Best electrolytic capacitors

Buzzwords like "soundstage" are a strong indicator for audiofoolery, pure anecdotical and without any proof of evidence.

Again you don't know what you are talking about. Your knowledge about professional audio recording is factual zero. Please go to a pro recording studio and say that again, they will laugh you off. Seriously go read something about it or just stop writing TOTAL NONSENSE!

You can start reading here: Common Recordings For Testing Soundstage Depth | Steve Hoffman Music Forums
 
True, the bass is not very tight and little overblown. But if you have to tame the upper mids or when you want to get more bass & body it delivers. If the Nichicons (KW, FG, KZ, PV, KA, KG) get to hot in the upper mids you can tame it with a smaller Silmic II.



Could you tell us if those particularities that you perceive are always with the same reproduction system?
In that case, how is it composed? Source, amplifier and speakers, please.
 
I have several hundred pieces of hifi/high-end stuff here. I use different speakers and headphones for testing. My main stereo system for personal listening is (at this time):

Source:
Audio PC with JRiver Media player -> USB out
Linn LP-12 with DIYgeddon Ekos tonearm Shure Ultra 500
Kenwood KD-7010 Denon DL-103R
Lenco L-75 modded Shure M-95
Systemdek IIX Shure M-95

Lundahl MC-Transformers
Opamp phono preamp MM/MC

AK4490 DAC 32bit/358kHz. Linear PSU.
Musical Fidelity Tubalog

Preamplifier:
Opamp preamp with OPA1612 gain and OPA2228 Buffer. Linear phase corrected PSU. TKD pot.
Tube preamp with 6N6P external PSU with only film & foil & PIO caps and Lundahl transformers. TKD pot.

Power amps:
Accuphase P-300
Accuphase P-300X
Sansui AU-517 modded
TPA-3255
Quad 303

Speaker:
Tang Band W4-1337 Titanium in hybrid BR/Horn
Alpair 10.3 in BR.
Dayton PS-220 in BR.
Triangle Titus E
Triangle Minimum
Philips AD-9710 in BR
Saba Greencone in breezer

Headphones:
Sennheiser HD-580 Precision
Grado SR-80
Several Philips top of the line phones
Stax Gamma Pro with SRD-X energizer
AKG Studio and more
 
Last edited:
Holco military resistors:

Old ones made in UK, new ones made in the US. Exactly same resistor but the caps of the US resistors are magnetic the old UK not.

UK sound: Strong bass & body maybe a tad too much, especially in the upper bass. Smoother than most MF resistors for sure but soundwise still far away from carbon.

US sound: Unbearable upper mids & highs, unclean and much too bright.

I'm not talkin about nuances, they do sound extremely different. Only change is magnetic vs non-magnetic material.

BTW, the sound change from UK to US resistor is there if your home is wired with whatever...
 
I was asked to... :rolleyes:

It's all I needed to know. It is impossible to hear differences (objectively speaking, since human beings do not have auditory memory, it is a fact) exchanging capacitors in different systems, wherever it is, in the crossover network, in the path of the amplifier signal, etc. Wherever you want to make comparisons, just changing capacitors will take time for you to not be able to make a real comparison.
I had the slight hope that he would tell me "I always use this system and I have a switching system that replaces a certain capacitor with another in a fraction of a second"

No snake oil, golden ears? It could be the case, so I have no choice but to consider him a very special being ...... :D
 
It's all I needed to know. It is impossible to hear differences (objectively speaking, since human beings do not have auditory memory, it is a fact) exchanging capacitors in different systems, wherever it is, in the crossover network, in the path of the amplifier signal, etc. Wherever you want to make comparisons, just changing capacitors will take time for you to not be able to make a real comparison.
I had the slight hope that he would tell me "I always use this system and I have a switching system that replaces a certain capacitor with another in a fraction of a second"

No snake oil, golden ears? It could be the case, so I have no choice but to consider him a very special being ...... :D

I take an ELMA switch and solder the caps (or resistors) on the inputs so I can change in a second (crossovers, PSU, signal etc.). I write down what I hear, sometimes my wife changes the inputs so I can make a blindtest. But best is to listen to one component over a long period of time with different music.
 
Disabled Account
Joined 2002
The 1/4" long steel resistor leads affect the sound but the miles of steel and aluminum wiring feeding your home doesn't?

If they used steel where you are from that would be a first to me. Normally it is copper and aluminium.

Preference for tinned copper lead wires too. These don't destroy my clippers and they don't corrode as much. They sound better too but that is no news. Anyone that uses passive parts in quantities for 30 or 40 years sees what is happening with passive part quality now.
 
Last edited:
I have several hundred pieces of hifi/high-end stuff here. I use different speakers and headphones for testing. My main stereo system for personal listening is (at this time):

Source:
Audio PC with JRiver Media player -> USB out
Linn LP-12 with DIYgeddon Ekos tonearm Shure Ultra 500
Kenwood KD-7010 Denon DL-103R
Lenco L-75 modded Shure M-95
Systemdek IIX Shure M-95

Lundahl MC-Transformers
Opamp phono preamp MM/MC

AK4490 DAC 32bit/358kHz. Linear PSU.
Musical Fidelity Tubalog

Preamplifier:
Opamp preamp with OPA1612 gain and OPA2228 Buffer. Linear phase corrected PSU. TKD pot.
Tube preamp with 6N6P external PSU with only film & foil & PIO caps and Lundahl transformers. TKD pot.

Power amps:
Accuphase P-300
Accuphase P-300X
Sansui AU-517 modded
TPA-3255
Quad 303

Speaker:
Tang Band W4-1337 Titanium in hybrid BR/Horn
Alpair 10.3 in BR.
Dayton PS-220 in BR.
Triangle Titus E
Triangle Minimum
Philips AD-9710 in BR
Saba Greencone in breezer

Headphones:
Sennheiser HD-580 Precision
Grado SR-80
Several Philips top of the line phones
Stax Gamma Pro with SRD-X energizer
AKG Studio and more

You didn't mention what USB cable you are using. Must be a truly high end one.
 
If they used steel where you are from that would be a first to me. Normally it is copper and aluminium.

Preference for tinned copper lead wires too. These don't destroy my clippers and they don't corrode as much. They sound better too but that is no news. Anyone that uses passive parts in quantities for 30 or 40 years sees what is happening with passive part quality now.

So true...
 
And you call yourself a trained audiophile, what a joke. You should try one of these Galileo UEF USB - Synergistic Research and you will be surprised by the huge difference it makes to the system overall sound.

The difference is striking when compared to any other cable I tested. First and foremost, this high end cable recreates the sense of space that I missed with other cables. It still has a sense of clarity, but it’s not quite as sharp as other cables. At first take this could seem like a negative, but other cable’s sound actually became a bit fatiguing after a while whereas this one was consistently enjoyable even after long periods of listening.

Secondly, it brought a depth and timbre to my music that I haven’t heard before from my system. It was like going from an average MP3 rip to a beautifully mastered, lossless high-res file – I was instantly addicted. There was more space in the sound, both in the overall size of the sound stage, but also in terms of the space around each instrument/sound. I can only assume that this is a result of the better isolation, allowing every sound to be more accurately rendered by the DAC with no hash/background noise to muddy the end signal.

So pony up and fix your system, the poor USB cable you are using is not allowing you to correctly identify the electrolytic capacitors sound properties.