up I might try that as well to get rid of the low end hump. If I can figure out exactly what to do that is.
Well, I did!
It's a "nit" -- Wayne's original might sound more pleasing.
Most important about RIAA comp is matching channel to channel. If they are matched you get used to the subtle bumps in the response curve.
Thanks jackinnj for your response! If the change would be minimal, I won't risk messing it up by trying to make it "perfect." It sounds better than any phono pre I've ever had.
However, I still want to lower the gain. If "decreasing R14 from 1K to 300 Ohms gives 10 dB more gain when desired for lower output cartridges," I figure I can lower gain by simply increasing R14 to something like 1.5K. I'm just wondering if it's as simple as that.
However, I still want to lower the gain. If "decreasing R14 from 1K to 300 Ohms gives 10 dB more gain when desired for lower output cartridges," I figure I can lower gain by simply increasing R14 to something like 1.5K. I'm just wondering if it's as simple as that.
So why change anything? You don't need more gain if all they way up is too loud.
Remember that essentially all volume controls "throw away" the input signal before putting it through it's gain stage. (The Volume control is nothing more than a voltage divider.) So the closer your volume us up to max, the less you are throwing away...
I put in sockets for R15 and C15 for making gain adjustments, and I left R14 at 1K and R16 at 100K. With R15 shorted and a 46.4K resistor inserted at C15 the gain is down by 10dB to 45dB at 1kHz. You could get the same effect by leaving everything else unchanged and increasing R14 to 3.2K.
Cheers,
Terry
Cheers,
Terry
Thanks for the response Gigigirl! Today I swapped out R14 raising it from 1K to 3.2K as metalman suggested. I matched them for to insure good balance between channels.
Metalman, I appreciate your recommending which value to use. What previously was 6:30 to 7 o'clock on my volume pots is now around 9 o'clock. High volume is now 12 to 2 o'clock. It sounds noticeably better to me.
It was more difficult than I imagined it would be. But thankfully I didn't ruin the pcb!
Metalman, I appreciate your recommending which value to use. What previously was 6:30 to 7 o'clock on my volume pots is now around 9 o'clock. High volume is now 12 to 2 o'clock. It sounds noticeably better to me.
It was more difficult than I imagined it would be. But thankfully I didn't ruin the pcb!