Boenicke W5 clone

RomanMarts

Member
2019-04-04 10:04 pm
pics

Hello! I made W5 clone for myself to listen at home more than one year ago. I compared the sound of mine and originals one. It's sounds the same.
3-way ported loudspeaker_8.jpg | 3-way ported
3-way ported loudspeaker_5.jpg | 3-way ported
good luck with your projects )
sorry, looks like photos can't be open with a previously provided link...
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Wow! They look really amazing. Really good job...
I'm reading the forums about this speakers up and down around the globe....
Now I'm close to finish my first prototype and would like to know if you could give me a hint with the Crossover Design and capacitors, resistors, etc. you used in your version? I found aa drawing of a Crossover and thinking to go for the following ones:

C1 Mundorf MCAP Evo Oil 1,0 uF
C2 Mundorf MCAP Evo Oil 10 uF
C3 Mundorf MCAP Aluminium 12 uF
R1 Mundorf MOX MP10 6,8 Ohm
R2 Mundorf MOX MP5 2,7 Ohm
L1 Mundorf L50 01,12 mh / 0,42 Ohm

Thanks for your answer and stay save. Merry Crhistmas
 
Hello Stramer,

Not sure if I can answer your question directly here...............
I basically use the crossover schematic shared by Etonis on post #6 of this thread. The components I use are

For the FE85's band pass:
Obbligato gold premium 10uF
Panasonic EZP-E 12uF
Mills MRA12 2.2ohm

For the tweeter high pass:
Obbligato gold premium 2.2uF
Mills MRA12 10ohm
Mundorf foil inductor 0.12uH

No crossover for the woofer...

Do note that I lack the technical training so I am not able to tell you what are the crossover frequencies.

I first tried listen to them without crossover and without the rear tweeter, the highs were just "incomplete". Then I install the tweeter with the high pass filter, but without band pass for the FE85, the highs were ok but somehow I just cannot listen to them for too long before getting a headache :-(
Finally I connect the band pass for FE85s and they sounded so much more pleasant to listen to.

Unfortunately I believe I have problems with my room acoustics, and that my refrigerator in my small little apartment is humming at around 65~80Hz, the low frequency somehow resonated too much and was rather unbearable. So I finally sealed the tunnel port and now they are lovely to listen to, the bass are very sufficient and full in my apartment and they are fast and punchy too.

Hope the above helps a little.

Have a safe Christmas.
 
Hello kptseng,

Thank you very much for your suggestions and reply.
To be honest I'm on the electrical engineering side and crossover stuff a pure rookie :) I guess if i cluster my knowledge with yours it will be good :)

From the beginning I liked the design of the W5 so much and it's the ideal speaker for my room conditions because I can't place huge Stands or loudspeakers in my living room. But as alway if you have more taste than money I have to go that way and hope to increase my knowledge level.

I found in a forum a kind of "reverse engineering" drawing of a crossover of an W5SE and so I took that one because it was the most complete one I could found. So I thought I will go for that one (see attached).

The Obligato gold premium 2.2 uF you mentioned is there also listed but I thought I could eventually stay with the one from Mundorf (same capacity) because the Obligato was a bit rare to find.

May I ask you if you could have a quick look on the drawing if this would be a good starting point? Maybe with that I could start and then see how they may sound on my streamer.

All the best for 2021
 

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Hi,

Your crossover is quite similar to the version Entonis presents on page 1 of this thread. However, there are two problems IMO:

  • Woofer and midrange are both wired in positive polarity. This leads to a broad dip in the frequency response around 700 Hz.
  • The RC branch in the midrange section results in a low impedance at high frequencies of less than 3 ohms.

Therefore I rather would favorite the version shown in portreathbeach's thread (Can someone explain the series notch filter please):

Boenicke W5 Crossover (portreathbeach).png

:2c:
 
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Hi Dissi,
Many thanks for your hints about the Crossover.
So I will adapt my components for the crossover Entonis presented and start with that.

Do you have any suggestions or recommendations about the manufacturers I should go for or can I stay with the Mundorf Equipment?

Have a good start in 2021

The originals do not only use Mundorf. The 10uF capacitor is from obliggato. Dont use Mundorf here, it sounds much sharper, not so smooth and nice in the upper regions. I like the Jantzen Alumen cap very much, also very smooth.
 
My 1st CNC Prototype

Hi all together,
first of all I hope you all started good into 2021.
I'm very thankfull for your suggestions and recomendations about the crossover design / circuit.

Please find attached some images of the 1st prototype I did with a friend of mine who has a CNC Machine. We did the 1st version out of 3 x 21 mm Multiplex (birch). My plan is to have the final version (if everything works fine with the crossover, etc.) made of solid wood like oak, ash or walnut.... lets see.

Can anyone tell me how thick the cover rings are for the bass speaker and the full range driver and what diameters you used? I know this is more of a visual thing but if so I would fit them as well. It should also look good in the living room later :)

All the best
 

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The originals do not only use Mundorf. The 10uF capacitor is from obliggato. Dont use Mundorf here, it sounds much sharper, not so smooth and nice in the upper regions. I like the Jantzen Alumen cap very much, also very smooth.

Thanks for your hint with the capacitor from Jansen.
I checked that one and found it a bit on the pricy side :)

The Jantzen Alumen Z-Cap 100 VDC 10 uF is around 75 Euro per piece
Is there any alternative from Jantzen which could be a good alternative?
 

advr

Member
2009-09-15 11:54 am
First time I see this topic and a good start for 2021!

Heart the original W5 several times and always impressed by the sound.

Didn't read the complete story yet but first impression is, if somebody could produce the body I am interested[emoji4]

What a craftsmanship!

Ad.
 
Thanks for your hint with the capacitor from Jansen.
I checked that one and found it a bit on the pricy side :)

The Jantzen Alumen Z-Cap 100 VDC 10 uF is around 75 Euro per piece
Is there any alternative from Jantzen which could be a good alternative?
how about the Superior-Z of Silver-Z?
10.0uF Superior Z-Cap | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers
10.0uF Silver Z-Cap | RumoH - Caps, Coils and Speakers

for reference this site is highly recommended:
Humble Homemade Hifi - Cap Test
 
Thanks for your hint with the capacitor from Jansen.
I checked that one and found it a bit on the pricy side :)

The Jantzen Alumen Z-Cap 100 VDC 10 uF is around 75 Euro per piece
Is there any alternative from Jantzen which could be a good alternative?
Hi! Use Cross cap or Standard Z-cap for mids and Superior Z for tweeters. Don't waste money now for Alumen, Duelund etc.
BlackDotAudio - głośniki i akcesoria do budowy kolumn
 
Hi! Use Cross cap or Standard Z-cap for mids and Superior Z for tweeters. Don't waste money now for Alumen, Duelund etc.
BlackDotAudio - głośniki i akcesoria do budowy kolumn

The FE85 gives you the higher frequencies in this setup, so you should go with a higher quality cap on the 10uF one. The tweeter is just a "filling" one on the back, no need to go crazy here.
The superior Z sound very nice and make the sound more "smooth" also, so yes they would be nice, but they are far away from the quality of the alumen.
Standard Z Cap on the 10uF place sounds very harsh and you should try another solution. As i said, the FE85 goes all way up into high range and is not the midrange only driver here. Give it a good quality cap, else you will make it too bright. The FE85s can get quite annoing if used with a low quality cap.
 
CNC File

Please find attached some images of the 1st prototype I did with a friend of mine who has a CNC Machine. We did the 1st version out of 3 x 21 mm Multiplex (birch). My plan is to have the final version (if everything works fine with the crossover, etc.) made of solid wood like oak, ash or walnut.... lets see.

All the best

Great job StramerDIY! I have the opportunity to get a CNC mill in our FabLab, but have no idea about Fusion360 or similar. Do you share the file you developed for the case by any chance?

Cheers