It's just me. I prefer to have the pot resistance far far below the input impedance of the amplifier; it reduces thermal noise (which is proportional to sqrt(R)) and it maintains the pot manufacturer's "taper" (resistance vs rotation percentage) because the input impedance doesn't load the pot. If you don't share this preference, feel free to use whatever pot you like.
Thanks Mark. I had a suspicion the pot would interact with the other input components
but wanted to better understand the situation (plus I had a couple of 50K Alps pots on hand..). Is there a specific value for the SGC you'd recommend?
I use a volume pot on my amps because my experience tells me there may always be a situation where I need to drop the volume in a hurry and also because I've given amps as graduation gifts and as such I can't control what gets used as a source.
but wanted to better understand the situation (plus I had a couple of 50K Alps pots on hand..). Is there a specific value for the SGC you'd recommend?
I use a volume pot on my amps because my experience tells me there may always be a situation where I need to drop the volume in a hurry and also because I've given amps as graduation gifts and as such I can't control what gets used as a source.
I striped out a different project from my test chassis and hooked up the compact 3886 (with a slightly earlier revision PSU.) It is quiet, works and sounds fantastic, even with the less than optimal wiring and layout that used a lot of preexisting holes. 
I'm very pleased.
Anybody else have one built? I'm going to build up the super gain clone as well as the compact and have them in much better looking chassis than this one.
I'm very pleased.
Anybody else have one built? I'm going to build up the super gain clone as well as the compact and have them in much better looking chassis than this one.
Attachments
That is one heck of a lightbox you've got there. It's so bright, it's even hurting my eyes through my monitor.
In the spirit of "use what you have" I found these 4.75 x 8" sinks that I must have ordered as extra at some point (also IEC from Whammy kit!)... Seems like they will be perfect for making a tidy amp about 14.5" wide—the donut in the pic IS the recommended Antek—but it's too tall for 4.75" tall chassis so I sourced a 150VA 2x22 that will fit the chassis on an L bracket. Top, bottom and back will be 3mm sheet aluminum—I'll add some holes for airflow—maybe even have them CNCd... front will be wood based... Not sure yet of look....
And I need to buckle down and figure out how to set the Klever Klipper! One of the many reasons I wanted to build this—more learning!
Also making good use of the the L brackets from the BOM!
And I need to buckle down and figure out how to set the Klever Klipper! One of the many reasons I wanted to build this—more learning!
Also making good use of the the L brackets from the BOM!
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
turn off crack
Mark,
Can you elaborate on the work around that you and dhsittim came up with for this problem? I'm experiencing the same problem several seconds (4 - 5) after I power the amp down. There is no turn on thump however.
Mark,
Can you elaborate on the work around that you and dhsittim came up with for this problem? I'm experiencing the same problem several seconds (4 - 5) after I power the amp down. There is no turn on thump however.