Another useful tool is a stepped drill bit. They come in various sizes and they are great for drill larger diameter holes. I have used them to drill holes to mount large diameter on-off switches and for cooling holes.
I use masking tape to cover the metal to protect the finish and to provide a surface to mark out the hole locations. A centre punch is used to put a dimple in the drill locations to accurately locate the drill bit and to keep the bit from wandering. With the dimple, the drill bit is accurately located even if the hole location is obscured by the drill guide.
I use masking tape to cover the metal to protect the finish and to provide a surface to mark out the hole locations. A centre punch is used to put a dimple in the drill locations to accurately locate the drill bit and to keep the bit from wandering. With the dimple, the drill bit is accurately located even if the hole location is obscured by the drill guide.
Plus 1 for stepped bit, they work very well. I was afraid they would be a jerky nightmare, but not so. Cut very smoothly between steps, even going all the way through the very last step if required.
Russellc
Yep. I got a heads up from the UPS tracking (address is registered at UPS) and the credit card charge (notifications are setup). Mind you this was several months back, but all my orders from them have worked out this way. Nice folks, great products.
BK
Making some great progress. 
ZM - The board layout and your instructions are excellent. Thank you! Made 2 dodo errors (Installed D2 instead of D5 on one board and swapped R16 and R19). Fixed after verifying against schematic and the BoM I made.
Question. I am attempting to follow very closely for the setting of the Pots during installation. I have R6 and R7 set referencing R4 (28ohms across) and R5 (0 Ohms across) accordingly. I have P2 set to mid point at 10k even though it is not too important.
I am struggling with how to set the 2K P1 pot. In post #603 ZM is very clear re: how to handle R6 and R7. Then it is mentioned for P1 - "confirmed with ohmeter...whichever way you find adequate".
Could someone provide guidance re: how to properly set P1 to 0 Ohms? I have not found it in the thread, so please forgive what is most likely an obvious question. I have not installed VR1 or anything further than the pots in ZMs guide in post 1.
Much appreciated!
ZM - The board layout and your instructions are excellent. Thank you! Made 2 dodo errors (Installed D2 instead of D5 on one board and swapped R16 and R19). Fixed after verifying against schematic and the BoM I made.
Question. I am attempting to follow very closely for the setting of the Pots during installation. I have R6 and R7 set referencing R4 (28ohms across) and R5 (0 Ohms across) accordingly. I have P2 set to mid point at 10k even though it is not too important.
I am struggling with how to set the 2K P1 pot. In post #603 ZM is very clear re: how to handle R6 and R7. Then it is mentioned for P1 - "confirmed with ohmeter...whichever way you find adequate".
Could someone provide guidance re: how to properly set P1 to 0 Ohms? I have not found it in the thread, so please forgive what is most likely an obvious question. I have not installed VR1 or anything further than the pots in ZMs guide in post 1.
Much appreciated!
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"whichever way you find adequate" was written taking in account possibility that pcbs are already on heatsink and that you're checking P1 fiddling with pins of neighbouring parts
that's usually tin foil hat time , needing some staring at goats and schematic , to decypher which parts and which leg of these are exactly connected to P1
in case when pcbs are still free to mingle in hands , simply put probes between solo pin and (now soldered together) pair of pins of P1
simple as that
that's usually tin foil hat time , needing some staring at goats and schematic , to decypher which parts and which leg of these are exactly connected to P1
in case when pcbs are still free to mingle in hands , simply put probes between solo pin and (now soldered together) pair of pins of P1
simple as that
really nothing of my own accomplishment
in reality , I'm mimicking Papa all the time
while he's mimicking Roger Corman
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ZM and Ben Mah - LOL!
ZM - I should have thanked you too for the reply in #951. Silly me didn't see it from the phone. I should have looked at the traces on both sides of the board... DOH!
I am starting to get a much better grasp of the goat whispering required to understand a schematic. A bit of reading online and a few classes is serving me well to start understanding. Who says old dogs can't learn new tricks.
As I learn, the DIYAudio community has my gratitude for helping me not blow up parts or burn down my house. That keeps a happy wife and happy life.
Next step is to finish up the boards, get a proper set of taps, and maybe get the tool or something similar Ben Mah mentioned in #940 to mount the SITs. Sadly, until I get a different / new chassis and build another PSU, the M2x boards will be giving up their home to the SissySIT for a short time.
I was reading the situation dBel84 had, so I need to be sure to check the rail voltages. My original plan was to just use the exact PSU from the M2x. However, from my M2x build notes, I was well over 25V unloaded. This circuit calls for 24V, and it seems to be sensitive to higher voltages, correct?
ZM - I should have thanked you too for the reply in #951. Silly me didn't see it from the phone. I should have looked at the traces on both sides of the board... DOH!
I am starting to get a much better grasp of the goat whispering required to understand a schematic.
A bit of reading online and a few classes is serving me well to start understanding. Who says old dogs can't learn new tricks.As I learn, the DIYAudio community has my gratitude for helping me not blow up parts or burn down my house. That keeps a happy wife and happy life.
Next step is to finish up the boards, get a proper set of taps, and maybe get the tool or something similar Ben Mah mentioned in #940 to mount the SITs. Sadly, until I get a different / new chassis and build another PSU, the M2x boards will be giving up their home to the SissySIT for a short time.
I was reading the situation dBel84 had, so I need to be sure to check the rail voltages. My original plan was to just use the exact PSU from the M2x. However, from my M2x build notes, I was well over 25V unloaded. This circuit calls for 24V, and it seems to be sensitive to higher voltages, correct?
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