Hello Claas
I have used smaller Molex before with good success in headphone amplifiers. I wasn't sure how robust these connectors would be so ordered a few options . This is Molex part number Part Number: 26-60-4023 which is KK 156 series. The wire inserts that match this assembly are 08-50-0105 and the female connector is 09-93-0200 ( I also bought 09-50-8020 but I prefer the other ) both would have worked equally well. The pin spacing on the board is perfect for the speaker outputs but the power input is slightly narrow - it fits with a little encouragement and once soldered, i straightened the pins .
I used the spades for my M2X but the spacing of the pins didn't work for the sissy board. I am sure with a little modification it would work but I wanted something that i could reliably plug in and remove while testing and if anything should ever go wrong.
I will try and if after I have tested it and everything is solid and I do not like this solution, I will solder the wires directly to the board
so many options 🙂
..dB
I have used smaller Molex before with good success in headphone amplifiers. I wasn't sure how robust these connectors would be so ordered a few options . This is Molex part number Part Number: 26-60-4023 which is KK 156 series. The wire inserts that match this assembly are 08-50-0105 and the female connector is 09-93-0200 ( I also bought 09-50-8020 but I prefer the other ) both would have worked equally well. The pin spacing on the board is perfect for the speaker outputs but the power input is slightly narrow - it fits with a little encouragement and once soldered, i straightened the pins .
I used the spades for my M2X but the spacing of the pins didn't work for the sissy board. I am sure with a little modification it would work but I wanted something that i could reliably plug in and remove while testing and if anything should ever go wrong.
I will try and if after I have tested it and everything is solid and I do not like this solution, I will solder the wires directly to the board
so many options 🙂
..dB
Dear dB:
Thanks for the quick and informative answer ! The current rating of the Molex KK certainly should suffice for power entry as well 🙂
Best regards,
Claas
Thanks for the quick and informative answer ! The current rating of the Molex KK certainly should suffice for power entry as well 🙂
Best regards,
Claas
I am 64 years old ..... for 50 years I am passionate about Music and self-construction. I have built so many amplifiers, preamps, DACs etc. etc ..... MY SissySIT, at the hands of the great ZM who pulled it out of the cylinder is making me enjoy an unprecedented listening. A real wonder. I had guessed the power .... but .... really ... I do not believe my ears .... for me the one of the most 'beautiful that I met.
YOU MUST BUILD IT and do it meticulously, calmly, carefully .... it will repay you.
ZenMod you're serious about the best
YOU MUST BUILD IT and do it meticulously, calmly, carefully .... it will repay you.
ZenMod you're serious about the best
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I met these projects when I had already built the Lightspeed for a couple of years ..... and I must say that I found them very interesting to the point of wanting to build one. Are the cards still available?
progress is slow and time is short but onward we plod
some fine art rendering in honour of ZM
and test fitting the connectors and power inlet
hopefully have the circuit tested by the end of the weekend
..dB
some fine art rendering in honour of ZM
and test fitting the connectors and power inlet
hopefully have the circuit tested by the end of the weekend
..dB
Quick question
I would typically build in a ground loop breaker something like Rod Elliot has on his forum
I have used the varistor as indicated in the standard FW psu - is there value in still adding the remaining elements ?
..dB
I would typically build in a ground loop breaker something like Rod Elliot has on his forum
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have used the varistor as indicated in the standard FW psu - is there value in still adding the remaining elements ?
..dB
Hi,
today arrived, some mountain bike parts. 🙂 Step for step .... :-| I think with this "heavy head" and a washer i can put some force to the screws.
today arrived, some mountain bike parts. 🙂 Step for step .... :-| I think with this "heavy head" and a washer i can put some force to the screws.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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The second of M4 (light blue marked).
I will cut them in the middle of the "t to the heat sinks" and put another from the other side, for isolation.
Hope you can understand what I mean.
P.S.: empty batteries for the keyboard :-(
I will cut them in the middle of the "t to the heat sinks" and put another from the other side, for isolation.
Hope you can understand what I mean.
P.S.: empty batteries for the keyboard :-(
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I ordered my shoulder washers for the THF-51S from Mouser when I ordered my power supply parts. So for those people needing shoulder washers and are also ordering from Mouser:
3105 Keystone Electronics | Mouser Canada
3105 Keystone Electronics | Mouser Canada
Off to cry my self asleep = my nightmare has become reality
both channels behave the exact same way, on power up there is an immediate surge in current across the 0.1R resistor ( >200mA in seconds) and the channel offset climbs to 13V before I kill power
as they are behaving so symmetrically, I must have made the same mistake in both
- triple checked P1 and P2 , they are 0R ( min resistance ) for P1 and P2 is in the middle.
.... now the not so simple task of finding it
another day 🙁
..dB
both channels behave the exact same way, on power up there is an immediate surge in current across the 0.1R resistor ( >200mA in seconds) and the channel offset climbs to 13V before I kill power
as they are behaving so symmetrically, I must have made the same mistake in both
- triple checked P1 and P2 , they are 0R ( min resistance ) for P1 and P2 is in the middle.
.... now the not so simple task of finding it
another day 🙁
..dB