AVR300: Let us know how it goes for you.
I will have to pull out my boards to have a look at exactly where you mean to cut the trace and wire in the circuit. AVR300's pic with the wire added in after C6 is a great help! Would it be better to use a pot for R3 (esp as my VA is a little higher than the 6.5V)?
AVR300: Could you take a quick pic of the underside of the board where you cut the trace?
A little etched board would work lovely here I think!
Fran
I will have to pull out my boards to have a look at exactly where you mean to cut the trace and wire in the circuit. AVR300's pic with the wire added in after C6 is a great help! Would it be better to use a pot for R3 (esp as my VA is a little higher than the 6.5V)?
AVR300: Could you take a quick pic of the underside of the board where you cut the trace?
A little etched board would work lovely here I think!
Fran
My first choice of CCS would probably not be a JFET, but it should work fine. I would probably do a bipolar type CCS. But it does take more components. Honestly just the resistor will yield excellent results as long as VA is well regulated, which it will be if you are using LCDPS.
Cheers!
Russ
Cheers!
Russ
Hello
I have just finished the mod at 5.30 in the morning, it works!
I made up a CCS from a npn and a green LED. Because I did not want an additional board, I have soldered the CCS on the empty side. I cut the trace and soldered the CCS output to it. On the upper side I soldered the 2 green LEDs around C13, R4 remains, and finally I soldered an Oscon on both sides of C6 with a 10k between its legs. 10k give me just 3.4V.
I have just finished the mod at 5.30 in the morning, it works!
I made up a CCS from a npn and a green LED. Because I did not want an additional board, I have soldered the CCS on the empty side. I cut the trace and soldered the CCS output to it. On the upper side I soldered the 2 green LEDs around C13, R4 remains, and finally I soldered an Oscon on both sides of C6 with a 10k between its legs. 10k give me just 3.4V.
Attachments
Russ White said:
Of course you are right, just my writing is wrong.
By the way, I have got the MUX this morning, but first I want to listen to this mod, because you mentioned that the MUX in front of the buffalo could be an improvement as well. For this mod I had to remove and unsolder the board and it has always been my experience that the new joints need time to run in.
Andre
Yeah, that would be great.
Russ/Brian would you be up for it? Or if not, would yourselves or someone else here with say, eagle skills, do a very simple layout single sided so that we could home etch a board?
I was going to do this, but just with a marker. An nice layout would be so much neater......
Rolls: Could you email me a higher resolution picture of the trace you cut underneath the board?
JoshauG: The vref is the feed to the opamp, you connect it to one side of C6 which then leads to the opamp. See AVR300s first pic on the last page.
Fran
Russ/Brian would you be up for it? Or if not, would yourselves or someone else here with say, eagle skills, do a very simple layout single sided so that we could home etch a board?
I was going to do this, but just with a marker. An nice layout would be so much neater......
Rolls: Could you email me a higher resolution picture of the trace you cut underneath the board?
JoshauG: The vref is the feed to the opamp, you connect it to one side of C6 which then leads to the opamp. See AVR300s first pic on the last page.
Fran
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.