As long as you have a matching chamfer it matrters not. I assume by drop in you are talking bout a rebate?
dave
dave
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Great.. Very cool.Pensil cab finished it looks great 😉 now just need to tolex it or put duratex or something similar 😉View attachment 1075561
Pensil cab finished it looks great 😉 now just need to tolex it or put duratex or something similar 😉View attachment 1075561
If your floor has the greys in it maybe you could get veneer with matching grain appearance and use vinegar to grey it (acourding to the google box). That is if you like jjasniew's idea of matching the floor.
Jeremy
The Pencil cabinets look very good.
I tried laminating a test XPS cabinet with vinyl peel&stick wood-look flooring strips. Not recommended. Someone with actual skills could probably make it work. There is probably a similar grain and color to match.
I tried laminating a test XPS cabinet with vinyl peel&stick wood-look flooring strips. Not recommended. Someone with actual skills could probably make it work. There is probably a similar grain and color to match.
Attachments
FYI/FWIW/YMMV: I quickly gave up on any kind of veneering, so the majority of the DIY consumer speakers, bookcases, coffee, end tables, etc., I was involved with way back when were wallpapered with thick textured wallpaper to deal with the typically less than perfect joints, etc., with good enough results on all getting good marks for fooling folks, especially the Ga. Marble architectural, column/tower (MLTL) speakers where only the top was marble (for mass loading).
Noticed the plan says to fill the pensil cabinet with polyfill. Should i just tuck in it or should it be glued to the sides on the panels all around ?
It should be VERY well teased and it will hold itself in place. It takes significant time to properly tease, don’t short course;f on this criticsl step.
Typically people seem to end up with about 2/3rds what is specified. The back is removable so that damping can be adjusted to room, placement, taste, and the amp used to drive them
Before and after (40g acoustistuff)
dave
Typically people seem to end up with about 2/3rds what is specified. The back is removable so that damping can be adjusted to room, placement, taste, and the amp used to drive them
Before and after (40g acoustistuff)

dave
Some people claim that polyfill doesnt do anything tho :| Well not sure so will test it myself. What is expected to improve? More forward sound? fuller?
Yea the plan says around 366g per cabinet which seems quite a lot tho 🙂
Yea the plan says around 366g per cabinet which seems quite a lot tho 🙂
That will take away some ripple.Some people claim that polyfill doesnt do anything tho :| Well not sure so will test it myself. What is expected to improve? More forward sound? fuller?
Yea the plan says around 366g per cabinet which seems quite a lot tho 🙂
But to much it will take away the bass.
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Some people claim that polyfill doesnt do anything tho
It is the case that different polyfills have different character, but make no difference? Either wrong amount of not phluffed up (happens often). I tend to use acoustistuff…
Any quarter-wve line needs to have at least some of the ripple reduced (unwanted harmonics). Stuffing has been the number 1 tool, but more recently discovered tools like mass-loading and driver offset now make the calculaus more complicated.
dave
Have not seen Scottmoose lately. Has he vaccination?It is the case that different polyfills have different character, but make no difference? Either wrong amount of not phluffed up (happens often). I tend to use acoustistuff…
Any quarter-wve line needs to have at least some of the ripple reduced (unwanted harmonics). Stuffing has been the number 1 tool, but more recently discovered tools like mass-loading and driver offset now make the calculaus more complicated.
dave
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