Babelfish M25, SissySIT - general building tips and tricks

[Juntuin]

little progress on Babelfish M25 -

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/att...25-sissysit-building-tips-tricks-img_8555-jpg

now I am to find a huge alutree to cut the case from.

btw: I' rather go with longer fins (7-10cm) than deeper case (< 35cm) by max 18cm height.
my M2 is only 30cm deep by 13.5cm height and goes only up to 60°Celsius.
I think that's within soa.
any objections?
cheers!
A.
ps: last picture of my powershot G9 (cmos died)

Hi,
You said that you are building M25, but looking at this photo reveals that there are couple of sissySit-only things going on?

 

[Attila I]

@Juntuin
if you have found any mistakes i made please share your knowledge.
all the best
A.

 

[Juntuin]

@Juntuin
if you have found any mistakes i made please share your knowledge.
all the best
A.

Hi,
I’m not 100% sure, but I would check if jumper wires are needed in M25 and double check diodes if there was other differences than ZD1 orientation (you have that correct) 🙂 but don’t trust blindly my word, I’m a newbie.

 

[Zen Mod]

everything is self-explanatory , if you look at schmtcs in post #1

left one is Babelfish M25 , right one is SissySIT

print them both and compare , if you want to see differences

if not - print just one which is of interest , and mount strictly just parts shown on schm

jumpers ( two tiny long wires) - put them in , no biggie - just do not mount small diodes not shown on schm

 

[Attila I]

dammit!
you got me there - i did blindly mount D4,5 and wirebridges.
thank you Juntuin and ZenMod.
not used to boards with options
kind regards
Attila

 

[Juntuin]

dammit!
you got me there - i did blindly mount D4,5 and wirebridges.
thank you Juntuin and ZenMod.
not used to boards with options
kind regards
Attila

No worries, just happy to help 🙂

 

[dewdrop]

Made a schoolboy mistake by not checking before I solder the components but the SMT were too close to the hole, given my poor eyesight, I cant see this a connection in the schematic, wondering if I need to rework to prevent a short to the CBL, ZM can you advise?

 

[Zen Mod]

0R is OK < it is in contact with JFet drains

that next - colored - resistor - leg looks lousy soldered

 

[dewdrop]

Yes sir, lol. Let me check the lousy solder again.

 

[dewdrop]

0R is OK < it is in contact with JFet drains

that next - colored - resistor - leg looks lousy soldered

Wait, is it ok or not ok?

 

[Zen Mod]

sorry , I wasn't clear

RbL is good
R5L - that leg close to JFet needs resoldering
CBL - you can omit it if you're not going to try Borbely WCF

 

[dewdrop]

Thanks ZM, let me check on the offensive leg.

 

[dewdrop]

Offensive leg is on it's own without touching anything. Safe to proceed. ;-)

 

[Zen Mod]

hope you re-touched it with solder , just in case

🙂

 

[Rush]

hope you re-touched it with solder , just in case

🙂

In other words, looks like a cold solder joint.

Rush

 

[dewdrop]

I did top and bottom, so it is safe but will touch up for ease of mind. Thanks for the suggestions!

Will take a while to build up because I still need to drill and tap in order to mount the boards on a non-UMS chassis.

 

[Juntuin]

Yippee, it’s working now! What a rocky road, including new but already broken voltage regulator that caused some big problems. Then my own mistake with BD139 and BD140 on other channel.
I want to thank ZM for patience, you are really helpful fellow 🙂

Happy now!

 

[Zen Mod]

sound?

 

[Juntuin]

Can’t analyze just yet, my ”better” speakers havent arrived yet and sold my Duevel Venus. I’ll let you know later!

 

[dBel84]

Yippee, it’s working now! What a rocky road, including new but already broken voltage regulator that caused some big problems. Then my own mistake with BD139 and BD140 on other channel.
I want to thank ZM for patience, you are really helpful fellow 🙂

Happy now!

congrats!! it is well worth the trouble