Bora is a nice guy from Serbia - Yugoslávia

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#422
It's better to use 16A relay... Just worried for the relay of 10A ,not to stick contacts!

Now we have to solve the cross connection...

I apologize for the bad picture but I really did not have time to do better.

Pins 6,7,8,9 are free, they should not be linked because they have no purpose for such construction

jujqqc.jpg
 
#425
No, the LED goes exactly according to the scheme, the anode goes to +24 V and the cathode to pin 12, pin 11 not used.

Another thing, CT transformer goes to the ground by the power of the electrolyte and also minus the speakers and then the one common point GND

You do not have to use a transformer for AC voltage of 7V, using two resistors with existing tranformer 2 * 50V AC get 7V AC.
 
#426
Omni

Hi I just have redraw the interconnection diagram please just double check it.

I would like to ask one thing; In this configuration when I turn on the amp will both of the supplies will turn on silently?

should I use Two separate supplies for separate channels or one big supply for both the channels?

Currently I am using 40,000uf + 40,000uf capacitance bank for two separate channels is it fine?

Just advice me on that. I want my supplies to turn on silently.

Regards
 

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#429
viktor1986 said:
It's better to use 16A relay... Just worried for the relay of 10A ,not to stick contacts!
Click to expand...
changing from 10A rating to 16A rating may make little to no difference in the risk of contacts sticking/welding/arc not extinguishing.
The DC rating for breaking a continuous fault current is a very onerous specification.

You may, maybe should, take other steps to ensure the relay stands a real chance of breaking a DC fault current when you expect it to do so.

Opening the speaker feed AND shorting the fault current to ground improves the situation.
Fitting supply rails fuses that are close rated helps.
Fitting an input mute helps when it is the input signal that is generating the fault current.
Rail crowbars are another option to consider.
 
Last edited:
#436
Wasim said:
Hi Viktor1986,

I want to make an SMPS from 220VAC to +/- 70VDc. Could you please direct me to some thread where I could find information on that?

Regards
Click to expand...


I have not followed the themes related to smps, once I was heated for one project, it's K6 smps, but I gave up then although I have complete documentation. http://www.a-and-t-labs.com/K6_Sw_Amp/index.htm

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149702

I found this on Google, http://www.coldamp.com/opencms/opencms/coldamp/en/products/power_supplies/SPS80HV/index.html

http://84.255.231.51:81/index.php?page=hb_prot2
 
#437
viktor1986 said:
I have not followed the themes related to smps, once I was heated for one project, it's K6 smps, but I gave up then although I have complete documentation. http://www.a-and-t-labs.com/K6_Sw_Amp/index.htm

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149702

I found this on Google, http://www.coldamp.com/opencms/opencms/coldamp/en/products/power_supplies/SPS80HV/index.html

http://84.255.231.51:81/index.php?page=hb_prot2
Click to expand...


Hi Viktor,

My friend I have found this on Dr Bora's website. It looks very nice. I was only thinking about that how can I use it with 230VAC to +/- 70 VDC. because This SMPS is originally designed for car audio I mean from 12VDC to +/-70 VDC. What do you say about it?

http://bas.elitesecurity.org/mojiprojekti1.html

Regards
 
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