just remember .......... assembly of Japanese Bicycle Require Great Peace of Mind
it is funny bicycle, but whatever ....
Assembly is Therapy. I do love that journey. Almost feel disappointed when assembly is done. Until it plays! Without letting out the magic smoke.
Clearly you have achieved Great Peace of Mind, ZM. To the extent you seemingly don’t need sleep - it must be 2am where you are!!!!
sleeping is overrated 
anyway, when I finally go to sleep, I'm also not in a hurry to wake up
due to fact that I'm constantly reading instead of watching movies and serials, I'm having marathon CinemaScope dreams
what's not to like
anyway, when I finally go to sleep, I'm also not in a hurry to wake up
due to fact that I'm constantly reading instead of watching movies and serials, I'm having marathon CinemaScope dreams
what's not to like
I'm taking my sweet time with this one🙂
ZM, R1 330k seem not to be included in package, 100k was left over 2 pcs. Ok to put 100k there?
Can I use the smaller provided heatsinks on q1/q2? You have generously provided me with both smaller and larger ones.
Thanks!
ZM, R1 330k seem not to be included in package, 100k was left over 2 pcs. Ok to put 100k there?
Can I use the smaller provided heatsinks on q1/q2? You have generously provided me with both smaller and larger ones.
Thanks!
You use the single larger heatsink for Q1 and Q2. It goes Q1/Mica/heatsink/Mica/Q2. If you put R22 on the bottom of the PCB it makes it a little easier to install the heatsink. I assembled the heatsink/mosfets and inserted the assembly into the pads until the mica pads landed on the PCB.
Do you not have the space in the chassis for the heatsink?
Do you not have the space in the chassis for the heatsink?
Okay cool. The small heatsinks are reserved for SET or SIT iteration. It looks like you are building full mosfet. Have fun 🙂.
Make sure the bias pot is completely down when you start. You should still see some bias with the pot set at minimum.
Also, after you are done setting DC offset, a handy way not to lose the jumpers is to store them on one pin instead of across the two pins. I don't know why but it took me a while to think of that....
Make sure the bias pot is completely down when you start. You should still see some bias with the pot set at minimum.
Also, after you are done setting DC offset, a handy way not to lose the jumpers is to store them on one pin instead of across the two pins. I don't know why but it took me a while to think of that....
if there is any omission, feel free to blame Pa, not Mighty ZM
his blame, I was certainly thinking of something he's cooking, so hopla byebye with my concentration and awareness
feel free to put 100K in place of 330K but better to leave it out, and populate later when you obtain 330K
it's practically safe-pin in case you leave negative input floating, preventive of letting garbage in
heatsinks as Mike explained , though no need of back side mount of resistor - just leave enough clearance between transistor bodies and pcb - legs are long enough
My boards are almost complete for the all MOS OS version. I need some help to figure out where the caps go…
ZM sent:
4 - 1000uf 6.3v - C11, C12 (should these be rated for 16v, or is 6.3v okay?)
2 - 22uf 25v Silmic - C?
2 - 100uf 25v - C?
4 - 10uf 63v - C?
And confirming that R53 is not fitted for the all MOS OS version?
Thanks!
Glen
ZM sent:
4 - 1000uf 6.3v - C11, C12 (should these be rated for 16v, or is 6.3v okay?)
2 - 22uf 25v Silmic - C?
2 - 100uf 25v - C?
4 - 10uf 63v - C?
And confirming that R53 is not fitted for the all MOS OS version?
Thanks!
Glen
#624 schematic (link noted in #1; remember that you have short setting procedure there too)
1000uF for C11, C12
Silmic for input cap on neg side C2
100uF for C6
10uF for C1
pretty much all obvious, just have fate in your own logic
R53 ....... just take a look at linked post and on this schm
1000uF for C11, C12
Silmic for input cap on neg side C2
100uF for C6
10uF for C1
pretty much all obvious, just have fate in your own logic
R53 ....... just take a look at linked post and on this schm
Thanks ZM!
I have the schematic on post #624 saved, printed and posted on my bench as I check things off. I don’t see R53 listed on the schematic, and I also didn’t see it on the list of “All MOS Do Not Mount” on the SET and SIT schematics. R46 is listed twice on both. I see R53 on the SET diagram, so I concluded that it is unique to that application…
For C11, C12, confirming that the caps you sent rated at 6.3v are okay to use in those locations? Otherwise I have 50v rated Elna caps I can use there.
Appreciate your support as always!
-Glen
I have the schematic on post #624 saved, printed and posted on my bench as I check things off. I don’t see R53 listed on the schematic, and I also didn’t see it on the list of “All MOS Do Not Mount” on the SET and SIT schematics. R46 is listed twice on both. I see R53 on the SET diagram, so I concluded that it is unique to that application…
For C11, C12, confirming that the caps you sent rated at 6.3v are okay to use in those locations? Otherwise I have 50v rated Elna caps I can use there.
Appreciate your support as always!
-Glen
Progress Porn! 
My boards went together pretty fast over two days. I had an initial issue getting enough heat into the pads with various tips on my iron when soldering in the 3W resistors, but once I got it, I got it. The very last of those 20 fat resistors I soldered looks fantastic
I used a small chisel tip, high heat (800° F) and flux on all other components, and the rest of the job went very smoothly.
I like the CLC PSU in my SissySIT, so I will go for a CLC PSU here too. Planning 35vdc Rails with one Antek 28v, 300va donut per channel.
Also like my SissySIT, I would like this amp to get the monoblock treatment. I will need heatsinks the size of a Modushop 5U Deluxe, so I may end up piecing these monoblocks together using parts from the diyaudio store.
I would like the inputs to be both RCA, and XLR to take advantage of the balanced outputs from my preamp. My thought is to use a switch to toggle the “short for SE in” to go between SE and Bal if I ever need to.
Confirming that the pin out for the XLR is, Pin 1 (shield) to GND, Pin 2 to In+ and Pin3 to In- ?
My boards went together pretty fast over two days. I had an initial issue getting enough heat into the pads with various tips on my iron when soldering in the 3W resistors, but once I got it, I got it. The very last of those 20 fat resistors I soldered looks fantastic
I used a small chisel tip, high heat (800° F) and flux on all other components, and the rest of the job went very smoothly. I like the CLC PSU in my SissySIT, so I will go for a CLC PSU here too. Planning 35vdc Rails with one Antek 28v, 300va donut per channel.
Also like my SissySIT, I would like this amp to get the monoblock treatment. I will need heatsinks the size of a Modushop 5U Deluxe, so I may end up piecing these monoblocks together using parts from the diyaudio store.
I would like the inputs to be both RCA, and XLR to take advantage of the balanced outputs from my preamp. My thought is to use a switch to toggle the “short for SE in” to go between SE and Bal if I ever need to.
Confirming that the pin out for the XLR is, Pin 1 (shield) to GND, Pin 2 to In+ and Pin3 to In- ?
Tuesday and Friday are garbage pickup days. Wednesday is recycling. XLR is
pin 1 GND
pin 2 + hot
pin 3 - hot
I‘m getting there!
pin 1 GND
pin 2 + hot
pin 3 - hot
I‘m getting there!
Not exactly, the Pin 3 I would not call it "hot". 🙂
AFAIK The XLR Audio AES Industry Standard aka "Pin-2 Hot" is just as the following
PIN 1 - GND
PIN 2 - POSITIVE + (HOT)
PIN 3 - NEGATIVE - (COLD)
However not all devices follow the AES standard and sometimes the pins 2 and 3 polarities are inverted, so it is always needed to verify.
http://www.clarkwire.com/pinoutxlrbalanced.htm
https://www.scotaudio.com/wiring-htm
well, you're right ............ I know industry standard, but I also know that both positive and negative are humming when I gave them fingerpoke
only proper ones, where both are straight lead to xformer ......... then both are cold for fingerpoke
"hot" means signal on ZMEngrish
only proper ones, where both are straight lead to xformer ......... then both are cold for fingerpoke
"hot" means signal on ZMEngrish
👍
I take note. 😉
However I think that sometimes too much freedom may prove to be a double-edged sword.
Generally speaking my (very personal) view is for disambiguation. 🙂
