Tried out a few caps and other components with a powerfull neodynium magnet.
Panasonic FM = magnetic
Sanyo OSCON = magnetic
Nippon Chemi ASW & ASF = non magnetic
BC Components light blue electrolytic cap = magnetic
BC components special film cap of some kind = magnetic
Wima MKS, MKP and more = non magnetic
Evox PP cap = non magnetic
Phillips and NS NE5534/5532 = magnetic
So iron must be present in the leads in some way.
Btw. the most obvious reason for using iron in leads is strength.
I´ve tried to scratch the tin away from the leads on some capacitors, and always found copper underneath.
But it is obvious that also iron is used in some caps.
Panasonic FM = magnetic
Sanyo OSCON = magnetic
Nippon Chemi ASW & ASF = non magnetic
BC Components light blue electrolytic cap = magnetic
BC components special film cap of some kind = magnetic
Wima MKS, MKP and more = non magnetic
Evox PP cap = non magnetic
Phillips and NS NE5534/5532 = magnetic
So iron must be present in the leads in some way.
Btw. the most obvious reason for using iron in leads is strength.
I´ve tried to scratch the tin away from the leads on some capacitors, and always found copper underneath.
But it is obvious that also iron is used in some caps.
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I´ve been cutting leads on a lot of Electrolytic and other caps, and so far, I´ve never seen as much as just a shadow of steel. Why would anyone do that?
Also Panasonic FC features tinned copper. Steel is very hard, and you will not have any doubts if it is steel you are cutting.
And why would anyone ruin the capacitors ESR data and in addition spend more money with steel leads?
Actually and unfortunately there are a lot of resistors and capacitors both film and electrolytic which have tinned copper clad steel leads. Check with a magnet if you do not believe me.
I do try when possible to purchase passives made with non-magnetic materials for things that are directly in the audio path, and don't bother much elsewhere.
The leads are tinned copper clad steel wire, that is why you see copper when you scrape the tinning off. Keep scraping and if the lead is steel you will eventually see that too.
The material used in the leads of course influences the end result and eventually data. But th data given by the manufacturer is actually measured with the actual leads mounted.
So if low ESR @ all frequencies is wanted, you can go for the cap with the best ESR data regardsless of materials used.
I also think that the solder itself is a somewhat bigger problem than the leads are.
So I see that the film caps (e.g. Wima) have non magnetic leads.
So it's even more reason to use bypass caps in power supply, no? I found that MKP Wima's improved the sound a lot in my DAC's analog stage power supply, as compared to just using Panasonic FM & FC's. They made things sound smoother and more colorful.
So it's even more reason to use bypass caps in power supply, no? I found that MKP Wima's improved the sound a lot in my DAC's analog stage power supply, as compared to just using Panasonic FM & FC's. They made things sound smoother and more colorful.
Right you are!
But choose to bypass just beside the component to be power supplied. Not at the main smoothing caps, but so that every single powerneeding component only sees one bypass. That is in my experience the way to do it.
And you are right, good bypass caps makes the sound more natural and smooth.
Try also Evox SMR polyphenylene sulfid caps. Wima also makes these types, but I´ve never succeeded in coming across them.
However the Evox types should work just as well.
From a technical viewpoint these polyphenyl sulfid caps is superior to PP and polyester, from a sonic point of view they completely crushes the competition. I´d very much recommend them, and btw. they have copper leads.
So far I´ve only tried them out as decoupling/bypass caps in a discrete DAC design, and only for analog purposes, more precisely on the analog side of a CS8416, on the analog side of CS4398 and in discrete series regulators as well as in shunt regulators, in the latter not for decoupling, but for filtering purposes.
They came in as substitude for Wima MKP caps And the result was very surprising. I´ve always regarded Wima caps as some of the best ones, as well as evox, BC components, Panasonic and others, and they surely are so, but I just wonder why only Evox recommends these types for audio.
Maybe this is because "audio purposes" normally are regarded inferior to almost anything else. Automotive, aerospace, industrial and general purposes, I think is regarded with much more respect and prestige. But never the less Evox has noted, that they are exellent for audio applications to.
They also should theoretically be very good for decoupling digital circuits, as they feature low ESR @ high frequencies and very low loss, but they have to be accompanied by ceramics though, which might make them less important in such places.
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I came to this post because I'm looking for the best electrolytics to replace 470uf Sprague515D(orange) which are no longer available in the ouput section of a Krell KPS20i CD player. As one writer in this forum said "the best cap depends on the application" so I will be as specific as possible with what I need. These caps are not in the signal path but used to power op amps & transistors in output section. The transistors are in a class "A" condfiguration. Some of these electrolytics are bypassed with polystyrene & some with teflon. I realize that these film caps make the most difference so It might not make much difference which one I put but I would like the best possible for this high end machine. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Evox's data sheets appear to indicate a dissipation factor two to three times that of polypropylene for the SMR series. They don't publish DA numbers.
IMHO the best advice is the one from Mr. Pass:
Be aware that bypass caps do refine the sound of the electrolytics but their basic character remains.
According to Wima the DA is 0.05%
Read for yourself here: WIMA
I think the material is the controlling factor of DA, not the manufacturer.
So IMHO if you you choose Wima or Evox, might be of no matter.
Btw. I don´t think heatwill be a problem in normal decoupling in audio applications.
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In case anyone is interested here is a link comparing PPS to what it generally replaced the old polycarbonate caps.
For my thinking the main advantages of PPS over Polypropylene are size (Dialectric constant is higher) Stability, and potentially temperature (if you don't care about increasing DS above 100c), Price is more than likely an advantage as well. I'm not sure if I would use them for coupling, but after seeing the wima link Kurt posted (especially that DA is basically the same as for PP) I would consider it now.
Tony.
For my thinking the main advantages of PPS over Polypropylene are size (Dialectric constant is higher) Stability, and potentially temperature (if you don't care about increasing DS above 100c), Price is more than likely an advantage as well. I'm not sure if I would use them for coupling, but after seeing the wima link Kurt posted (especially that DA is basically the same as for PP) I would consider it now.
Tony.
You´ll find 5 mm PPS caps here: WIMA
Only Panasonic seems to abandon through hole PPS caps and only do the SMD types.
As I see it, the PPS types seems to be very stable @ all temps up til 130-140 dgr. And also they seems to have very little memory effect (DA).
ESR also seems to be very low and very constant vs. both temp and frequency.
So to me it seems as a very interesting cap at first glanse. But I never conclude anything from data alone. There might still be downsides afterall, but having tried them out, I must give in. I find them very good for audio.
Hello. I need to buy some 15000uF caps for building a Firstwatt F2. I'm trying to cut down the shipping costs, so I'd first consider the Mouser offer because that's where I'll buy almost all the stuff. I have 3 options there, all Nichicon:
1. VR series (miniature sized), price 2,81 € (I'll buy more than 10)
2. VY series (wide temperature range), price 4,69 €
3. KW series (standard for audio), price 5,25 €
What do you suggest? Is it worth is going for the pricier one? If it is, should I go for the - 55 C to + 105 C rated VY or for the "audio" KW?
Thanks a lot.
1. VR series (miniature sized), price 2,81 € (I'll buy more than 10)
2. VY series (wide temperature range), price 4,69 €
3. KW series (standard for audio), price 5,25 €
What do you suggest? Is it worth is going for the pricier one? If it is, should I go for the - 55 C to + 105 C rated VY or for the "audio" KW?
Thanks a lot.
Some inteesting notes can be found here: PPS stands in for polycarbonate in film capacitors - Electronic Products