In my other amps, I always twisted the leads coming from the bridges, going to the power supply, presumably DC now.
Do these leads really need to be twisted? I wonder about that every time. In this build the leads would be less than 4-5 inches.
I will likely twist these as I did the others. I guess I have it in my head than the DC doesnt cause associated hum problems like A/C does.
Which may be very wrong!
Thanks
Russellc
Do these leads really need to be twisted? I wonder about that every time. In this build the leads would be less than 4-5 inches.
I will likely twist these as I did the others. I guess I have it in my head than the DC doesnt cause associated hum problems like A/C does.
Which may be very wrong!
Thanks
Russellc
I forgot
Doug MacLeod - Come to Find ( Charlie Musselwhite is on a few tracks)
War - Greatest Hits (Low Rider got played out at all the trade shows)
The Moondance (latest release) - great bass lines
My PSU for the18VAC amps is in a separate box. In that box is CLC - I use a Powercon cable to amps which also have Aleksandar's Cap boards.
So basically CLCRC
Now doing the same for XA252 and Singing Bush.
I'm also very lucky because the Tannoys like all my amps 😊
Doug MacLeod - Come to Find ( Charlie Musselwhite is on a few tracks)
War - Greatest Hits (Low Rider got played out at all the trade shows)
The Moondance (latest release) - great bass lines
My PSU for the18VAC amps is in a separate box. In that box is CLC - I use a Powercon cable to amps which also have Aleksandar's Cap boards.
So basically CLCRC
Now doing the same for XA252 and Singing Bush.
I'm also very lucky because the Tannoys like all my amps 😊
Russell,
Let’s think this through. There is no more need to wonder!
As ZM has stated, immediately after the bridge rectifier, you have a ‘pulsating’ DC waveform. In other words, DC with some ‘ripple’ thrown in. Notice how the pulsating DC in the 1st scope diagram, gets less pulsating once the filtering effects of the 1st capacitor, then inductor, then second capacitor come into play.
So yes, twist the wires immediately coming from the bridge rectifier to the PS board holding your capacitors. AC ‘hum’ is not what you want.
Furthermore, I would review some of the basic videos from the ‘Engineering Mindset’ on YT to understand the function of a bridge rectifier. Which diodes are conducting and which diodes are not conducting when AC is being converted to DC is important to understand and appreciate. What is a diode doing in forward conduction and what is a diode doing in reverse conduction are questions you will answer I am sure. This is basic PS design. How diodes control the FLOW of current is also important to understand (and downright amazing to be honest).
Best,
Anand.
Let’s think this through. There is no more need to wonder!
As ZM has stated, immediately after the bridge rectifier, you have a ‘pulsating’ DC waveform. In other words, DC with some ‘ripple’ thrown in. Notice how the pulsating DC in the 1st scope diagram, gets less pulsating once the filtering effects of the 1st capacitor, then inductor, then second capacitor come into play.
So yes, twist the wires immediately coming from the bridge rectifier to the PS board holding your capacitors. AC ‘hum’ is not what you want.
Furthermore, I would review some of the basic videos from the ‘Engineering Mindset’ on YT to understand the function of a bridge rectifier. Which diodes are conducting and which diodes are not conducting when AC is being converted to DC is important to understand and appreciate. What is a diode doing in forward conduction and what is a diode doing in reverse conduction are questions you will answer I am sure. This is basic PS design. How diodes control the FLOW of current is also important to understand (and downright amazing to be honest).
Best,
Anand.
naah, more like
Tannoys likes ZM likes Tannoys
and, not to forget, Tannoys are just Poor Man's RCA LC1
Twist it is. I always did before, I guess there was a good reason. I am dropping down to 12 gauge, the 10 gauge is the dickens to try to twist!
I got some nice 10 and 12 gauge mil spec teflon insulated wire from Apexjr. The 10 gauge is going from Power supply boards to amp, as well as extending the transformer wires. The 12 gauge is used anywhere "bendy" or twisty, like around the IEC Plug socket.
Russellc
I got some nice 10 and 12 gauge mil spec teflon insulated wire from Apexjr. The 10 gauge is going from Power supply boards to amp, as well as extending the transformer wires. The 12 gauge is used anywhere "bendy" or twisty, like around the IEC Plug socket.
Russellc
Does it image better in the high frequencies? That may explain the head in the vice effect.
Well, there is a well-balanced sound off-axis, and then there is the spot where imaging is the best. I have noticed that the better the amp is at imaging, the more impactful the difference is between the listening position and listening off-axis etc. Although, speakers like Acoustats are head in a vice and that is that...
that means speakers not worthy
Audio Note AN K/LX
Acoustic Energy AE1
I don't think so. The AE1s are incredibly good at imaging, likely one of the best still... the ANs are extremely good at it too.
I'm deep into audiophile nervosa....
Interestingly.... the DAC is spot on.... the P3 introduces more of an unbalance... the other day I swapped the Burson opamps around (L to R ), and made sure they sat better. Only listened to three records, but now the imaging is spot on.... I did, however, set the AN to point straightforward. At a loss of pin point imaging, things got centered.
See... my previous Grado cartridge got a bent cantilever ( I have no clue ) and it had a slight imbalance to the right. I could hear it.... and so could guests. It was slight, I could fix it with the balance control, but the new set up has no balance control.
Last edited:
well, your speakers, your wallet, your ears, your choice
but that is not going to prevent me of mocking ya
anyhow - those are not worthy of ZM's amps
for ZM's amps you need big cones, efficient and sensitive speakers ...... that's in spirit of A Class amplification
of course, I cheer combining biiig A Class amps with whatever speakers - Rich Pa is chilled Pa
^ Zeñor Moderatione.
You want lots of big woofer cones.... I got lots of big woofer cones... I did have the ADS L810s hooked up a couple of times. When hooked up with the Entecs now you got LOTS of woofer cones. Wanna Disco? I got your Disco in there... 🎉
At 93 db/watt, with dual 8 inch woofers. I've had the crossovers re-capped and one of the woofers needed a new spyder ( came with a voice coil )... other than that, they've lasted my, since new, from '78.
But the imaging is the best they had in '77.
I have the Entec woofers for bass... so I like prefer the main amp to just drive the smaller speakers which excel from the mid bass all the way up to the sky.
( BTW, I bought the AN speakers at 40 cents to the dollar... so it was a worthwhile deal. I've had the AE1s (two pairs now) since new....).
You want lots of big woofer cones.... I got lots of big woofer cones... I did have the ADS L810s hooked up a couple of times. When hooked up with the Entecs now you got LOTS of woofer cones. Wanna Disco? I got your Disco in there... 🎉
At 93 db/watt, with dual 8 inch woofers. I've had the crossovers re-capped and one of the woofers needed a new spyder ( came with a voice coil )... other than that, they've lasted my, since new, from '78.
But the imaging is the best they had in '77.
I have the Entec woofers for bass... so I like prefer the main amp to just drive the smaller speakers which excel from the mid bass all the way up to the sky.
( BTW, I bought the AN speakers at 40 cents to the dollar... so it was a worthwhile deal. I've had the AE1s (two pairs now) since new....).