Hey, great to hear moves fast seeing a active thread about BC type subs. Only ever actual prototype "clone" of the BC218 was somewhere on the Philippines without any info only a video haha.
But our plan was potentially to modify the bDEAP so double 12 inch with features of the BC215 mainly the possibility deploy the cabins by laying them on their side. Altho I am not yet fully sure regarding the efficiency because that is lower than the original deployment method I think. But 1 challange is that we use JBL HLA tops in our Soundsystem theirfor need some more additional depth because the bDEAP are rather shallow. So maybe after all a 15 type might not be bad.
But I like to work with double 12 inch because it's rather convinient to power because we use Crest CA and old pro series so exept if we find good prices on like 9001... Its maybe more convinient to just drive some more lower power hungry drivers and aim for sensitivity.
I might have access to original Bdeap from a friendly system so my idea was to see if we can messure the intenals and use that as a baseline for modifications.
But we also where generally intrested to maybe build something like you designed just for the fun of it but than maybe not split design but full double 18.
So maybe if you have to do another prototype round we could be intrested in building some and providing messurments....
Could you share this video please?
Regarding amp choice, in my opinion there are many better options today. We mostly use Powersoft plate amplifiers with DSP, which are mounted in custom 2U racks. My second choice would be chinese Class D amps (Sinbosen D2 4500/4200, Admark....) Not advertising them but we used them in past and we still use them today for our B rig and they work reliably. Output is very decent too. Another important thing to consider IMO is power draw and efficiency, at least in my country we often have this issues, Class D is a way to go in this case, runs relatively cool too. Some people might argue that older amps sound better, but IMO new Class D amps sound superb even when pushed hard and have more "controlled and tight" sound. Some might have different opinion tho.
I will try to find it again it was some rabbit hole I once ended up in was basically just a bunch of guys carrying 2 or 4 of them in DIY no internals or rly seeing what's up.
Regarding Class D amps. Its true there are good value Chinese Class D like the once you mentioned and more also already considered them because value wise they are quite good. Reliability always a bit depended on the batch also especially if you bring them into some harsh environments because they don't use the highest tolerance parts (which is totally fine) but you always should have 1 backup.
Regarding the powersoft plate amps in a 2U rack that's actually quite Intresting. You got some pictures maybe and what are those prices for them ?
But well we use the old crest because they are especially reliable and also great sounding amp. Class D is a upgrade for sure but if I buy those I think I prefee buying some up to date quality once and you don't got that many that have them without DSP (ofcause there is MC2...)
Full DSP amps is nice with Linea or armonia... So it's definitely on my radar but for that probably have to do once a big purchase and we don't got that budget atall atm sadly haha
Regarding Class D amps. Its true there are good value Chinese Class D like the once you mentioned and more also already considered them because value wise they are quite good. Reliability always a bit depended on the batch also especially if you bring them into some harsh environments because they don't use the highest tolerance parts (which is totally fine) but you always should have 1 backup.
Regarding the powersoft plate amps in a 2U rack that's actually quite Intresting. You got some pictures maybe and what are those prices for them ?
But well we use the old crest because they are especially reliable and also great sounding amp. Class D is a upgrade for sure but if I buy those I think I prefee buying some up to date quality once and you don't got that many that have them without DSP (ofcause there is MC2...)
Full DSP amps is nice with Linea or armonia... So it's definitely on my radar but for that probably have to do once a big purchase and we don't got that budget atall atm sadly haha
Sanway,CVR and Admark have good track record with all people who I have interacted with.
sinbosen had many issues with quality control , failed amps before 8 hour play time, dead on arrival units and not responsive warranty or service department.
That was discussed in the other famous audio forum, can't recall the name ....geez I'm getting older.
So I don't really recommend sinbosen but I don't know if they have fixed those issues now.
Personally I will avoid sinbosen and get Admark ,sanway or CVR.
Mentioned sinbosen since we have d2 4200 that we use regularly without any issues, powering 4ohm loads close to limits often.
We do not have any favourites and not trying to promote a company really.
I would go for good chinese clone still, way less weight and less space consumed is also important factor.
Here are some updates on build:
Still 3 more to go, hope to get them assembled this week
Nice that you did not get a sinbosen lemon, and do not get me wrong, I am just sharing what I have read or seen people use and had success and not failures regarding clone amps, not endorsing or promoting.
A couple of close people had bad sinbosen experience, and same people had zero issues with the other brands.
Cheers.
Looks very good when doing some minor cleaning of the edges and coating 😁
I am very curious of you manage to achive your simulations and get close to the originals performance wise.
Will you messure all 3 setup options ? So stacked ontop of each other, than the side "eye" arrangement and them just pointing downwards coupling with the floor?
And yea I am still open to Chinese clones might do it for the start when building subwoofers that are demanding wattage wise like these 18 inch but I honestly like also the sensitivity route using small drivers. I do projects usually with a big crew so we got luckly enogh hands if it would be just me alone I would tho 100% agree to skip the whole Class A/B/H... Maybe exept for HF section if you can't afford a nice HQ class D.
My friend always says "Having heavy things is stupid, But cops won't confiscate it atlest 😂🤣"
Looks very good ! Some small cosmetic work getting the rough edges nice and smooth and some paint will prob tie it togather nicely altho atm anyways does not matter I guess you will messure them first.
I am very curious of you manage to achive your simulations and get close to the originals performance wise.
Will you messure all 3 setup options ? So stacked ontop of each other, than the side "eye" arrangement and them just pointing downwards coupling with the floor?
And yea I am still open to Chinese clones might do it for the start when building subwoofers that are demanding wattage wise like these 18 inch but I honestly like also the sensitivity route using small drivers. I do projects usually with a big crew so we got luckly enogh hands if it would be just me alone I would tho 100% agree to skip the whole Class A/B/H... Maybe exept for HF section if you can't afford a nice HQ class D.
My friend always says "Having heavy things is stupid, But cops won't confiscate it atlest 😂🤣"
I take a lot of time after assembly to make boxes visually perfect. It is an important thing to me, testing will be done in all possible configurations when build is 100% finished, I do not want to rush things. Can't wait to turn them on 🙂
Boxes are relatively heavy but not unmanagable in my opinion, will weight them accurately as possible when completed. 3/4 assembeld, 1 more to go.
Handles are from ADAM HALL, ordered from thomann, very nice quality, and relatively cheap.
IMO it should be a well preforming horn sub, I doubt there are many things that could really be improved significantly.
Nice fast progress! You should probably put a messurments sensor in the rear chamber and maybe a contact thermostat on the driver if you have when testing just to monitor the temperature because it's a closed chamber design. Especially when measuring you wanna keep a simmilar temperature to compare It well maybe and also adjust possibly the RMS limiter.
Have you tried out in your simulations other drivers potentially? Or only for the pair you have yourself ?
I am curious how the difference will be sonicaly to the originals in the messurments because the slightly diffrent internal folding and horn opening the original expands the horn a bit later in the relation to the middle separation "wall".
Have you tried out in your simulations other drivers potentially? Or only for the pair you have yourself ?
I am curious how the difference will be sonicaly to the originals in the messurments because the slightly diffrent internal folding and horn opening the original expands the horn a bit later in the relation to the middle separation "wall".
I believe if you are attempting such build, considering lesser, worse preforming drivers might not be an good idea. 18SW115 are reasonably priced imo.
You can find hornresp inputs that should get you close tho 🙂
In my experience in short dest durations temperature sensors are useless. Large back chamber and good driver cooling should definitely help in long term. Curiuous how it will turn out
You can find hornresp inputs that should get you close tho 🙂
In my experience in short dest durations temperature sensors are useless. Large back chamber and good driver cooling should definitely help in long term. Curiuous how it will turn out
Oh yea for sure def you need good T/S parameters. Was just curious if there are some drivers that might be even better for the job. But regardless those 18SW115 ar quite good seeing your simulation no expert tho.
I definitely wanna get AKABAK a shot again to simulate maybe this time a subwoofer.
Last time I tried to get a good simulation of a strange multi entry horn I made in AKABAK but I could never fully figure out how to simulate the coupling.... So gave up 🤣😂 single or double driver subwoofer prob will def be easier haha
I definitely wanna get AKABAK a shot again to simulate maybe this time a subwoofer.
Last time I tried to get a good simulation of a strange multi entry horn I made in AKABAK but I could never fully figure out how to simulate the coupling.... So gave up 🤣😂 single or double driver subwoofer prob will def be easier haha
Cant think of another driver that is comparable other than 18 Sound 9601C. I have a pair of 18's that simulate well in this cab also. (Beyma 181000fe v2) But these drivers are no where in the same league as the BC. Will see what the future holds as I have had these sitting on a shelf for a little while. Wondering what I was going to build with them.
Great progress on your assembly so far.
Great progress on your assembly so far.
Such a cool build, can't wait to see the final product and how it performs.