Budget Classic 3-way Discussion Thread

How low budget is "low budget"? I've noticed, in this game we play here, it can vary from aliexpress $5 drivers all the way to using only $500+ drivers.
From what I've seen I think my TV 3 ways are pretty low budget. You've seen this build and you helped me with it. It has FAR exceeded my expectations.

Hivi RT1.3WE Iso Tweeter $34
Zaph Audio ZA14W08 Mid $55

Then I used a 10" Peerless 860668 Woofer $60
Would I do it again I would use the 12" version of that driver


The cheapest thing I ever made was for the lake house. Not so simple series 2 way, second order XO. Silver Flute 6.5 and Peerless Tweeter DX20BF00-04
The entire thing cost me about $150. 90 DB sensitivity. Not a single resistor in the XO. I feel like you could make another version of this for very little extra if you used the silver flute 5.5 and some kind of GRS large diameter woofer.

I believe this answers your last question (I know it was a joke) of whether or not you can have a cheap 2 way cover the entire spectrum and play loud. And play off axis with very little drop off. Blue line there is 90 degree of axis.
Measurements:
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Over the years, I've bought a lot of $40 drivers. Some of those drivers, or something similar would run about $50 or more each now. I have bought a few $12 drivers, but most of them were later sold. I still have a discontinued 10" Peerless that is similar to current offerings I think it's number model number is 850146. I assume the current ones are comparable. I like it.
 
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X-over cost estimate. (Just a Ballpark ) $100 per speaker. Parts Express as a supplier.

My estimate would be for the following parts.

woofer..... 2 coils, 1 cap
mid....4 caps, 3 coils, 3 resistors
tweeter. 2 caps, 1 coil, 2 resistors

Every design will need different things. This estimate is mostly for those who have not made 3-ways, and priced the parts.

What would this cost outside of the USA?
 
The size, response and so should be more or less the same as the original monkey coffin tread, but cheaper and easier to build (and maybe less monitor precise as compromise). So a 70 to 100L boxy cabinet, a 12" or 10" woofer with an FS of 40Hz, and acompanging cone mid and dome tweeter with a simple passive crossover network. That was the goal i thought. I would set the max budget at 300€ per side for drivers, cheaper can be good (if the quality is there).

But those who build it should set the real wanted specs. I may build one in the far future, but i don't have time and space in the near future to really build one. But I like to help with the box and crossover.

On measurment mics, a dayton UMIK-1 is cheap and good enough for this kind of build. You just need to use it right (not so difficult)
 
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X-over cost estimate. (Just a Ballpark ) $100 per speaker. Parts Express as a supplier.

My estimate would be for the following parts.

woofer..... 2 coils, 1 cap
mid....4 caps, 3 coils, 3 resistors
tweeter. 2 caps, 1 coil, 2 resistors

Every design will need different things. This estimate is mostly for those who have not made 3-ways, and priced the parts.

What would this cost outside of the USA?
On crossover you need to see what is needed, not a mandatory layout. It may be that you need way less parts, or other configurations of parts. It all depends on what drivers in what box give what measurements. But a target maximum cost of 100€ can work, it may be that we are slightly over it and that should not be an issue (if it's slightly). But cheaper could also. But use decent parts please, not the cheapest you can find.
 
That's a pretty big box! I like it. My sub is 100L. I'm looking at it now, and I can visualize it with a mid, and tweeter added. It's heavy though. I move it with a hand truck. I don't think I can carry it alone these days safely. I had pictured the same look, but half as deep, so that would be around 50L.
 
On crossover you need to see what is needed, not a mandatory layout. It may be that you need way less parts, or other configurations of parts. It all depends on what drivers in what box give what measurements. But a target maximum cost of 100€ can work, it may be that we are slightly over it and that should not be an issue (if it's slightly). But cheaper could also. But use decent parts please, not the cheapest you can find.
I was just showing what I sometimes end up with. Someone who buys in Europe, or Australia, might want to price some parts to estimate their cost. Driver selection makes a big difference. The cost to fix peaks, and dips in some drivers can add up. I like smooth drivers that are easy to blend.
 
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A classic monkey coffin is a big box, that is the definition of it, a big box with a big woofer on a wide baffle, a small mid and a dome tweeter. The classic monkey coffin, the JBL L100 is 39x37x64cm, that is about 71L netto with 18mm wood (the wood is thinner actually, so more volume) and 91.8L brutto. those are official specs.
 
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For me around 40Hz F3 is a reasonable goal, a good balance of sensitivity and bass extension. Size, I am open to options as long as it is smaller that the PAP open baffle I made some years ago (dual 15" woofers). That kinda dominated the room a bit.
As important as bass is, I would want a system with clean midrange output to near 3k without beaming. That and over 90dB sensitivity would narrow the field considerably for the midrange.
The tweeter, a lot of great options (SB ADC or CDC, SB 26TWGC or Morel CAT378 or the DQ25SC16 and so on).
I have a mic and recently loaded REW on a PC, time to learn some new skills. So, after my 2-Way Two ways project I am currently working on I hope to have the basics down on measurement and crossover design.
 
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what i would do probally (EU)

tweeter: SB SB26ADC (50.64€)
mid: Faital 6FE125 (44.46€)
woofer: Faital 10FE330 (106€)

That is if i counted right about 201.1€ per side for drivers. count 100€ average for the crosssover parts and you're about at 300€ minus the cabinet, cabling and binding posts. cabinet can be arround the size i said above. Drivers are high quality, but nothing esotheric or audiophile, just good drivers.
 
The Faital 10FE330 in a 55L cabinet sims like this.
1739546647111.png
So i guess (with chamber for mid and wood (18mm) and bracing and so) we end up with about 85L brutto cabinet, what could be arround 40x34x63cm (raw estimation). that is more or less the size of a classic monkey coffin speaker. You can cross it higher than this sim tells you in reality. I've heared this driver in a 2 way crossed at 1.3kHz also and it still worked well. Max volume is louder than you want in your house...
 

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Solen has a new kit called MURA 5B.

  • SB-Acoustics SB13PFCR25-8 -- 15 cm paper cone plastic frame woofer
  • SB19ST-C000-4 -- 3/4" fabric dome
  • 2-way 2nd order x FR not specified, maybe 3k

Pretty good documentation of plans, including good measurements, all crossover values, ~10 liter box details. FR looks good, as do drivers.

A pair with everything but the box for CA$199. Considering exchange rates, this is cheap.

I'm thinking about adding an SLS 10" at the bottom front of a sealed ~3' tower 12x10" or so, with the above components in a top compartment. Maybe aperiodic loading with back port in 6 liter section.

Close wall/floor woofer position for baffle step help & low freq extension & WAF & convenience.

Someone here could surely whip up low/high pass 300~400 Hz filters for this.

I got the SLS 10 woofers for ~ca$70 privately, so total cost of drivers + crossovers would not exceed ca$400 a pair.

I expect this would be amazing value for $.
 
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what i would do probally (EU)

tweeter: SB SB26ADC (50.64€)
mid: Faital 6FE125 (44.46€)
woofer: Faital 10FE330 (106€)

That is if i counted right about 201.1€ per side for drivers. count 100€ average for the crosssover parts and you're about at 300€ minus the cabinet, cabling and binding posts. cabinet can be arround the size i said above. Drivers are high quality, but nothing esotheric or audiophile, just good drivers.
Woofer, and tweeter look great. I assume the tweeter can cross at 2k, or lower. The mid has a little bump up high. I know that can be dealt with in the x-over, but something without that bump might be easier. Overall, I think a good start. How available are these drivers elsewhere?