I think I would stick as close to the original as possible. Width of the port 80mm and height about 10mm. Length around 20-24cm, depending on which sources you follow.
Yes the port is long and there might be flow noise. But if it worked on the original, why would it be a problem? I can't fathom it from the simulation if the flow noise is too high or not. I think the original is tuned to something above 60hz.
Yes the port is long and there might be flow noise. But if it worked on the original, why would it be a problem? I can't fathom it from the simulation if the flow noise is too high or not. I think the original is tuned to something above 60hz.
Finally I finished my Version of the W5 in walnut…. It took me really a while until finished them and collecting all parts together (drivers, metal rings, crossover etc).
To me they look really amazing and I‘m happy with the sound.
Thanks also for the hints and answers I got here…
Attached some images of the final version.
Have a good start in 2023
To me they look really amazing and I‘m happy with the sound.
Thanks also for the hints and answers I got here…
Attached some images of the final version.
Have a good start in 2023
Attachments
Thanks for your compliments
The crossover scheme is the one I asked in one of my previous posts in this thread … just jump some pages back
Because of the huge effort and time I didn’t care to go for the cheapest components for the crossover / binding posts . Finally I took the Jantzen Aluminium Cap and some Mundorf capacitors and resistors…
Rings:
They are 2 mm thick
They were simple metal rings that I polished in a workshop with glass pearls. A friend of mine then did the painting with his airbrush gun..
Before painting I used some primer.
The ring of the bass driver sits very tight in the wood (no glue ore 3M tape necessary). The 4 screws are hidden behind the driver.
The front ring is the same 2mm thick and also hiding the screws behind. That’s why the front driver is a bid set back and not plan like the original. But I love the clean look
Back plate / binding poste plate:
3 mm thick stainless steel that I polished (no painting)
The crossover scheme is the one I asked in one of my previous posts in this thread … just jump some pages back
Because of the huge effort and time I didn’t care to go for the cheapest components for the crossover / binding posts . Finally I took the Jantzen Aluminium Cap and some Mundorf capacitors and resistors…
Rings:
They are 2 mm thick
They were simple metal rings that I polished in a workshop with glass pearls. A friend of mine then did the painting with his airbrush gun..
Before painting I used some primer.
The ring of the bass driver sits very tight in the wood (no glue ore 3M tape necessary). The 4 screws are hidden behind the driver.
The front ring is the same 2mm thick and also hiding the screws behind. That’s why the front driver is a bid set back and not plan like the original. But I love the clean look
Back plate / binding poste plate:
3 mm thick stainless steel that I polished (no painting)
Hi Bcasa,
I haven't damped mine inside. Only the crossover is housed / packed a bit in damping wool.
At the beginning I was damping the bass driver region a bit but I found the bass without any damping the best.
I saw another W5 version that was damped a bit at the inner sides before clueing.
Perhaps yo try it out before glueing it toghether finally.
I haven't damped mine inside. Only the crossover is housed / packed a bit in damping wool.
At the beginning I was damping the bass driver region a bit but I found the bass without any damping the best.
I saw another W5 version that was damped a bit at the inner sides before clueing.
Perhaps yo try it out before glueing it toghether finally.
All your clones will not sound like the real Boenicke W5. Not even a fraction as good. Sorry to tell.
You may get the parts, worth less than 100$, but the REAL Boenicke sound comes from a special treatment you can not duplicate. All Boenicke products are soaked in a special formulated snake oil, made from the Swiss mountain cobra. This essential audio snake oil is prohibited from any export and even sale to non members of the secret "Swiss Snake Oilers Audio Society".
You may get the parts, worth less than 100$, but the REAL Boenicke sound comes from a special treatment you can not duplicate. All Boenicke products are soaked in a special formulated snake oil, made from the Swiss mountain cobra. This essential audio snake oil is prohibited from any export and even sale to non members of the secret "Swiss Snake Oilers Audio Society".
Hi, can you share the 2D CNC file? My friend who's doing the woodworking can't use the Fusion 360 files
fyi - measurements Boenicke W5
https://www.audioasylum.com/message...ed-in-the-boenicke-w5-until-i-researched-them
This one is similar, measures better, you could build it to look like the W5.
$ plans- SoundBlab
https://soundblab.net/slimline-stand-mount-speaker-build/
https://soundblab.net/product/slimline-stand-mount-stereo-speakers-v1-0-build-plan/
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I tried a lot of different drivers in this build. Just because I like the looks... For me the best little driver I used here was the Tang Band W3 1285. It sounded much nicer than the FE85 and was still cheap enough. W3 1878 was OK too and you can go much deeper before crossing to sub, but this drivers are a bit too pricey and they only bring joy if you get some matched pair.
I would love to test the MAOP 5 here, but too expensive just for a test...
I would love to test the MAOP 5 here, but too expensive just for a test...
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If you build a miniature locomotive from pure gold, you will not expect it to pull a train on real rails. It will only be an overpriced toy, but some will buy and enjoy it. If you look at it from the right angle, it may even look like a real locomotive, made from gold...
can you spell "Fabergé egg"?
If you buy such a tiny speaker, expensively made from expensive wood with cheap speaker components, do not expect to work like a real HIFI speaker.
The interesting thing about it is the huge price tag, which only a few can pay. Not good, but exclusive is the thing about it. If you find the right setting and the right music, it may even produce a nice "ping" of a triangle, hanging in the room. Any other music will sound like a 12$ kitchen radio, but that's the musics fault..
Someone building a copy of it may make an even bettter speaker than the original, if he only uses his ears and some objectivity, maybe a microphone.
As we live in the times of internet reviews, anyone can buy a favorable story about any ill natured camel. So facts are just a matter of how much you pay to the fact checker. Maybe the price is not even too high, if you consider how much the manufacturer has to pay for the reviews.
I think "copy the look, but not it's sound" is a good advice.
can you spell "Fabergé egg"?
If you buy such a tiny speaker, expensively made from expensive wood with cheap speaker components, do not expect to work like a real HIFI speaker.
The interesting thing about it is the huge price tag, which only a few can pay. Not good, but exclusive is the thing about it. If you find the right setting and the right music, it may even produce a nice "ping" of a triangle, hanging in the room. Any other music will sound like a 12$ kitchen radio, but that's the musics fault..
Someone building a copy of it may make an even bettter speaker than the original, if he only uses his ears and some objectivity, maybe a microphone.
As we live in the times of internet reviews, anyone can buy a favorable story about any ill natured camel. So facts are just a matter of how much you pay to the fact checker. Maybe the price is not even too high, if you consider how much the manufacturer has to pay for the reviews.
I think "copy the look, but not it's sound" is a good advice.
I'm not so sure. A few years ago at an audio show I walked past a stand with some playing and the sound caused me to turn round. It was something I had heard before in a PC shop but not expected to hear at an audio show. Reading forum comments about the show afterwards they had made a strong favourable impression with a fair few. On a similar note there is this strongly positive review in a UK broadsheet newspaper this morning about the spatial capabilities of a (likely well designed and engineered) single consumer speaker that "probably doesn't need more than one in each room". Now there are things that can be done with multiple drivers in a single cabinet but it is hardly comparable with what can be done with multiple drivers in multiple cabinets. Something pretty strange seems to have happened to mainstream appreciation of sound quality.
Hello! I made W5 clone for myself to listen at home more than one year ago. I compared the sound of mine and originals one. It's sounds the same.
3-way ported loudspeaker_8.jpg | 3-way ported
3-way ported loudspeaker_5.jpg | 3-way ported
good luck with your projects )
6104]@RomanMarts[/USER] please help with your 3d file amd crossover design... mail-anuratnam3060@gmail.com
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