Behringer iNuke NU3000 Measurements

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May consider that unit. I am doing ok with (right now) a main rig consisting of: PC (media source) -> Audiobox USB (DAC, also doubles as mic amp for REW fiddling!) -> cheap tube headphone amp -> MiniDSP 2x4 -> (two each) NU3000, one bridged to my "SUB", a 12" Peerless XXLS in a 12-foot Sonotube (10 1/2 feet actually!); NU3000 #2 driving pair of Bose 901 (200 Hz x-over). I just "installed" my own subjective house curve into the MiniDSP: pretty damned good! Now to address the remaining noises ... some hum, but the Laptop's fan is the worst.
 
I'm NO expert in audio but one of the reasons Pro Audio amps don't get anywhere near rated power in a home audio system is the input voltage.
In general Home Audio input voltage(from preamp) would be -10dbv= 0.447 Volts or 0.316 VRMS where as the "Pro" audio amp needs +4dBu=1.736 Volts or 1.228 VRMS.

The output of a home audio Preamp isn't set up to drive a Pro Audio power amp so you crank the preamp up and get more hiss to get more volume. I don't know but maybe there's an outboard preamp "booster" one could use to raise the preamp level to that of a Mixer?

I am running the DSP amp in a hifi system with a passive pre & no issues. You can boost the gain in the DSP section to compensate.
 
I have not had any problem driving mine with with a my preamp outs. Even when using Y cables to split each preout channel in half. It is spec'd for 6V output though. I think this is pretty normal for dedicated pre's. The problem can come when using HT receivers which can be rated at about 1V I think. I'm also able to use my mid price Pioneer receiver without problems though because when auto eq is run, it boost the gain on that channel. I don't think you'd have any problems driving it with just about anything.

On an unrelated note, I recently connected the Inuke to my mains because I was unhappy with how the Peachtree was driving them.... unbelievable difference. Tonally, they were pretty much identical, which surprised me because the Peachtree sounds very good. But apparently I have always underestimated the benefits of real headroom. They are now so dynamic, have much better bass control, and sound just as good at low levels as high. I used to have to get the volume pretty high before they'd start to sing, but now almost any volume sounds good and exciting. Only tiny downside is a little hiss from the tweeter, but I can only hear it from about 6"; strangely it doesn't change in volume as the gain or volume knobs change.

Now I'm looking into another Pro amp so the Inuke can get back to sub duty. Thinking about the Crown XLS with their adjustable high pass. Perfect for running mains with a sub in two channel stereo.
 
Depends what you mean by a "built-in pre-amp".
You can plug an iPod/laptop straight in, or you can plug a pre-amp in if you like.

Any "straight amp" still has some kind of pre-amp built-in, just to receive line-level signals and pass them to the amplification stage.

Chris
 
I am posting some measurement data on the NU3000 that might be of use to those considering the purchase.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/213071-behringer-inuke-nu3000-measurements-3.html#post3663715

Frequency Response:
Attachment #1: Resistive load test
Attachment #2: Capacitive load test
Attachment #3: Inductive load test
Attachment #4: ESL load test


In Summary:
- For the money this amp puts out plenty of power, but load induced HF response changes indicate it is probably best used for subwoofer duty.
- The DSP is pretty slick. In particular, very handy to be able to dial in limiter setting in real time to keep woofer excursion below the clatter zone.
- Not recommended for driving ESLs.

I recently compared the NU3000 with a similar power class AB and found the treble region a bit strange. The stereo image was not as precise and image width not as wide. I then looked at the outputs at 20 kHz, just below the NU3000 filter cut-off frequency. With the class AB amp input and output level matched to be identical, the attached photo show input and output overlaid. The NU3000 showed significant phase shift between input and output at 20 kHz and a high noise floor. The filter only gets rid of the switching noise components just above the audio band. The noise rises again from around 50 kHz. I would speculate that IMD may be the reason for the audible effect.
I agree these amps are probably best suited to sub-woofer duty.
 

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I buy behringer inuke 3000dsp i tested yesterday and have some issue i have just 29.3v clean output to the speaker when i go more then go intro distortion on my distortion detector. This is right or i have bad unit?
For me its more look like inuke1000dsp in case 3000dsp. My old amp rated to 500w rms and i have like 34v output. Tell me if every one 3000dsp have just 29v output or i just have bad one ?
 
With out crossover or filter or eq no distortion at input, try input from onkyo tx-nr5010, straight from iphone to amp from laptop to amp same result around 30v clean signal on A , B channal. I input 40hz as a test i can go to 50v but after like 32v my dd-1 distortion detector detect distortion
I wannt using this amp fo power subwoofer in home.
 

ICG

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Joined 2007
Okay, then that's odd since you only need an balanced input signal of 852 mV to get 50V output (35.43 dB gain), the pre-out of the onkyo delivers 5,5V though. The DD-1 signal rigger led voltage is only 750mV, so not much below the maximum input at full gain.

It can't be a iNuke 1000 though, it doesn't have an output voltage of 50V.

The THD at 50V output @8 ohm is rated 1% on the iNuke NU3000. Are you sure the gain on the iNuke is all the way up? Are you sure the source is really clean? Neither laptops nor iphones deliver clean signals at their maximum volume. Why don't you use the test CD of the DD-1?

Your unbalanced/balanced adapter probably then misbehaves or makes the Receiver behave badly. Try using one adapter with an audio transformer and check the Receiver distortion. Or you probably pick up some noise in your chain.
 

ICG

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Joined 2007
Is the volume on the iNuke set to max? What do you mean with 'Onkyo +6 amp like 3/4' and 'Onkyo + 12 amp like 1/4'? +12dB and position of the volume knob? The position of the knob does not say anything about the actual output voltage. You're most likely overdriving something and have somewhere a loss of gain. Please check the complete gain structure and post it here together with the settings.

You can use almost any DI-Box to change from balanced to unbalanced (or the other way round)
 
I tested the amp through my dvd player and a 40hz tone at 0db my onkyo receiver has clean output to max volume with 3.8volt output when i measure the volts after the amp the most i was able to get was 32v clean output and then 42v max distorted power. It doesnt matter if i lower the volume on my onkyo receiver and turn the gain up on the amp i will still get the same result, just this way i can go more on the gain, when i had my receiver all the way the gain was set to about half and it was giving me distorted output.
 
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